Oceanologia No. 68 (2) / 26
Original Research Articles
-
Energy as a tool to study tsunami–bathymetry interaction: Zygmunt Kowalik
-
Seasonal and spatial variability of Fluorescent Dissolved Organic Matter in the southern Baltic Sea: Monika Zabłocka, Piotr Kowalczuk, Aleksandra Winogradow, Karol Kuliński
-
Glacial bay as a local hot spot for retention and accumulation of heavy metals transported with glacier meltwater (Hornsund, Svalbard): Blanka Pajda, Mateusz Moskalik, Agata Zaborska
-
The influence of seasonal hydrography and nutrient regimes on micro-phytoplankton assemblages in the coastal waters of Jeddah, central Red Sea: Reny Palliparambil Devassy, Vidyanandan Remadevi Shamji, Faisal Mana Alsaaq, Turki Metabe Alraddadi, Mohsen Mohamed El-Sherbiny
-
Barrier layer formation and dynamics in the Red Sea based on Argo profiles and sea level anomaly analysis: Hadeel A. Alsayed, Mohammed A. Alsaafani, Turki M. Alraddadi
-
Coupled current-wave simulation reveals sea surface heat fluxes responses to diurnal skin sea surface temperature modulation in the Sunda Strait: Eko Supriyadi, Tania June, Agus Saleh Atmadipoera, Andri Ramdhani
-
Seabed saturation conditions from in-situ measurements performed on Norderney: Waldemar Magda
-
Limited effect of the electromagnetic field associated with submarine power cables on the growth of the Baltic macroalgae: Magdalena Jakubowska-Lehrmann, Aleksandra Zgrundo, Daniel Czmajduch, Zbigniew Otremba
-
Characteristics of Malacca Strait Throughflow during Indian Ocean Dipole mode 2020–2024: Noir P. Purba, Martono Martono, Ghelby M. Faid, Hind Azidane, Raffy R. Alfarez, Muhammad H. Ilmi, Noor C.D. Aryanto
-
Semidiurnal and diurnal barotropic currents in the inner shelf and surf zone of the west coast of India: Measurements and modeling: Yadhunath E. M., Jaya Kumar Seelam, Subeesh M. P., Jai Singh, Luis Ryan
-
Reconstruction of the South Java Coastal Current during the Indian Ocean Dipole and El Niño Southern Oscillation from 1993 to 2023: Martono, Noir P. Purba, Heru Santoso, Yosef Prihanto, Amaliah Nurlatifah, Teguh Harjana, Edy Maryadi
Original Research Articles
Energy as a tool to study tsunami–bathymetry interaction
Oceanologia, 68 (2)/2026, 68201, 19 pp.
https://doi.org/10.5697/THCD1574
Zygmunt Kowalik
College of Fisheries and Ocean Sciences, University of Alaska, Fairbanks, Alaska, USA;
e-mail: zkowalik@alaska.edu (Z. Kowalik)
Keywords:
Tsunami; Kinetic and potential energy; Energy equilibrium; Reflection at depth discontinuity; Japan tsunami 2011;
Seamount tsunami interaction
Received: 10 April 2025; revised: 20 January 2026; accepted: 23 February 2026
Highlights
- Tsunami propagation and its interaction with bathymetry.
- Energy imbalance arises as varying depth disrupts tsunami energy equilibrium.
- Magnitude of imbalance depends on depth contrast between shallow and deep regions.
- Energy imbalance serves as the basis for defining a new reflection coefficient.
- Reexamination of tsunami through regions of kinetic or potential energy dominance.
Abstract
This study introduces a new framework for investigating tsunami propagation and its interaction with bathymetry by decomposing total energy into kinetic and potential components. Unlike conventional approaches based on wave amplitude or energy flux, this decomposition reveals local energy imbalances that arise when a tsunami interacts with variable bathymetry. These imbalances provide a new diagnostic tool for quantifying reflection and for distinguishing regions dominated by velocity (kinetic energy) or sea-level displacement (potential energy). The method is first tested in an idealized channel with a depth discontinuity. In addition to the expected incident, reflected, and transmitted waves, an imbalance between kinetic and potential energy emerges, with its magnitude controlled by the depth contrast. This imbalance forms the basis for defining a new reflection coefficient. The approach is then applied to the 2011 Japan Tōhoku Tsunami. Results show that kinetic and potential energies remain in equilibrium during long-distance propagation but diverge near major bathymetric features such as Koko Guyot Seamount and Hess Rise, where the imbalance depends on the relative depth between the seafloor and the seamount summit. Finally, an elliptical seamount model illustrates the limitations of the method and clarifies the conditions under which energy imbalance is most
relevant.
References
Abadie, S. M., Harris, J. C., Grilli, S. T., Fabre, R., 2012.
Numerical
modeling of tsunami waves generated by the flank collapse of the Cumbre Vieja
Volcano (La Palma, Canary Islands): Tsunami source and near field effects.
J. Geoph. Res. 117, C05030.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2011JC007646
Dutykh, D., Dias, F., 2009.
Energy of tsunami waves generated by bottom
motion. Proc. R. Soc. A. 465, 725–744.
https://doi.org/10.1098/rspa.2008.0182
Fine, I. V., Kulikov, E. A., Cherniawsky, J. Y., 2013.
Japan’s 2011
Tsunami: Characteristics of wave propagation from observations and numerical
modelling. Pure Appl. Geophys. 170, 1295–1307.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s00024-012-0555-8
Horrillo, J., Knight, W., Kowalik, Z., 2012.
Tsunami propagation over the
North Pacific: Dispersive and nondispersive models. Sci. Tsunami Hazards.
31 (3), 154–177.
Horrillo, J., Knight, W., Kowalik, Z., 2021.
Numerical Modeling of Tsunami
Waves. Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering, World Sci. Publ., Singapore,
412 pp.
https://doi.org/10.1142/12421
Kim, D-H., Son, S., 2018.
Lagrangian-like volume tracking paradigm for
mass, momentum and energy of nearshore tsunamis and damping mechanism.
Sci. Rep. 8 (1), 14183–14194.
https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-018-32439-6
Koshimura, S., Hayashi, Y., Munemoto, K., Imamura, F., 2008.
Effect of the
Emperor seamounts on trans-oceanic propagation of the 2006 Kuril Island
earthquake tsunami. Geophys. Res. Lett. 35, L02611.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2007GL032129
Kowalik, Z., Knight, W., Logan, T., Whitmore, P., 2005.
Numerical modeling
of the global tsunami: Indonesian tsunami of 26 December 2004. Sci.
Tsunami Haz. 23 (1), 40–56.
Kowalik, Z., 2008.
Energy flux as a tool in locating tsunami secondary
sources. Sci. Tsunami Haz. 27 (3), 1–29.
Kowalik, Z., Horrillo, J., Knight, W., Logan, T., 2008.
Kuril Islands
tsunami of November 2006: 1. Impact at Crescent City by distant
scattering. J. Geophys. Res. 113, C01020.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2007JC004402
Kowalik, Z., Murty, T.S., 1993.
Numerical Modeling of Ocean Dynamics,
World Sci. Publ., Singapore, 481 pp.
https://doi.org/10.1142/1970
Lamb, H., 1945.
Hydrodynamic, 6th edn., Dover Publ., New York, 738 pp.
Levin, B.W., Nosov, M., 2015.
Physics of Tsunamis, Springer Internat.
Publ., 388 pp.
https://books.google.com/books?id=CADOCgAAQBAJ
Li, Y., 2000.
Tsunamis: Non-Breaking and Breaking Solitary Wave
Run-Up. Caltech, Pasadena, 219 pp.
https://doi.org/10.7907/Z9G44N7F
Lopez-Venegas, A.M., Horrillo, J., Pampell-Manis, A., Huerfano, V., Mercado,
A., 2014.
Advanced tsunami numerical simulations and energy considerations
by use of 3D–2D coupled models: The October 11, 1918, Mona Passage
Tsunami. Pure Appl. Geophys. 172, 1679–1698.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s00024-014-0988-3
Marchuk., An. G., 2022.
Capturing of the tsunami wave energy by
islands. Bull. Nov. Comp. Center, Math. Model. Geoph., 24, 15–25.
Mei, C.C., Stiassnie, M., Yue, D.K.-P., 2005.
Theory and Applications of
Ocean Surface Waves, Part 1: Linear Aspects, World Scientific, Advanced
Series on Ocean Engineering, Singapore, 506 pp.
https://doi.org/10.1142/5566
Mofjeld, H.O., Titov, V.V., Gonzalez, F.I., Newman, J.C., 2000.
Analytic
Theory of Tsunami Wave Scattering in the Open Ocean with Application to the
North Pacific. NOAA Technical Memorandum OAR PMEL-116, Seattle, 38 pp.
Mofjeld, H.O., Titov, V.V., Gonzalez, F.I., Newman, J.C., 2001.
Tsunami
scattering provinces in the Pacific Ocean. Geoph. Res. Letters. 28,
335–338.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2000GL011710
Munk, W.H., 1963.
Some comments regarding diffusion and absorption of
tsunamis. [In:] Cox, D.C., (Ed.), Proc. Tsunami Meetings Associated with
the Tenth Pacific Science Congress, Honolulu, Hawaii, Aug.-Sept. 1961. IUGG
Monograph, Paris, 53–72.
Nekrasov, A.V., 1992.
On tidal energy horizontal circulation. J.
Korean Soc. Coast. Ocean Eng. 4 (3), 168–177.
Okada, Y., 1985.
Surface deformation due to shear and tensile faults in a
half-space. Bull. Seismol. Soc. Am. 75, 1135–1154.
Okal, E. A., 2021.
The energy of a tsunami generated by dynamic uplift of
the ocean bottom. I. Analytical solutions. Pure Appl. Geophys. 178,
4985–4999.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s00024-021-02804-0
Rabinovich, A.B., Candella, R.N., Thomson, R.E., 2013.
The open ocean
energy decay of three recent trans-Pacific tsunamis. Geoph. Res. Letters.
40 (12), 3157–3162.
https://doi.org/10.1002/grl.50625
Tang, L., Titov, V. V., Bernard, E.N., Wei, Y., Chamberlin, C.D., Newman, J.C.,
Mofjeld, H.O., Arcas, D., Eble, M.C., Moore, C., Uslu, B., Pells, C., Spillane,
M., Wright, L., Gica, E., 2012.
Direct energy estimation of the 2011 Japan
Tsunami using deep-ocean pressure measurements. J. Geoph. Res. 117,
C08008.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2011JC007635
Yoon, S.B., Kim, S.C., Baek, U., Bae, J.S., 2014.
Effect of bathymetry on
propagation of tsunamis towards the East Coast of Korea. [In:] Green,
A.N., Cooper, J.A.G. (Eds.), Proceedings 13th International Coastal Symposium
(Durban, South Africa), J. Coast. Res., Sp. Iss. 70, 332–337.
Zhao, X., Wang, B., Liu, H., 2012.
Characteristics of tsunami motion and
energy budget during runup and rundown processes over a plane beach.
Physics of Fluids. 24 (6), 062107.
https://doi.org/10.1063/1.4729597
Seasonal and spatial variability of Fluorescent Dissolved Organic Matter in the southern Baltic Sea
Oceanologia, 68 (2)/2026, 68202, 28 pp.
https://doi.org/10.5697/RQTA2991
Monika Zabłocka*, Piotr Kowalczuk, Aleksandra Winogradow, Karol Kuliński
Institute of Oceanology, Polish Academy of Sciences, Powstańców Warszawy 55, 81–712 Sopot, Poland;
e-mail: monika_z@iopan.pl (M. Zabłocka)
*corresponding author
Keywords:
Fluorescent Dissolved Organic Matter (FDOM); Chromophoric Dissolved Organic Matter (CDOM); Gulf of Gdańsk; Parallel Factor Analysis (PARAFAC)
Received: 2 April 2025; revised: 28 November 2025; accepted: 16 December 2025
Highlights
- Unique long-term in situ FDOM dataset from the Polish waters of the Baltic Sea
- Spatial and seasonal variability in the composition of FDOM in the Baltic Sea
- Humic-like components contributed between 61% and 96% of the total fluorescence in the Gulf of Gdańsk
- Porewater enrichment of humic-like substances in the bottom waters of the Baltic Sea
- Seasonal peak of protein-like fluorescence in the open waters of the Southern Baltic Sea
Abstract
This study presents a comprehensive analysis of Fluorescent (FDOM) and Chromophoric (CDOM) Dissolved Organic Matter in the southern Baltic Sea, enhancing our understanding of its composition, sources, and dynamics in a semi-enclosed marine system. The Baltic Sea’s unique hydrography and strong freshwater inflow served as a natural laboratory for investigating interactions between terrestrial and marine Dissolved Organic Matter (DOM). We examined spatial and seasonal variations of CDOM and FDOM, using absorption and fluorescence spectroscopy combined with parallel factor analysis (PARAFAC). Six fluorophore groups (C1–C6) were identified, with humic-like components (C1–C3, C5) of terrestrial and marine origin dominating the FDOM composition. Protein-like components (C4, C6) were more prominent in Open Waters (OW), particularly in late summer and fall. Humic-like fluorescence intensity (Ih) contributed 61–96% to total fluorescence (Itot). The total fluorescence intensity was much higher in the Gulf and Coastal Waters, GCW than in the Open Waters (OW) of the Baltic Sea. The vertical distributions of FDOM varied by region. In the Open Baltic Deep Waters (OBDW) the highest Ih values were observed near the bottom, likely resulting from diffusion of DOM from sediments, and the lowest at the surface. In the Gulf of Gdańsk Deep Waters (GGDW) Ih was the lowest in the Baltic Sea Winter Water (BSWW). Ip was the highest at the surface and the weakest at the bottom, in both areas.
This study offers new insight into the spatial, seasonal, and vertical behavior of FDOM and underscores its sensitivity to environmental conditions.
References
Babin, M., Stramski, D., Ferrari, G.M., Claustre, H., Bricaud, A., Obolensky,
G., Hoepffner, N., 2003.
Variations in the light absorption coefficients of
phytoplankton, nonalgal particles, and dissolved organic matter in coastal
waters around Europe. J. Geophys. Res. 108 (C7), 3211.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2001JC000882
Berthon, J.-F., Zibordi, G., 2010.
Optically black waters in the northern
Baltic Sea Geophys. Res. Lett. 37 (9), L09605.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2010GL043227
Cahill. B.E., Kowalczuk, P., Kritten, L., Gräwe, U., Wilkin, J., Fischer, J.,
2023.
Estimating the seasonal impact of optically significant water
constituents on surface heating rates in the western Baltic Sea.
Biogeosciences, 20 (13), 2743–2768.
https://doi.org/10.5194/bg-20-2743-2023
Carder, K.L., Chen, F.R., Lee, Z.P., Hawes, S.K., Kamykowski, D., 1999.
Semianalityc moderate-resolution imaging spectrometer algorithms for
chlorophyll a and absorption with bio-optical domains based on
nitrate-depletion temperatures. J. Geophys. Res. 104, C3, 5403–5421.
https://doi.org/10.1029/1998JC900082
Carder, K.L., Steward, R.G., Harvey, G.R., Ortner, P.B., 1989.
Marine humic
and fulvic acids: Their effects on remote sensing of ocean chlorophyll.
Limnol. Oceanogr. 34, 68–81.
https://doi.org/10.4319/lo.1989.34.1.0068
Catalá, T.S., Álvarez-Salgado, X.A., Otero, J., Iuculano, F., Companys, B.,
Horstkotte, B., 2016.
Drivers of fluorescent dissolved organic matter in
the global epipelagic ocean. Limnol. Oceanogr. 61 (3), 1101–1119.
Coble, P.G., 1996.
Characterization of marine and terrestrial DOM in
seawater using excitation – emission matrix spectroscopy. Mar. Chem. 51,
325–346.
https://doi.org/10.1016/0304-4203(95)00062-3
Drozdowska, V., 2007a.
Seasonal and spatial variability of surface seawater
fluorescence properties in the Baltic and Nordic Seas: results of lidar
experiments. Oceanologia, 49 (1), 59–69.
Drozdowska, V., 2007b,
The lidar investigation of the upper water layer
fluorescence spectra of the Baltic Sea. Eur. Phys. J. Spec. Top. 144,
141–145.
https://doi.org/10.1140/epjst/e2007-00118-7
Drozdowska, V., Kowalczuk, P., Konik, M., Dzierzbicka-Glowacka, L., 2018.
Study on Different Fractions of Organic Molecules in the Baltic Sea Surface
Microlayer by Spectrophoto – and Spectrofluorimetric Methods. Front.
Mar. Sci. Marine Biogeochem. 5.
https://doi.org/10.3389/fmars.2018.00456
Ferrari, G., Dowell, M., 1998.
CDOM absorption characteristics with
relation to fluorescence and salinity in coastal areas of the southern Baltic
Sea. Estuar. Coast. Shelf S. 47 (1) 91–105.
https://doi.org/10.1006/ecss.1997.0309
Ferrari, G., Tassan, S., 1991.
On the accuracy of determining light
absorption by “yellow substance” through measurement of induced
fluorescence. Limnol. Oceanogr. 36 (4), 777–786.
https://doi.org/10.4319/lo.1991.36.4.0777
Friedlingstein, P., O’Sullivan, M., Jones, M.W., et al., 2025.
Global
Carbon Budget 2024. Earth Sys. Sci. Data, 16 (8), 965–1039.
https://doi.org/10.5194/essd-17-965-2025
Grzybowski, W., 2000.
Effect of short-term sunlight irradiation on
absorbance spectra of chromophoric organic matter dissolved in coastal and
riverine water. Chemosphere, 40, 1313–1318.
https://doi.org/10.1016/S0045-6535(99)00266-0
Hansell, D.A, Carlson, C.A., 2001.
Marine Dissolved Organic Matter and the
Carbon Cycle. Oceanography, 14 (4), 41–49.
https://doi.org/10.5670/oceanog.2001.05
Hansell, D.A., 2013.
Recalcitrant Dissolved Organic Carbon Fractions.
Annu. Rev. Mar. Sci. 5, 421–445.
https://doi.org/10.1146/annurev-marine-120710-100757
Hansell, D.A, Carlson, C.A., Repeta, D.J., Schliitzer, R., 2009.
Dissolved
organic matter in the ocean: new insights stimulated by a controversy.
Oceanography, 22, 52–61.
https://doi.org/10.5670/oceanog.2009.97
Harshman, R.A., 1984.
How can I know if it’s real? A catalog of
diagnostics for use with three-model factor analysis and multidimensional
scaling. [In:] Law H.G, Snyder Jr. C.W., Hattie J.A., McDonald R. (Eds.),
Research Methods for multimode data analysis. Preager, New York, 566–591.
Harvey, E.T., Kratzer, S., Andersson, A., 2015.
Relationships between
colored dissolved organic matter and dissolved organic carbon in different
coastal gradients of the Baltic Sea. Ambio 44 (Suppl. 3), 392–401.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s13280-015-0658-4
Højerslev, N.K., Aas, E., 1991,
A relationship for the penetration of
ultraviolet Bradiation into the Norwegian Sea, J. Geophys. Res. 96,
17003–17005.
https://doi.org/10.1029/91JC01822
Huguet, A., Vacher, L., Relexans, S., Saubusse, S., Froidefond, J.M., Parlanti,
E., 2009.
Properties of fluorescent dissolved organic matter in the Gironde
estuary. Org. Geochem. 40 (6), 706–719.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.orggeochem.2009.03.002
IMGW-PIB (Institute of Meteorology and Water Management – National Research
Institute), 2023.
Hydrological data – Vistula River discharge
(2008–2013). Retrieved from
https://danepubliczne.imgw.pl
[Accessed: 30 Sep 2025].
Jerlov, N.G., 1976.
Marine Optics. Elsevier Oceanography Series,
Elsevier, Amsterdam, 230 pp.
Jiao, N., Herndl, G.J., Hansell, D.A., Benner, R., Kattner G., Wilhelm, S.W.,
Kirchman, D.L., Weinbauer, M.G., Luo, T., Chen F., Azam, F., 2010.
Microbial production of recalcitrant dissolved organic matter: long-term
carbon storage in the global ocean. Nat Rev Microbiol. 8 (8), 593–599.
https://doi.org/10.1038/nrmicro2386
Jiao, N., Herndl, G.J., Hansell, D.A., Benner, R., Kattner, G., Wilhelm, S.W.,
2011.
The microbial carbon pump and the oceanic recalcitrant dissolved
organic matter pool. Nat. Rev. Microbiol. 9, 555–555.
https://doi.org/10.1038/nrmicro2386-c5
Jørgensen, L., Stedmon, C.A., Kragh, T., Markager, S., Middelboe, M.,
Sondergaard, M., 2011.
Global trends in the fluorescence characteristics
and distribution of marine dissolved organic matter. Mar. Chem. 126,
139–148.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.marchem.2011.05.001
Kowalczuk, P., 1999,
Seasonal variability of yellow substance absorption in
the surface layer of the Baltic Sea. J. Geophys. Res. 104 (C12),
30047–30058.
https://doi.org/10.1029/1999JC900198
Kowalczuk, P., Durako, M.J., Young, H., Kahn, A.E., Cooper, W.J., Gonsior, M.,
2009.
Characterization of dissolved organic matter fluorescence in the
South Atlantic bight with use of PARAFAC model: interannual variability.
Mar. Chem. 113, 182–196. h
ttps://doi.org/10.1016/j.marchem.2009.01.015
Kowalczuk, P., Olszewski, J., Darecki, M., Kaczmarek, S.M., 2005a.
Empirical relationship between coloured dissolved organic matter (CDOM)
absorption and apparent optical properties in Baltic Sea waters. Int. J.
Remote Sens. 26, 2, 345–370.
https://doi.org/10.1080/01431160410001720270
Kowalczuk, P., Sagan, S., Olszewski, J., Darecki, M., Hapter, R., 1999.
Seasonal changes in selected optical parameters in the Pomeranian Bay in
1996–1997. Oceanologia 41 (3), 309–334.
Kowalczuk, P., Sagan, S., Zabłocka, M., Borzycka, K., 2015.
Mixing anomaly
in deoxygenated Baltic Sea deeps indicates benthic flux and microbial
transformation of chromophoric and fluorescent dissolved organic matter.
Estuar. Coast. Shelf Sci. 163, Pt. B, 206–217.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ecss.2015.06.027
Kowalczuk, P., Stedmon, C.A., Markager, S., 2006,
Modeling absorption by
CDOM in the Baltic Sea from season, salinity and chlorophyll. Mar. Chem.
101, 1–11.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.marchem.2005.12.005
Kowalczuk, P., Stoń-Egiert, J., Cooper, W.J., Whitehead, R.F., Duralo, M.J.,
2005b.
Characterization of chromophoric dissolved organic matter (CDOM) in
the Baltic Sea by excitation emission fluorescence spectroscopy. Mar.
Chem. 96 (3–4), 273–292. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.marchem.2005.03.002
Kowalczuk, P., Tilstone, G.H., Zabłocka, M., Röttgers, R., Thomas, R., 2013,
Composition of dissolved organic matter along an Atlantic Meridional
Transect from fluorescence spectroscopy and Parallel Factor Analysis. Mar.
Chem., 157, 170–184.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.marchem.2013.10.004
Kowalczuk, P., Zabłocka, M., Sagan, S., Kuliński, K., 2010.
Fluorescence
measured in situ as a proxy of CDOM absorption and DOC concentration in the
Baltic Sea. Oceanologia 52 (3), 431–471.
https://doi.org/10.5697/oc.52-3.431
Kratzer, S., Moore, G., 2018.
Inherent optical properties of the Baltic Sea
in comparison to other seas and ocean. Remote Sens. 10 (418).
https://doi.org/10.3390/rs10030418
Leppäranta, M., Myrberg, K., 2009.
Physical Oceanography of the Baltic
Sea. Springer , Chichester, UK, 378 pp.
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-540-79703-6
Loginova, A.N., Wunsch, U., Zabłocka, M., Cherkasheva, A., Szymczycha, B.,
Kuliński, K., Winogradow, A., Kowalczuk, P., 2024.
Qualitative
variability of dissolved organic matter in the Baltic Sea sediments apparent
from fluxes and optical properties. Front. Mar. Sci. 11, 1433199.
http://doi.org/10.3389/fmars.2024.1433199
Lønborg, C., Carreira, C., Abril, G., et al., 2024.
A global database of
dissolved organic matter (DOM) concentration measurements in coastal waters
(CoastDOM v1). Earth System Science Data.
https://doi.org/10.5194/essd-16-1107-2024
Lønborg, C., Fuentes-Santos, I.F., Carreira, C., et al., 2025.
Dissolved
Organic Carbon in Coastal Waters: Global Patterns, Stocks and Environmental
Physical Controls. Global Biogeochem. Cy. 39 (5), e2024GB008407.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2024GB008407
Lønborg, C., Carreira, C., Jickells, T., Álvarez-Salgado, X.A., 2020.
Impacts of Global Change on Ocean Dissolved Organic Carbon (DOC)
Cycling. Front. Marine Sci., 7, 466.
https://doi.org/10.3389/fmars.2020.00466
Meler, J., Woźniak, S.B., Stoń-Egiert, J., Woźniak, B.,
2018.
Parametrization of phytoplankton spectral absorption coefficient in
the Baltic Sea: general, monthly and two-component variants of approximation
formulas. Ocean. Sci., 14, 1523–1545.
https://doi.org/10.5194/os-14-1523-2018
Makarewicz, A., Kowalczuk, P., Sagan, S., Granskog, M.A., Pavlov, A.K., Zdun,
A., Borzycka, K., Zabłocka, M., 2018.
Characteristics of chromophoric and
fluorescent dissolved organic matter in the Nordic Seas. Ocean Sci., 14,
543–562.
https://doi.org/10.5194/os-14-543-2018
Moran, M.A., Sheldon, W.M., Zepp, R.G., 2000.
Carbon loss and optical
property changes during long-term photochemical and biological degradation of
estuarine dissolved organic matter. Limnol. Oceanogr. 45, 1254–1264.
https://doi.org/10.4319/lo.2000.45.6.1254
Murphy, K.R., Buttler, K.D., Spencer, R.G.M., Stedmon, C.A., Boehme, J.R.,
Aiken, G.R., 2010.
Measurements of Dissolved Organic Matter Fluorescence in
Aquatic Environments: An Interlaboratory Comparison. Environ. Sci.
Technol., 44, 9405–9412.
https://doi.org/10.1021/es102362t
Murphy, K.R., Stedmon, C.A., Graeber, D., Bro, R., 2013.
Fluorescence spectroscopy and multi-way techniques. PARAFAC. Anal. Methods, 5,
6557–6566.
https://www.google.com/search?q=https://doi.org/10.1039/C3AY41160E
Murphy, K.R., Stedmon, C.A., Waite, T.D., Ruiz, G.M., 2008.
Distinguishing between terrestrial and autochthonous organic matter sources in marine environments using fluorescence spectroscopy. Mar. Chem., 108, 40–58.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.marchem.2007.10.003
Murphy, K.R., Stedmon, C.A., Wenig, P., Bro, R., 2014.
OpenFluor-A spectral
database of auto-fluorescence by organic compounds in the environment.
Anal. Methods-UK, 6, 658–661.
https://doi.org/10.1039/C3AY41935E
Nelson, B.N., Siegel, D.A., Carlson, C.A., Swan, C.M., 2010.
Tracing global
biogeochemical cycles and meridional overturning circulation using chromophoric
dissolved organic matter. Geophys. Res. Lett. 37, L03610.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2009GL042325
Nelson, B.N., Siegel, D.A., 2013.
The Global Distribution and Dynamics of
Chromophoric Dissolved Organic Matter. Annu. Rev. Mar. Sci. 5, 447–476.
https://doi.org/10.1146/annurev-marine-120710-100751
Olszewski, J., Sagan, S., Darecki, M., 1992.
Spatial and temporal chan ges
in some optical parameters in the southern Baltic. Oceanologia, 33,
87–103.
Osburn, C.L., Stedmon, C.A., 2011.
Linking the chemical and optical
properties of dissolved organic matter in the Baltic-North Sea transition zone
to differentiate three allochtonus inputs. Mar. Chem. 126 (1–4),
281–294.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.marchem.2011.06.007
Opsahl, S., Benner, R., 1997.
Distribution and cycling of terrigenous
dissolved organic matter in the ocean. Nature 386, 480–482.
https://doi.org/10.1038/386480a0
Roesler, C.S., Barnard, A., 2013.
Optical proxy for phytoplankton biomass
in the absence of photophysiology: Rethinking the absorption line height.
Method. Oceanogr. 7, 79–94.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.mio.2013.12.003
Sagan, S., 1991.
Transmisja światła w wodach południowego Bałtyku.
Rozpr. Monogr. 2/1991, Institute of Oceanology Polish Academy of Science,
Sopot, 149 pp.
Sagan, S., 2008.
Rzeczywiste właściwości optyczne wód Bałtyku.
Rozpr. Monogr. 21/2008, Institute of Oceanology Polish Academy of Science,
Sopot, 244 pp.
Schmidt, B., Wodzinowski, T., Bulczak, A.I., 2021.
Longterm variability of near-bottom oxygen, temperature, and salinity in the Southern Baltic. J. Marine Syst. 213, 103462.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jmarsys.2020.103462
Sharp, J.M., 2002.
Analytical methods for total DOM pools. [In:]
Hansell, D.A., Carlson, C.A., (Eds.), Biogeochemistry of Marine Dissolved
Organic Matter. Elsevier Science, San Diego, 35–58.
Simis, S.G.H., YloÈstalo, P., Kallio, K.Y., Spilling, K., Kutser, T., 2017.
Contrasting seasonality in optical-biogeochemical properties of the Baltic
Sea. PLoS ONE 12 (4), e0173357.
https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0173357
Stedmon, C.A., Bro, R., 2008.
Characterizing dissolved organic matter
fluorescence with parallel factor analysis: a tutorial. Limnol. Oceanogr.
Methods, 6, 572–579.
https://doi.org/10.4319/lom.2008.6.572
Stedmon, C.A., Markager, S., 2001.
The optics of chromophoric dissolved organic matter (CDOM) in the Greenland Sea: An algorithm for differentiation between marine and terrestrially derived organic matter. Limnol. Oceanogr.
46 (8), 2087–2093.
https://doi.org/10.4319/lo.2001.46.8.2087
Stedmon, C.A., Markager, S., 2003.
Behaviour of the Optical Properties of
Coloured Dissolved Organic Matter Under Conservative Mixing. Estuar.
Coast. Shelf Sci. 57, 973–979.
https://doi.org/10.1016/S0272-7714(03)00003-9
Stedmon, C.A., Markager, S., 2005.
Tracing the production and degradation of autochthonous fractions of dissolved organic matter by fluorescence analysis. Limnol. Oceanogr. 50 (5), 1415–1426.
https://doi.org/10.4319/lo.2005.50.5.1415
Stedmon, C.A., Markager, S., Bro, R., 2003.
Tracing dissolved organic matter in aquatic environments using a new approach to fluorescence
spectroscopy. Mar. Chem. 82 (3–4), 239–254.
https://doi.org/10.1016/S0304-4203(03)00072-0
Stedmon, C.A., Markager, S., Kaas, H., 2000.
Optical properties and signatures of Chromophoric Dissolved Organic Matter (CDOM) in Danish Coastal waters. Estuar. Coast. Shelf. Sci. 51, 267–278.
https://doi.org/10.1006/ecss.2000.0646
Stedmon, C.A., Markager, S., Tranvic, L., Kronberg, L., Slätis, T., Martinsen, W., 2007.
Photochemical production of ammonium and
transformation of dissolved organic matter in the Baltic Sea. Mar. Chem. 104, 227–240.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.marchem.2006.11.005
Stedmon, C.A., Nelson, N.B., 2015.
Chapter 10 – The optical properties of
DOM in the ocean. [In:] Hansell, D.A., Carlson, C.A. (Eds.),
Biogeochemistry of Marine Dissolved Organic Matter, 2nd Edn., Acad. Press,
Boston, 481–508.
https://doi.org/10.1016/B978–0-12–405940–5.00010–8
Stedmon, C.A., Osburn, C.L., Kragh, T., 2010.
Tracing water mass mixing in
the Baltic–North Sea transition zone using the optical properties of coloured
dissolved organic matter. Estuar. Coast. Shelf Sci. 87, 156–162.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ecss.2009.12.022
Terzić, E., Zabłocka, M., Loginova, A.N., Kowalczuk, P., 2024.
Estimation of net and removal of fluorescent dissolved organic matter in
different Baltic Sea water masses. Front. Mar. Sci. 11.
https://doi.org/10.3389/fmars.2024.1379604
Vähätalo, A.V., Wetzel, R.G., 2008
. Long-term photochemical and
microbial decomposition of wetland-derived dissolved organic matter with
alteration of 13C:12C mass ratio. Limnol. Oceanogr. 53, 1387–1392.
https://doi.org/10.4319/lo.2008.53.4.1387
Wagner, S., Schubotz, F., Kaiser, K., Hallmann, C., Waska, H., Rossel, P.E.,
Hansman, R., Elvert, M., Middelburg, J.J., Engel, A., Blattmann, T.M.,
Catalá, T.S , Lennartz, S.T., Gomez-Saez, G.V., Pantoja-Gutiérrez, S., Bao,
R., Galy, V., 2020.
Soothsaying DOM: A Current Perspective on the Future of
Oceanic Dissolved Organic Carbon. Front. Mar. Sci. 7, 341.
https://doi.org/10.3389/fmars.2020.00341
Weishaar, J.L., Aiken, G.R., Bergamaschi, B.A., Fram, M.S., Fujii, R., Mopper,
K., 2003.
Evaluation of Specific Ultraviolet Absorbance as an Indicator of
the Chemical Composition and Reactivity of Dissolved Organic Carbon.
Environ. Sci. Technol. 37 (20), 4702–4708.
https://doi.org/10.1021/es030360x
Xie, H., Aubry, C., Bélanger, S., Song, G., 2014.
The dynamics of
absorption coefficients of CDOM and particles in the St. Lawrence estuarine
system: Biogeochemical and physical implications. Mar. Chem. 128.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.marchem.2011.10.001
Yamashita, Y., Tsukasaki, A., Nishida, T., Tanoue, E., 2007.
Vertical and
horizontal distribution of fluorescent dissolved organic matter in the Southern
Ocean. Mar. Chem. 106, 498–509.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.marchem.2007.05.004
Zabłocka, M., Kowalczuk, P., Stoń-Egiert, J., Terzić, E., Bournaka, E.,
Palacz, A.P, 2025
. Tracing theorigins and transformations of fluorescence
dissolved organic matter within western and eastern Greenland’s shelves: a
comparative study. Front. Mar. Sci. 11.
https://doi.org/10.3389/fmars.2024.1476768
Zsolnay, A., Baigar, E., Jimenez, M., Steinweg, B., Saccomandi, F., 1999.
Differentiating with fluorescence spectroscopy the sources of dissolved
organic matter in soils subjected to drying. Chemosphere, 38 (1), 45–50.
https://doi.org/10.1016/S0045-6535(98)00166-0
Glacial bay as a local hot spot for retention and accumulation of heavy metals transported with glacier meltwater (Hornsund, Svalbard)
Oceanologia, 68 (2)/2026, 68203, 12 pp.
https://doi.org/10.5697/10.5697/WCPQ5217
Blanka Pajda1, Mateusz Moskalik2, Agata Zaborska*,1
1Institute of Oceanology, Polish Academy of Sciences, Powstańców Warszawy 55, 81-712 Sopot, Poland;
e-mail: agata@iopan.pl (A. Zaborska)
2Institute of Geophysics, Polish Academy of Sciences, Księcia Janusza 64, 01-452 Warsaw, Poland
*corresponding author
Keywords:
Heavy metals; Pollutants; Melting glaciers; SPM; Glacial bays
Received: 3 September 2024; revised: 18 December 2025; accepted: 22 December 2025
Highlights
- A high portion of the heavy metals adsorbed on the suspension is deposited in Hansbukta
- The presence of an underwater sill plays a crucial role in trapping pollutants
- This is relevant for all glacial bays where seawater exchange is limited by a sill
- Further research on heavy metal-enhanced sedimentation in semi-closed bays is needed
Abstract
In this study, we aim to understand the influence of an underwater sill on the fate of suspended particulate material (SPM) discharged by a melting tidewater glacier in an Arctic glacial bay. We examined the potential significance of SPM retention for the bay’s environment by analysing the fate of heavy metals introduced by glacier meltwater. Semi-enclosed bays with sills can not only limit water exchange but also act as effective traps for SPM and, consequently, for components, e.g., pollutants adsorbed onto these particles. Enhanced deposition of particulate pollutants can locally pose a threat to the ecosystem. We focus on Hansbukta, a glacial bay in Hornsund Fjord (Svalbard) that receives freshwater from the rapidly melting Hansbreen, a tidewater glacier. We analysed suspended particulate matter (SPM) concentrations and associated heavy metal content in six ablation seasons (2015–2020). Our results reveal seasonal variability in SPM and metal concentrations. In most months, over half of the analysed elements discharged with glacier meltwater remain in the bay. It was concluded that Hansbukta, which is isolated from the main fjord basin by an underwater sill, acts as a trap for metals and possibly other pollutants.
References
AMAP, 1998.
AMAP assessment report: Arctic pollution issues, XII,
Oslo, Norway, 859 pp.
Ardini, F., Bazzano, A., Rivaro, P., Soggia, F., Terol, A., Grotti, M., 2016.
Trace elements in marine particulate and surface sediments of Kongsfjorden,
Svalbard Islands. Rendiconti Lincei 27(S1), 183–190.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s12210-016-0524-8
Arntsen, M., Sundfjord, A., Skogseth, R., Błaszczyk, M., Promińska, A.,
2019.
Inflow of warm water to the inner Hornsund fjord, Svalbard: Exchange
mechanisms and influence on local sea ice cover and glacier front melting.
J. Geophys.Res.-Oceans 124, 1915–1931.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2018JC014315
Bao, W., Moffat, C., 2023.
Impact of shallow sills on heat transport and
stratification regimes in proglacial fjords. The Cryosphere Discuss.
[preprint]
https://doi.org/10.5194/tc-2023-32
Bao, W., Moffat, C., 2024.
Impact of shallow sills on circulation regimes
and submarine melting in glacial fjords. The Cryosphere 18, 187–203.
https://doi.org/10.5194/tc-18-187-2024
Bazzano, A., Rivaro, P., Soggia, F., Ardini, F., Grotti, M., 2014.
Anthropogenic and natural sources of particulate trace Glacial bay as a
local hot spot for retention and accumulation of heavy metals transported with
glacier … 10/12 elements in the coastal marine environment of
Kongsfjorden. Svalbard. Marine Chem. 163, 28–35.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.marchem.2014.04.001
Bazzano, A., Ardini, F., Terol, A., Rivaro, P., Soggia, F., Grotti, M., 2017.
Effects of the Atlantic water and glacial runoff on the spatial
distribution of particulate trace elements in the Kongsfjorden. Marine
Chem. 191, 16–23.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.marchem.2017.02.007
Biskaborn, B. K., Smith, S. L., Noetzli, J., Matthes, et al., 2019.
Permafrost is warming at a global scale. Nature Communicat. 10(1).
https://doi.org/10.1038/s41467-018-08240-4
Błaszczyk, M., Jania, J., Hagen, J. O., 2009.
Tidewater glaciers of
Svalbard: recent changes and estimates of calving fluxes. Polish Polar
Res. 30(2), 85–142.
Błaszczyk, M., Jania, J. A., Kolondra, L., 2013.
Fluctuations of tidewater
glaciers in Hornsund Fjord (Southern Svalbard) since the beginning of the 20th
century. Polish Polar Res. 34(4), 327–352.
https://doi.org/10.2478/popore-2013-0024
Błaszczyk, M., Jania, J. A., Ciepły, M., Grabiec, M., Ignatiuk, D., Kolondra,
L., Kruss, A., Luks, B., Moskalik, M., Pastusiak, T., Strzelewicz, A.,
Walczowski, W., Wawrzyniak, T., 2021.
Factors controlling terminus position
of Hansbreen, a tidewater glacier in Svalbard. J. Geophys. Res.-Earth
Surface.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2020JF005763
Blo, G., Contado, C., Conato, C., Dondi, F., 2003.
Separation and elemental
characterization of water-borne particles. [In:] J. Namieśnik, W.
Chrzanowski, & P. Szpinek (Eds.), New horizons and challenges in
environmental analysis and monitoring. Centre of Excellence in Environmental
Analysis and Monitoring, Gdańsk.
Castillo, M. I., Cifuentes, U., Pizarro, O., Djurfeldt, L., Caceres, M., 2016.
Seasonal hydrography and surface outflow in a fjord with a deep sill: the
Reloncaví fjord, Chile. Ocean Sci. 12(2), 533–544.
https://doi.org/10.5194/os-12-533-2016
Cenci, R. M., Martin, J. M., 2004.
Concentration and fate of trace metals
in Mekong River Delta. Sci. Total Environ. 332, 167–182.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.scitotenv.2004.01.018
Chételat, J., McKinney, M., Amyot, M., et al., 2022
. Climate change and
mercury in the Arctic: Abiotic interactions. Sci. Total Environ.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.scitotenv.2022.156213
Choudhary, S., Nayak, G. N., Khare, N., 2020.
Source, mobility, and
bioavailability of metals in fjord sediments of Krossfjord-Kongsfjord system,
Arctic, Svalbard. Environ. Sci. Pollut. Res.27, 15130–15148.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s11356-020-07879-1
Choudhary, S., Syed Mohammad, S., Mohan, R., Tiwari, M., 2024.
Source,
bioavailability, and toxicity of metals in modern fjord sediments, west
Spitsbergen, and their influence on sediment-associated biota. Front.
Marine Sci. 11, 1429998.
https://doi.org/10.3389/fmars.2024.1429998
Ciepły, M., Ignatiuk, D., Moskalik, M., Jania, J., Luks, B., Głowacki, O.,
Wojtysiak, K., 2023.
Seasonal changes in submarine melting mechanisms
controlling frontal ablation of Hansbreen, Svalbard. J. Glaciology
69(277), 1260-1274.
https://doi.org/10.1017/jog.2023.14
Cogley, J. G., Hock, R., Rasmussen, L. A., Arendt, A. A., Bauder, A.,
Braithwaite, R. J., Jansson, P., Kaser, G., Möller, M., Nicholson, L., Zemp,
M., 2011.
Glossary of glacier mass balance and related terms. IHP –
VII Technical Documents in Hydrology No. 86, IACS Contribution No. 2,
UNESCO-IHP, Paris.
Ćwiąkała, J., Moskalik, M., Forwick, M., Wojtysiak, K., Giżejewski, J.,
Szczuciński, W., 2018
. Submarine geomorphology at the front of the
retreating Hansbreen tidewater glacier, Hornsund fjord, southwest
Spitsbergen. J. Maps 14(2), 123–134.
https://doi.org/10.1080/17445647.2018.1441757
Domack, E. W., Foss, D. J. P., Syvitski, J. P. M., et al., 1994.
Transport
of suspended particulate matter in an Antarctic fjord. Mar. Geol. 121,
161–170.
https://doi.org/10.1016/0025-3227(94)90028-0
Fritz, M., Vonk, J., Lantuit, H., 2017.
Collapsing Arctic coastlines.
Nature Climat. Chang. 7, 6–7.
https://doi.org/10.1038/nclimate3188
Gilbert, R., 2000.
Environmental assessment from the sedimentary record of
high-latitude fiords. Geomorphology 32, 295–314.
https://doi.org/10.1016/S0169-555X(99)00101-4
Gladish, C. V., Holland, D. M., Rosing-Asvid, A., Behrens, J. W., Boje, J.,
2015.
Oceanic boundary conditions for Jakobshavn Glacier. Part I:
Variability and renewal of Ilulissat Icefjord waters, 2001–14. J. Phys.
Oceanogr. 45(1), 3–32.
https://doi.org/10.1175/JPO-D-14-0044.1
Grabiec, M., Jania, J., Puczko, D., Kolondra, L., Budzik, T., 2012.
Surface
and bed morphology of Hansbreen, a tidewater glacier in Spitsbergen.
Polish Polar Res. 33(2), 111–138.
https://doi.org/10.2478/v10183-012-0010-7
Grotti, M., Soggia, F., Ardini, F., et al., 2017.
Trace elements in surface
sediments from Kongsfjorden, Svalbard: occurrence, sources and
bioavailability. Internat. J. Environ. Anal. Chem. 97(5), 401–418.
https://doi.org/10.1080/03067319.2017.1317762
Hallet, B., Hunter, L., Bogen, J., 1996.
Rates of erosion and sediment
evacuation by glaciers: A review of field data and their implications.
Global Planet. Change 12, 213–235.
https://doi.org/10.1016/0921-8181(95)00021-6
Hooge, P. N., Hooge, E. R., 2002.
Fjord oceanographic processes in Glacier
Bay, Alaska. USGS – Alaska Science Center, Glacier Bay Field Station,
148 pp.
Hogan, K. A., Jakobsson, M., Mayer, L., et al., 2020.
Glacial
sedimentation, fluxes and erosion rates associated with ice retreat in
Petermann Fjord and Nares Strait, northwest Greenland. The Cryosphere
14(1), 261–286.
https://doi.org/10.5194/tc-14-261-2020
Huang, J., Ge, X., Wang, D., 2012.
Distribution of heavy metals in the
water column, suspended particulate matters and the sediment under hydrodynamic
conditions using an annular flume. J. Environmen. Sci. 24(12),
2051–2059.
https://doi.org/10.1016/s1001-0742(11)61042-5
Ivanov, B. V., Pavlov, A. K., Orbaek, J.-B., 2007.
Investigations of
concentration of the suspended particles in the Kongsfjorden, Spitsbergen
Archipelago. [In:] Multidisciplinary Investigations of the Spitsbergen
Nature, Proc. VII Int. Conf., Apatity, Russia, 156–164.
Jain, V., Korhonen, M., Głowacki, O., Moskalik, M., 2024.
Hydrography of
the inner basins in Hornsund (Svalbard): heat advection near tidewater
glaciers. J. Geophys. Res.-Oceans 129(11), e2024JC021273.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2024JC021273
Kohler, J., James, T., Murray, T., Nuth, C., Brandt, O., Barrand, N., Aas, H.,
Luckman, A., 2007.
Acceleration in thinning rate on western Svalbard
glaciers. Geophys. Res. Lett. 34(18).
https://doi.org/10.1029/2007GL030681
Korhonen, M., Moskalik, M., Głowacki, O., Jain, V., 2024.
Oceanographic
monitoring in Hornsund fjord, Svalbard. Earth Syst. Sci. Date 16(10),
4511–4527.
https://doi.org/10.5194/essd-16-4511-2024
Lu, Z., Cai, M., Wang, J., Yin, Z., Yang, H., 2013.
Levels and distribution
of trace metals in surface sediments from Kongsfjorden, Svalbard, Norwegian
Arctic. Environ. Geochem. Health 35, 257–269.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s10653-012-9481-z
Luckman, A., Benn, D. I., Cottier, F., Bevan, S., Nilsen, F., Inall, M., 2015.
Calving rates at tidewater glaciers vary strongly with ocean
temperature. Nature Communicat. 6, 8566.
https://doi.org/10.1038/ncomms9566
Lundesgaard, Ø., Winsor, P., Truffer, M., Merrifield, M., Powell, B.,
Statscewich, H., Eidam, E., Smith, C. R., 2020.
Hydrography and energetics
of a cold fjord: Andvord Bay, western Antarctic peninsula. Progr.
Oceanogr. 181, 102224.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.pocean.2019.102224
Lund-Hansen, L. C., Andersen, T. J., Nielsen, M. H., Pejrup, M., 2010.
Suspended matter, chl-a, CDOM, grain sizes, and optical properties in the
Arctic fjord-type estuary, Kangerlussuaq, West Greenland during summer.
Estuar. Coast. 33(6), 1442–1451.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s12237-010-9301-2
Łupikasza, E., 2013. Atmospheric precipitation. [In:] A. A. Marsz & A.
Styszyńska (Eds.)
Climate and Climate Change at Hornsund, Svalbard,
Gdynia Maritime Univ., 402 pp.
Mackiewicz, N. E., Powell, R. D., Carlson, P. R., Molnia, B. F., 1984.
Interlaminated ice-proximal glaciomarine sediments in Muir Inlet,
Alaska. Mar. Geol. 57, 113–147.
Matthews, J.B., 1981.
The seasonal circulation of the Glacier Bay, Alaska
fjord system. Estuar. Coast. Shelf Sci. 12, 679–700.
https://doi.org/10.1016/S0302-3524(81)80065-5
McClelland, J. W., Holmes, R. M., Peterson, B. J., Raymond, P. A., Striegl, R.
G., Zhulidov, A. V., Zimov, S. A., Zimov, N., Tank, S. E., Spencer, G. M.,
Staples, R., Gurtovaya, T. Y., Griffin, C. G., 2016.
Particulate organic
carbon and nitrogen export from major Arctic rivers. Global Biogeochem.
Cy. 30, 629–643.
https://doi.org/10.1002/2015GB005351
MK, V. S., Kannan, V. M., Gopikrishna, V. G., Krishnan, K. P., Mohan, M., 2021.
Geochemistry and distribution of Metals in the Sediments of Kongsfjorden,
Svalbard, Arctic. Regional Stud. Mar. Sci. 44, 101729.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.rsma.2021.101729
Moskalik, M., Ćwiąkała, J., Szczuciński, W., Dominiczak, A., Głowacki,
O., Wojtysiak, K., Zagórski, P., 2018.
Spatiotemporal changes in the
concentration and composition of suspended particulate matter in front of
Hansbreen, a tidewater glacier in Svalbard. Oceanologia 60 (4), 446–463.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.oceano.2018.03.001
Muckenhuber, S., Nilsen, F., Korosov, A., Sandven, S., 2016.
Sea ice cover
in Isfjorden and Hornsund, Svalbard (2000–2014) from remote sensing
data. The Cryosphere 10(1), 149–158.
https://doi.org/10.5194/tc-10-149-2016
Osuch, M., Wawrzyniak, T., 2016.
Inter- and intra-annual changes in air
temperature and precipitation in western Spitsbergen. Int. J. Climatol.
37(7), 3082–3097. https://doi.org/10.1002/joc.4901
Pälli, A., Moore, J. C., Jania, J., Kolondra, L., Glowacki, P., 2003.
The
drainage pattern of Hansbreen and Werenskioldbreen, two polythermal glaciers in
Svalbard. Polar Res. 22(2), 355–371.
https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1751-8369.2003.tb00117.x
Park, J., Kim, S., Yoo, J., et al., 2014.
Effect of salinity on acute
copper and zinc toxicity to Tigriopus japonicus: The difference between metal
ions and nanoparticles. Mar. Pollut. Bull. 85, 526–531.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.marpolbul.2014.04.038
Pawłowska, J., Łącka, M., Kucharska, M., Szymańska, N., Koziorowska, K.,
Kuliński, K., Zajączkowski, M., 2017
. Benthic foraminifera contribution
to fjord modern carbon pools: A seasonal study in Adventfjorden,
Spitsbergen. Geobiology 15(5), 704–714.
https://doi.org/10.1111/gbi.12242
Pinilla, E., Castillo, M. I., Pérez-Santos, I., Venegas, O., Valle-Levinson,
A., 2020.
Water age variability in a Patagonian fjord. J. Marine Syst.
210, 103376.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jmarsys.2020.103376
Politova, N. V., Shevchenko, V. P., Zernova, V. V., 2012.
Distribution,
composition, and vertical fluxes of particulate matter in bays of Novaya Zemlya
Archipelago, Vaigach Island at the end of summer. Adv. Meteorol. 2012,
1–15.
https://doi.org/10.1155/2012/259316
Politova, N. V., Kravchishina, M. D., Novigatsky, A. N., et al., 2019.
Dispersed sedimentary matter of the Barents Sea. Oceanology 59,
697–714.
https://doi.org/10.1134/S0001437019050151
Pourabadehei, M., Mulligan, C. N., 2016.
Resuspension of sediment, a new
approach for remediation of contaminated sediment. Environ.Pollut. 213,
63–75.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.envpol.2016.01.082
Rantanen, M., Karpechko, A. Y., Lipponen, A., et al., 2022.
The Arctic has
warmed nearly four times faster than the globe since 1979. Communicat.
Earth Environ. 3, 168.
https://doi.org/10.1038/s43247-022-00498-3
Rudnicka-Kępa, P., Bełdowska, M., Zaborska, A., 2024.
Enhanced heavy
metal discharges to marine deposits in glacial bays of two Arctic fjords
(Hornsund and Kongsfjorden). J. Marine Syst. 241, 103915.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jmarsys.2023.103915
Rudnicka-Kępa, P., Zaborska, A., 2021.
Sources, fate and distribution of
inorganic contaminants in the Svalbard area, representative of a typical Arctic
critical environment – a review. Environ. Monit. Assess. 193, 724.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s10661-021-09305-6
Schellenberger, T., Dunse, T., Kääb, A., Kohler, J., Reijmer, C.H.,
2015
. Surface speed and frontal ablation of Kronebreen and Kongsbreen, NW
Svalbard, from SAR offset tracking. The Cryosphere 9(6), 2339–2355.
https://doi.org/10.5194/tc-9-2339-2015
Spolaor, A., Moroni, B., Luks, B., Nawrot, A., Roman, M., Larose, C., Stachnik,
Ł., Bruschi, F., Kozioł, K., Pawlak, F., Turetta, C., Barbaro, E., Gallet,
J.-C., Cappelletti, D., 2021.
Investigation on the sources and impact of
trace elements in the annual snowpack and the firn in the Hansbreen (Southwest
Spitsbergen). Front. Earth Sci. 8, 536036.
https://doi.org/10.3389/feart.2020.536036
Stanton, B. R., Pickard, G. L., 1981.
Physical oceanography of the New
Zealand fjords. [In:] Fjord oceanography, Springer US, Boston, MA,
329–332.
Svendsen, H., Beszczynska-Møller, A., Hagen, J. O., et al., 2002.
The
physical environment of Kongsfjorden–Krossfjorden, an Arctic fjord system in
Svalbard. Polar Res. 21(1), 133–166.
https://doi.org/10.3402/polar.v21i1.6479
Syvitski, J. P. M., Burell, C. D., Skei, J. M., 1987.
Fjords. Processes and
products. Springer-Verlag, 379 pp.
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4612-4632-9
Szczuciński, W., Moskalik, M., 2017
. Sediment flocculation in fjords:
tidewater glacier bay vs river-dominated bay, 33rd Int. Meet.
Sedimentology; 16ème Congrés Français Sédimentologie, Toulouse, 10–12
October 2017, Abstract Book, 864 pp.
Świrad, Z. M., Moskalik, M., Herman, A., 2023.
Wind wave and water level
dataset for Hornsund, Svalbard (2013–2021). Earth System Sci. Data 15,
2623–2633.
https://doi.org/10.5194/essd-15-2623-2023
Tęgowski, J., Glowacki, O., Ciepły, M., Błaszczyk, M., Jania, J., Moskalik,
M., Blondel, P., Deane, G. B., 2023.
Monitoring glacier calving using
underwater sound. The Cryosphere 17, 4447–4461.
https://doi.org/10.5194/tc-17-4447-2023
Wawrzyniak, T., Majerska, M., Osuch, M., 2020.
Hydrometeorological
observations in 6h resolution in the Fuglebekken catchment (Svalbard)
[dataset]. PANGAEA.
https://doi.org/10.1594/PANGAEA.921919
Węsławski, J. M., Koszteyn, J., Zajaczkowski, M., Wiktor, J., Kwaśniewski,
S., 1995.
Fresh water in Svalbard fjord ecosystems. [In:] H. R.
Skjodal, C. Hopkins, K. E. Erikstad, H. P. Leina (Eds.), Ecology of Fjords and
Coastal Waters, Elsevier, 229–241.
Włodarska-Kowalczuk, M., Mazurkiewicz, M., Górska, B., Michel, L. N.,
Jankowska, E., aborska, A., 2019.
Organic carbon origin, benthic faunal
consumption, and burial in sediments of northern Atlantic and Arctic fjords
(60–81°N). J. Geophys. Res.-Biogeosci. 124(12), 3737–3751.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2019JG005140
Zaborska, A., Beszczyńska-Möller, A., Włodarska-Kowalczuk, M., 2017
.
History of heavy metal accumulation in the Svalbard area: Distribution, origin
and transport pathways. Environ. Pollut. 231, 437–450.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.envpol.2017.08.042
Zaborska, A., Strzelewicz, A., Rudnicka, P., Moskalik, M., 2020.
Processes
driving heavy metal distribution in the seawater of an Arctic fjord (Hornsund,
southern Spitsbergen). Mar. Pollut. Bull. 161, 111719.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.marpolbul.2020.111719
Zajączkowski, M., Włodarska-Kowalczuk, M., 2007.
Dynamic sedimentary
environments of an Arctic glacierfed river estuary (Adventfjorden,
Svalbard). I. Flow dynamics, sediment transport, and deposition. Estuar.
Coast. Shelf Sci. 74(1–2),
285–296.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ecss.2007.04.015
Zhao, K. X., Stewart, A. L., and McWilliams, J. C., 2021.
Geometric
Constraints on Glacial Fjord–Shelf Exchange. J. Phys. Oceanogr., 51,
1223–1246.
https://doi.org/10.1175/JPO-D-20-0091
Zhu, Z.-Y., Wu, Y., Liu, A.-M., et al., 2016.
Organic carbon flux and
particulate organic matter composition in Arctic valley glaciers: Examples from
the Bayelva River and adjacent Kongsfjorden. Biogeosci. 13(4), 975–987.
https://doi.org/10.5194/bg-13-975-2016
https://dataspace.copernicus.eu/
(access date: 07.2023)
The influence of seasonal hydrography and nutrient regimes on micro-phytoplankton assemblages in the coastal waters of Jeddah, central Red Sea
Oceanologia, 68 (2)/2026, 68204, 19 pp.
https://doi.org/10.5697/JZIS4816
Reny Palliparambil Devassy1, Vidyanandan Remadevi Shamji2, Faisal Mana Alsaaq2, Turki Metabe Alraddadi3, Mohsen Mohamed El-Sherbiny4,*
1Almobdioon Center for Studies, Consultancy, and Training, King Abdulaziz University, Jeddah, Saudi Arabia
2Faculty of Maritime Studies, King Abdulaziz University, P.O Box 80401, Jeddah, Saudi Arabia
3Department of Marine Physics, Faculty of Marine Science, King Abdulaziz University, P.O Box 80207, Jeddah 21589, Saudi Arabia
4Department of Marine Biology, Faculty of Marine Science, King Abdulaziz University, P.O Box 80207, Jeddah 21589, Saudi Arabia;
e-mail: ooomar@kau.edu.sa (M. M. El-Sherbiny)
*corresponding author
Keywords:
Phytoplankton; Anthropogenic influences; Abundance; Coastal waters; Red Sea
Received: 14 October 2025; revised: 30 November 2025; accepted: 22 December 2025
Highlights
- Central Jeddah waters show nutrient enrichment from urban and industrial inputs
- Anthropogenic pressures drive coastal eutrophication in the central Red Sea
- Summer phytoplankton dominated by Proboscia alata and Lioloma elongatum
- Forty harmful phytoplankton species detected, including toxic Pseudo-nitzschia
- Phytoplankton biomass peaks in nutrient-rich central waters during warm months
Abstract
This study examined spatial and temporal variations in hydrography, nutrients, and phytoplankton along the Jeddah
coast, Red Sea. Temperature ranged from 26.2 ± 0.14°C (February) to 33.4 ± 0.17°C (August), with minimal salinity
changes. Nitrate, silicate, and SPM were elevated in the central region. Chlorophyll a and phytoplankton abundances
peaked there, reaching 1.54 mg m-3 in October and 43,393 × 103 cells m-3 in July. Centric diatoms (Proboscia alata) dominated in summer, pennate diatoms (Lioloma elongatum) in May, and dinoflagellates in June (1246 × 103
cells m-3). Cyanophytes peaked in November. In total, 284 species, including 40 harmful taxa, were identified, mainly
diatoms and dinoflagellates.
References
Acker, J., Leptoukh, G., Shen, S., Zhu, T., Kempler, S., 2008.
Remotely-sensed chlorophyll a observations of the northern Red Sea indicate
seasonal variability and influence of coastal reefs. J. Mar. Syst. 69
(3–4), 191–204.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jmarsys.2005.12.006
Al-Aidaroos, A.M., Devassy, R.P., El-Sherbiny, M.M., 2019.
Unusual
dominance of harmful microalgae Pseudonitzschia delicatissima cf. (Cleve)
Heiden in the coastal waters of Jeddah, central Red Sea. Pak. J. Bot. 51
(2), 1–6.
https://doi.org/10.30848/PJB2019-2(44)
Al-Amri, A.A., Qari, H.A., El-Sherbiny, M.M., 2020.
Distribution and
community structure of microphytoplankton in relation to increasing
anthropogenic impact along coastal waters of Jeddah, the central Red Sea.
Oceanol. Hydrobiol. Stud. 49 (2), 193–205.
https://doi.org/10.1515/ohs-2020-0018
Al-Barakati, A.M., 2011.
A study of tidal water circulation using a
two-dimensional model in Jeddah Islamic Port, Red Sea. JKAU: Mar. Sci. 22,
113–123.
Al-Farawati, R., Al-Maradni, A., Niaz, R., 2008.
Chemical characteristics
(nutrients, fecal sterols and polyaromatic hydrocarbons) of the surface waters
for Sharm Obhur, Jeddah, Eastern Coast of the Red Sea. JKAU: Mar. Sci. 19,
95–119.
Al-Farawati, R., El Sayed, M.A.K., Rasul, N.M., 2018.
Nitrogen, phosphorus
and organic carbon in the Saudi Arabian Red Sea Coastal Waters: behaviour and
human impact. [In:] Rasul, N., Stewart, I. (Eds.) Oceanographic and
biological aspects of the Red Sea, Springer Int. Publ., 89–104.
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-99417-8_5
Al-Yamani, F., Saburova, M., Polikarpov, I., 2024.
A comparison of
potentially harmful microalgae and phytoplankton blooms in the Arabian Gulf and
the Red Sea. [In:] Rasul, N.M., Stewart, I.C. (Eds.), Coral reefs and
associated marine fauna around the Arabian Peninsula, CRC Press, 267–287.
https://doi.org/10.1201/9781003321392-24
Anderson, M.J., Crist, T.O., Chase, J.M., Vellend, M., Inouye, B.D., Freestone,
A.L., Sanders, N.J., Cornell, H.V., Comita, L.S., Davies, K.F., Harrison, S.P.,
Kraft, N.J.B., Stegen, J.C., Swenson, N.G., 2011.
Navigating the multiple
meanings of β diversity: a roadmap for the practicing ecologist. Ecol.
Lett. 14 (1), 19–28.
https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1461-0248.2010.01552.x
Ansari, A.A., Gill, S.S., Khan, F.A., 2011.
Eutrophication: threat to
aquatic ecosystems, [In:] Eutrophication: causes, consequences and
control, Springer, Dordrecht, London, New York, 143–170.
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-90-481-9625-8_7
Aziz, B.S.A., Kosaki, Y., Ishikawa, M., 2011.
Water environmental
conditions in the Jeddah coast. Mem. Osaka Inst. Technol. Ser. A, 56,
17–21.
Ba-Akdah, M.A., Radi, N.I., Jastania, H.A., 2008.
Determination of some
micro-nutrient Salt concentrations of Al-Nawras lagoon surface waters at Jeddah
coast on the Red Sea. JKAU Mar. Sci. 19, 29.
https://doi.org/10.4197/mar.19-1.3
Banguera-Hinestroza, E., Eikrem, W., Mansour, H., Solberg, I., Curdia, J.,
Holtermann, K., Edvardsen, B., Kaartvedt, S., 2016.
Seasonality and toxin
production of Pyrodinium bahamense in a Red Sea lagoon. Harmful Algae, 55,
163–171.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.hal.2016.03.002
Basaham, A.S., Rifaat, A.E., El-Mamoney, M.H., El Sayed, M.A., 2009.
Re-evaluation of the impact of sewage disposal on coastal sediments of the
Southern Corniche, Jeddah, Saudi Arabia. JKAU: Mar. Sci. 20, 109–126.
Berumen, M.L., Voolstra, Ch.R., Daffonchio, D., Agusti, S., Aranda, M.,
Irigoien, X., Jones, B.H., Morán, X.A.G., Duarte, C.M., 2019.
The Red
Sea: Environmental gradients shape a natural laboratory in a Nascent
Ocean. [In:] Voolstra, C., Berumen, M. (Eds.), Coral reefs of the Red Sea,
Springer, Cham, 1–10.
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-05802-9_1
Cai, C., Devassy, R. P., El-Sherbiny, M. M., Agusti, S., 2024.
Influence of
seasonal variation and anthropogenic activities on elemental compositions in
zooplankton: a yearlong case study from the Jeddah coast of the Red Sea.
Earth Syst. Environ. 8 (3), 627–643.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s41748-024-00403-2
Carvalho, S., Kürten, B., Krokos, G., Hoteit, I., Ellis, J., 2019. The Red
Sea. [In:] Sheppard, C. (Ed.)
World seas: An environmental evaluation,
Acad. Press, 49–74.
https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-08-100853-9.00004-X
Cullen, J.J., 2008. Observation and prediction of harmful algal blooms. [In:]
Babin, M., Roesler, C. S., Cullen, J. J. (Eds.),
Real-time coastal
observing system for marine ecosystem dynamics and harmful algal blooms:
theory, Instrument and Modeling, Oceanogr. Method. Ser., UNESCO, Paris,
1–41.
Devassy, R.P., El-Sherbiny, M.M., Al-Sofyani, A.M., Al-Aidaroos, A.M., 2017.
Spatial variation in the phytoplankton standing stock and diversity in
relation to the prevailing environmental conditions along the Saudi Arabian
coast of the northern Red Sea. Mar. Biodivers. 47, 995–1008.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s12526-017-0693-4
DiBattista, J.D., Howard, C.J., Gaither, M.R., Hobbs, J.P.A., Lozano-Cortés,
D.F., Myers, R.F., Paulay, G., Rocha, L.A., Toonen, R.J., Westneat, M.W.,
Berumen, M.L., 2016.
On the origin of endemic species in the Red Sea.
J. Biogeogr. 43 (1), 13–30.
https://doi.org/10.1111/jbi.12631
Dorgham, M., 2014. Effects of Eutrophication. [In:] Ansari, A.A., Gill, S.S.
(Eds.),
Eutrophication: Causes, Consequences and Control. Springer,
Dordrecht, 29–44.
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-94-007-7814-6_3
Durkin, C.A., Van Mooy, B.A., Dyhrman, S.T., Buesseler, K.O., 2016.
Sinking
phytoplankton associated with carbon flux in the Atlantic Ocean. Limnol.
Oceanogr. 61 (4), 1172–1187.
https://doi.org/10.1002/lno.10253
El Sayed, M.A., 2002.
Distribution and behavior of dissolved species of
nitrogen and phosphorus in two coastal Red Sea lagoons receiving domestic
sewage. JKAU: Mar. Sci. 13, 47–73.
El Sayed, M.A., El-Maradny, A.A., Al Farawati, R., Shaban, Y.A., 2011.
Evaluation of the adequacy of a rehabilitation programme, implemented in
two Red Sea coastal lagoons, using the hydrological characteristics of surface
water. JKAU: Mar. Sci. 22 (2), 69–108.
https://doi.org/10.4197/Mar.22-2.6
El-Sherbiny, M.M., Al-Harbi, M.A., Kumar, A.J., 2021.
Spatiotemporal
variation of microphytoplankton communities in Obhur Creek, the central Red
Sea. Oceanol. Hydrobiol. Stud. 50 (1), 98–114.
https://doi.org/10.2478/oandhs-2021-0010
Ewea, H.A., 2010.
Hydrological analysis of flooding wastewater lake in
Jeddah, Saudi Arabia. JKAU: Met. Env. Arid Land Agric. Sci. 21 (1),
125–144.
Fahmy, M., 2003.
Water quality in the Red Sea coastal waters (Egypt)
analysis of spatial and temporal variability. Chem. Ecol. 19 (1), 67–77.
https://doi.org/10.1080/0275754031000087074
Falkowski, P.G., 1994.
The role of phytoplankton photosynthesis in global
biogeochemical cycles. Photosynth. Res. 39, 235–258.
https://doi.org/10.1007/BF00014586
Ghandour, I.M., Basaham, S., Al-Washmi, A., Masuda, H., 2014.
Natural and
anthropogenic controls on sediment composition of an arid coastal environment:
Sharm Obhur, Red Sea, Saudi Arabia. Environ. Monit. Assess. 186,
1465–1484.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s10661-013-3467-x
Ghandourah, M.A., Orif, M.I., Al-Farawati, R.K., El-Shahawi, M.S., Abu-Zeid,
R.H., 2023.
Illegal pollution loading accelerate the oxygen deficiency
along the coastal lagoons of eastern Red Sea. Reg. Stud. Mar. Sci. 63,
102982.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.rsma.2023.102982
Glibert, P.M., Al-Azri, A., Icarus Allen, J., Bouwman, A.F., Beusen, A.H.,
Burford, M.A., Harrison, P.J., Zhou, M., 2018.
Key questions and recent
research advances on harmful algal blooms in relation to nutrients and
eutrophication. [In:] Glibert, P., Berdalet, E., Burford, M., Pitcher, G.,
Zhou, M. (Eds.), Global ecology and oceanography of harmful algal blooms. Ecol.
Stud. 232, 229–259.
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-70069-4_12
Gokul, E.A., Raitsos, D.E., Gittings, J.A., Hoteit, I., 2020.
Developing an
atlas of harmful algal blooms in the red sea: Linkages to local
aquaculture. Remote Sens. 12 (22), 3695.
https://doi.org/10.3390/rs12223695
Gomaa, M.N., Hannachi, I., Carmichael, W.W., Al-Hazmi, M.A., Abouwarda, A.M.,
Mostafa, E.A., Mohamed, H.E., Sheikho, K.M., Mulla, D.J., 2018.
Low
diversity triggers harmful algae bloom (HAB) occurrence adjacent to
desalination plants along the Red Sea. Desalin. Water Treat. 114, 1–12.
https://doi.org/10.5004/dwt.2018.22323
Häder, D.P., Gao, K., 2015.
Interactions of anthropogenic stress factors
on marine phytoplankton. Front. Environ. Sci. 3, 14.
https://doi.org/10.3389/fenvs.2015.00014
Henson, S.A., Cael, B.B., Allen, S.R., Dutkiewicz, S., 2021.
Future
phytoplankton diversity in a changing climate. Nat. Commun. 12 (1), 5372.
https://doi.org/10.1038/s41467-021-25699-w
Ismael, A.A., 2015. Phytoplankton of the Red Sea. [In:] Rasul, N., Stewart, I.
(Eds.),
The Red Sea: the formation, morphology, oceanography and
environment of a young ocean basin, 567–583.
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-662-45201-1_32
Ismael, A., Alkawri, A., 2024. Harmful algae in the Red Sea. [In:] Rasul, N.,
Stewart, I. (Eds.),
Coral reefs and associated marine fauna around the
Arabian Peninsula, CRC Press, 257–266.
https://doi.org/10.1201/9781003321392
Kheireddine, M., Mayot, N., Ouhssain, M., Jones, B.H., 2021.
Regionalization of the Red Sea based on phytoplankton phenology: a
satellite analysis. J. Geophys. Res. Oceans, 126 (10), e2021JC017486.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2021JC017486
Kheireddine, M., Ouhssain, M., Claustre, H., Uitz, J., Gentili, B., Jones,
B.H., 2017.
Assessing pigment-based phytoplankton community distributions
in the Red Sea. Front. Mar. Sci. 4, 132.
https://doi.org/10.3389/fmars.2017.00132
Khomayis, H.S., 2002.
The annual cycle of nutrient salts and chlorophyll a
in the coastal waters of Jeddah, Red Sea. JKAU: Mar. Sci. 13,
131–145.
Kürten, B., Khomayis, H.S., Devassy, R., Audritz, S., Sommer, U., Struck, U.,
El-Sherbiny, M.M., Al-Aidaroos, A.M., 2015.
Ecohydrographic constraints on
biodiversity and distribution of phytoplankton and zooplankton in coral reefs
of the Red Sea, Saudi Arabia. Mar. Ecol. 36 (4), 1195–1214.
https://doi.org/10.1111/maec.12224
LeGresley, M., McDermott, G., 2010.
Counting chamber methods for
quantitative phytoplankton analysis – haemocytometer, Palmer-Maloney cell and
Sedgewick-Rafter cell. [In:] Karlson, B., Cusack, C., Bresnan, E. (Eds.),
Microscopic and molecular methods for quantitative phytoplankton analysis. IOC
Manuals and Guides, 55, UNESCO, Paris, 25–30.
Mohamed, Z.A., 2018.
Potentially harmful microalgae and algal blooms in the
Red Sea: Current knowledge and research needs. Mar. Environ. Res. 140,
234–242.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.marenvres.2018.06.019
Morcos, S.A., 1970.
Physical and chemical oceanography of the Red Sea.
Oceanogr. Mar. Biol. Annu. Rev. 8 (73), 202.
Mudarris, M.S., Turki, A.J., 2006. Sewage water quality and its dilution in the
coastal waters of South Corniche, Jeddah, Red Sea. JKAU: Mar. Sci. 17 (2),
11–128.
Naselli-Flores, L., Padisák, J., 2023.
Ecosystem services provided by
marine and freshwater phytoplankton. Hydrobiologia 850 (12), 2691–2706.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s10750-022-04795-y
Orif, M.I., Kavil, Y.N., Al-Farawati, R.K., Sudheesh, V., 2023.
Deoxygenation turns the coastal Red Sea lagoons into sources of nitrous
oxide. Mar. Pollut. Bull. 189, 114806.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.marpolbul.2023.114806
Parsons T.R., Maita, Y., Lalli, C.M., 1984.
A manual of chemical and
biological methods for seawater analysis. Pergamon, Oxford, 173 pp.
https://doi.org/10.25607/OBP-1830
Peña-Garcı́a, D. 2022
. Nutrient gradients in the Red Sea: The coastal
area off Jeddah and the central Red Sea. Ph.D. Dissert.,
Christian-Albrechts-Universität zu Kiel.
Peña-Garcı́a, D., Ladwig, N., Turki, A.J., Mudarris, M.S., 2014
. Input
and dispersion of nutrients from the Jeddah Metropolitan Area, Red Sea.
Mar. Pollut. Bull. 80 (1–2), 41–51.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.marpolbul.2014.01.052
Post, A.F., Dedej, Z., Gottlieb, R., Li, H., Thomas, D.N., El-Absawi, M.,
El-Naggar, M., El-Gharabawi, M., Sommer, U., 2002.
Spatial and temporal
distribution of Trichodesmium spp. in the stratified Gulf of Aqaba. Red
Sea. Mar. Ecol. Prog. Ser. 239, 241–250.
https://doi.org/10.3354/meps239241
Racault, M.F., Raitsos, D.E., Berumen, M.L., Brewin, R.J., Platt, T.,
Sathyendranath, S., Hoteit, I., 2015.
Phytoplankton phenology indices in
coral reef ecosystems: Application to ocean-color observations in the Red Sea.
Remote Sens. Environ. 160, 222–234.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.rse.2015.01.019
Raitsos, D.E., Hoteit, I., Prihartato, P.K., Chronis, T., Triantafyllou, G.,
Abualnaja, Y., 2011.
Abrupt warming of the Red Sea. Geophys. Res.
Lett. 38 (14).
https://doi.org/10.1029/2011GL047984
Rasul, N.M., Stewart, I.C., Vine, P., Nawab, Z.A., 2018.
Introduction to
oceanographic and biological aspects of the Red Sea. [In:] Rasul, N.,
Stewart, I. (Eds.) Oceanographic and biological aspects of the Red Sea.
Springer, Cham, 1–9.
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-99417-8_1
Reynolds, C.S., 2008.
A changing paradigm of pelagic food webs. Int.
Rev. Hydrobiol. 93 (4--5), 517–531.
https://doi.org/10.1002/iroh.200711026
Richardson, T.L., 2019.
Mechanisms and pathways of smallphytoplankton
export from the surface ocean. Annu. Rev. Mar. Sci. 11 (1), 57–74.
https://doi.org/10.1146/annurev-marine-121916-063627
Richardson, T.L., Jackson, G.A., 2007.
Small phytoplankton and carbon
export from the surface ocean. Science 315 (5813), 838–840.
https://doi.org/10.1126/science.1133471
Robinson, C., 2017.
Phytoplankton biogeochemical cycles. [In:]
Castellani, C., Edwards, M. (Eds.), Marine plankton: A practical guide to
ecology, methodology, and taxonomy. Oxford Univ. Press, 42–51.
Salmaso, N., Tolotti, M., 2021.
Phytoplankton and anthropogenic changes in
pelagic environments. Hydrobiologia 848 (1), 251–284.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s10750-020-04323-w
Schoo, K.L., Malzahn, A.M., Krause, E., Boersma, M., 2013.
Increased carbon
dioxide availability alters phytoplankton stoichiometry and affects carbon
cycling and growth of a marine planktonic herbivore. Mar. Biol. 160,
2145–2155.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s00227-012-2121-4
Smayda, T.J., 2008.
Complexity in the eutrophication–harmful algal bloom
relationship, with comment on the importance of grazing. Harmful Algae 8
(1), 140–151.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.hal.2008.08.018
Sofianos, S.S., Johns, W.E., 2003.
An oceanic general circulation model
(OGCM) investigation of the Red Sea circulation: 2. Three-dimensional
circulation in the Red Sea. J. Geophys. Res. Oceans, 108 (C3).
Sofianos, S.S., Johns, W.E., Murray, S.P., 2002.
Heat and freshwater
budgets in the Red Sea from direct observations at Bab el Mandeb. Deep-Sea
Res. Pt. 2, 49 (7–8), 1323–1340.
https://doi.org/10.1016/S0967-0645(01)00164-3
Taylor, F.J.R., 1976.
Dinoflagellates from the international Indian Ocean
expedition. A report on material collected by the R.V. “Anton Bruun”
1963–1964. Bibl. Bot. 132, 1–234.
Tomas, C.R., 1997.
Identifying marine phytoplankton. Acad. Press, New
York, 858 pp.
Turki, A.J., Mudarris, M.S.A., 2008.
Bacteria and nutrients as pollution
indicators in the Al-Nawrus recreational lagoon, Jeddah. JKAU: Mar. Sci.
19 (1), 77–93.
Wafar, M., Ashraf, M., Manikandan, K.P., Qurban, M.A., Kattan, Y., 2016.
Propagation of Gulf of Aden Intermediate Water (GAIW) in the Red Sea during
autumn and its importance to biological production. J. Mar. Syst. 154,
243–251.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jmarsys.2015.10.016
Barrier layer formation and dynamics in the Red Sea based on Argo profiles and sea level anomaly analysis
Oceanologia, 68 (2)/2026, 68205, 21 pp.
https://doi.org/10.5697/UHUO2457
Hadeel A. Alsayed1, Mohammed A. Alsaafani1,2,*, Turki M. Alraddadi1
1Department of Marine Physics, Faculty of Marine Sciences, King Abdulaziz University, P.O. Box 80207, Jeddah 21589, Saudi Arabia;
e-mail: malsaafani@kau.edu.s (M. A. Alsaafani)
2Department of Environmental Sciences, Faculty of Petroleum and Natural Science, Sana’a University, Sana’a, Yemen
*corresponding author
Keywords:
Barrier layer; Argo floats; Red Sea; Deep convection; Mixed layer
Received: 6 May 2025; revised: 7 January 2025; accepted: 18 January 2026
Highlights
- First evidence of a seasonal barrier layer in the Red Sea (2012–2018 Argo data)
- BL forms in winter and erodes by late spring, strongest in the northern Red Sea
- Anticyclonic eddies deepen the BL; cyclonic eddies erode or eliminate it
- Strong winds and convection drive BL formation in northern regions
Abstract
This study presents the first comprehensive investigation of the barrier layer (BL) in the Red Sea (RS) based on Argo
float observations from 2012 to 2018, combined with sea level anomaly (SLA) data. The BL is defined as the layer between the temperature-based mixed layer (MLT) and the density-based mixed layer (MLD). The RS is divided into three regions – north (26°N–22°N), central (22°N–18°N), and south (18°N–14°N) – to analyze the spatial and temporal variability of the BL. The results show strong evidence of BL presence in all three regions during winter, with maximum thickness observed in January–February, decay by April, and almost no BL during summer. The BL is thickest in the north due to winter cooling and convection, with salinity stratification deepening the MLT below the MLD. It is more moderate and persistent in the central basin, and thinner and short-lived in the south. Buoyancy frequency and salinity analysis confirm that haline stratification stabilizes the water column and sustains the barrier layer. SLA data were used to examine the impact of mesoscale eddies, indicating that anticyclonic eddies (AEs) enhance BL thickness through convergence and downwelling, whereas cyclonic eddies (CEs) tend to erode the BL by shoaling the
mixed layer. In the northern RS, unusual deep mixed layers sometimes occur within CEs, which is consistent with the convective overturning during winter. These findings provide the first description of BL characteristics, which improve our understanding of Red Sea upper ocean dynamics, vertical mixing, and climate interactions.
References
Abdulla, C. P., Alsaafani, M. A., Alraddadi, T. M., Albarakati, A. M., 2018.
Mixed layer depth variability in the Red Sea. Ocean Sci. 14(4),
563–573.
https://doi.org/10.5194/os-14-563-2018
Al Saafani, M. A., Shenoi, S. S. C., 2004.
Seasonal cycle of hydrography in
the Bab el Mandab region, southern Red Sea. J. Earth Syst. Sci. 113,
269–280.
https://doi.org/10.1007/BF02716725
Balaguru, K., Chang, P., Saravanan, R., Jang, C. J., 2012.
The barrier
layer of the Atlantic warmpool: formation mechanism and influence on the mean
climate. Tellus A: Dynam. Meteorol. Oceanogr. 64(1).
https://doi.org/10.3402/tellusa.v64i0.18162
Balaguru, K., Chang, P., Saravanan, R., Leung, L. R., Xu, Z., Li, M., Hsieh, J.
S., 2012.
Ocean barrier layers’ effect on tropical cyclone
intensification. Proc. Nat. Acad. Sci. 109(36), 14343–14347.
https://doi.org/10.1073/pnas.1201364109
Bower, A.S., Farrar, J.T., 2015.
Air-sea interaction and horizontal
circulation in the Red Sea. [In:] Rasul, N., Stewart, I. (eds.) The Red
Sea. Springer Earth System Sciences. Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg.
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-662-45201-1_19
Cabrera, O. C., Villanoy, C. L., David, L. T., Gordon, A. L., 2011.
Barrier
layer control of entrainment and upwelling in the Bohol Sea, Philippines.
Oceanography 24(1), 130–141.
http://www.Jstor.Org/Stable/24861246
Cronin, M. F., McPhaden, M. J., 2002.
Barrier layer formation during
westerly wind bursts. J. Geophys. Res.-Oceans 107(C12), SRF-21.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2001JC001171
De Boyer Montégut, C., Mignot, J., Lazar, A., Cravatte, S., 2007.
Control
of salinity on the mixed layer depth in the world ocean: 1. General
description. J. Geophys. Res.-Oceans 112(C6).
https://doi.org/10.1029/2006JC003953
Dong, S., Goni, G., Lumpkin, R., 2015.
Mixed-layer salinity budget in the
SPURS region on seasonal to interannual time scales. Oceanography 28(1),
78–85.
http://www.jstor.org/stable/24861845
Durand, F., Shankar, D., de Boyer Montégut, C., Shenoi, S. S. C., Blanke, B.,
Madec, G., 2007.
Modeling the barrierlayer formation in the southeastern
Arabian Sea. J. Climate 20(10), 2109–2120.
https://doi.org/10.1175/JCLI4112.1
Echols, R., Riser, S. C., 2020.
The impact of barrier layers on Arabian Sea
surface temperature variability. Geophys. Res. Lett. 47(3), e2019GL085290.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2019GL085290
Foltz, G. R., McPhaden, M. J., 2009.
Impact of Barrier Layer Thickness on
SST in the Central Tropical North Atlantic. J. Clim. 22(2), 285–299.
https://doi.org/10.1175/2008JCLI2308.1
Gaube, P. J., McGillicuddy Jr, D., Moulin, A. J., 2019.
Mesoscale eddies
modulate mixed layer depth globally. Geophys. Res. Lett. 46(3),
1505–1512.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2018GL080006
Gayan Pathirana, U. P., Chen, G., Priyadarshana, T., Wang, D., 2017.
Importance of vertical mixing and barrier layer variation on seasonal mixed
layer heat balance in the Bay of Bengal. Ocean Sci. Discuss. 2017, 1–27.
https://doi.org/10.5194/os-2017-67
George, J. V., Vinayachandran, P. N., Vijith, V., Thushara, V., Nayak, A. A.,
Pargaonkar, S. M., Amol, P., Vijaykumar, K., Matthews, A. J., 2019.
Mechanisms of Barrier Layer Formation and Erosion from In Situ Observations
in the Bay of Bengal. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 49(5), 1183–1200.
https://doi.org/10.1175/JPO-D-18-0204.1
Girishkumar, M. S., Ravichandran, M., McPhaden, M. J., 2013.
Temperature
inversions and their influence on the mixed layer heat budget during the
winters of 2006–2007 and 2007–2008 in the Bay of Bengal. J. Geophys.
Res.-Oceans 118(5), 2426–2437.
https://doi.org/10.1002/jgrc.20192
Hansen, D. V., Thacker, W. C., 1999.
Estimation of salinity profiles in the
upper ocean. J. Geophys. Res.-Oceans 104(C4), 7921–7933.
https://doi.org/10.1029/1999JC900015
He, Q., Zhan, H., Cai, S., 2020.
Anticyclonic eddies enhance the winter
barrier layer and surface cooling in the Bay of Bengal. J. Geophys.
Res.-Oceans, 125(10), e2020JC016524.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2020JC016524
Head, S. M., Edwards, A. J. (Eds.), 1987.
Red Sea. Pergamon Press.
https://www.academia.edu/download/82710153/Frazier_1987_Red_Sea_Turtles_and_marine_mammals.pdf
Jones, E. N., Browning, D. G., 1971.
Cold water layer in the southern Red
Sea. Limnol. Oceanograph. 16(3), 503–509.
https://doi.org/10.4319/lo.1971.16.3.0503
Kantha, L., Clayson, C. A., 2003.
Ocean mixed layer. Encyclop. Atmos.
Sci., 291–298.
https://doi.org/10.1016/B0-12-227090-8/00093-2
Krokos, G., Cerovec̆ki, I., Zhan, P., Hendershott, M. C., Hoteit, I., 2021.
Seasonal evolution of mixed layers in the Red Sea and the relative
contribution of atmospheric buoyancy and momentum Forcing. arXiv preprint
arXiv:2112.08762.
https://doi.org/10.48550/arXiv.2112.08762
Barrier layer formation and dynamics in the Red Sea based on Argo profiles and
sea level anomaly … 20/21 Langodan, S., Cavaleri, L., Vishwanadhapalli, Y.,
et al., 2017.
The climatology of the Red Sea – part 1: the wind.
Int. J. Climatol.
http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/joc.5103
Langodan, S., Cavaleri, L., Viswanadhapalli, Y., Hoteit, I., 2014.
The Red
Sea: a natural laboratory for wind and wave modeling. J. Phys.
Oceanogr.44(12), 3139–3159.
https://doi.org/10.1175/JPO-D-13-0242.1
Liu, H., Grodsky, S. A., Carton, J. A., 2009.
Observed subseasonal
variability of oceanic barrier and compensated layers. J. Clim. 22(22),
6104–6119.
https://doi.org/10.1175/2009JCLI2974.1
Lukas, R., Lindstrom, E., 1991.
The mixed layer of the western equatorial
Pacific Ocean. J. Geophys.Res.-Oceans 96(S01), 3343–3357.
https://doi.org/10.1029/90JC01951
Mackey, D. J., Parslow, J., Higgins, H. W., Griffiths, F. B., O’Sullivan, J.
E., 1995.
Plankton productivity and biomass in the western equatorial
Pacific: biological and physical controls. Deep Sea Res. Pt. II: Topical
Stud. Oceanogr. 42(2–3), 499–533.
https://doi.org/10.1016/0967-0645(95)00038-R
Maes, C., Belamari, S., 2011.
On the impact of salinity barrier layer on
the Pacific Ocean mean state and ENSO. Sola 7, 97–100.
https://doi.org/10.2151/sola.2011-025
Maes, C., O’Kane,T. J., 2014.
Seasonal variations of the upper Marshall,
D., 1997. Subduction of water masses in an eddying ocean.
https://elischolar.library.yale.edu/journal_of_marine_research/2223
Mignot, J., de Boyer Montégut, C., Tomczak, M., 2009.
On the porosity of
barrier layers. Ocean Sci. 5(3), 379–387.
https://doi.org/10.5194/os-5-379-2009
Mignot, J., de Boyer Montégut, C., Lazar, A., Cravatte, S., 2007.
Control
of salinity on the mixed layer depth in the world ocean: 2. Tropical
areas. J. Geophys. Res.-Oceans, 112(C10).
https://doi.org/10.1029/2006JC003954
Mohleji, S., Clayson, C. A.,
13.6 precipitation variability and
barrier-layer formation in the north indian ocean. https://ams.confex.com/ams/pdfpapers/35639.pdf
Morcos, S. A., 1970.
Physical and chemical oceanography of the Red
Sea, Oceanogr. Mar. Biol. Annu. Rev. 8, H. Barnes, 73–202.
Murray, S. P., Johns, W., 1997.
Direct observations of seasonal exchange
through the Bab el Mandab Strait. Geophys. Res. Lett. 24(21), 2557–2560.
https://doi.org/10.1029/97GL02741
Maes, C., O’Kane, T. J., 2014.
Seasonal variations of the upper ocean
salinity stratification in the tropics. J. Geophys. Res.-Oceans 119 (3),
1706–1722
https://doi.org/10.1002/2013JC009366
Pailler, K., Bourls, B., Gouriou, Y., 1999.
The barrier layer in the
western tropical Atlantic Ocean. Geophys. Res. Lett. 26(14), 2069–2072.
https://doi.org/10.1029/1999GL900492
Pan, A., Liang, C., Wan, X., 2019.
Features, Mechanism of the Barrier Layer
in the Tropical Pacific Ocean and its Relationship with ENSO. Examines
Mar. Biol. Oceanogr. 3(2).
https://doi.org/10.31031/EIMBO.2019.03.000556
Pan, L., Zhong, Y., Liu, H., Zhou, L., Zhang, Z., Zhou, M., 2018.
Seasonal
variation of barrier layer in the Southern Ocean. J. Geophys. Res.-Oceans
123(3), 2238–2253.
https://doi.org/10.1002/2017JC013382
Qu, T., Meyers, G., 2005.
Seasonal variation of barrier layer in the
southeastern tropical Indian Ocean. J. Geophys. Res.-Oceans 110(C11).
https://doi.org/10.1029/2004JC002816
Radenac, M. H., Rodier, M., 1996.
Nitrate and chlorophyll distributions in
relation to thermohaline and current structures in the western tropical Pacific
during 1985–1989. Deep-Sea Res. Pt. II: Topical Stud. Oceanogr
43(4–6), 725–752.
https://doi.org/10.1016/0967-0645(96)00025-2
Radenac, M. H., Messié, M., Léger, F., Bosc, C., 2013
. A very
oligotrophic zone observed from space in the equatorial Pacific warm pool.
Remote Sens. Environ. 134, 224–233.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.rse.2013.03.007
Rao, R. R., Sivakumar, R., 2003.
Seasonal variability of sea surface
salinity and salt budget of the mixed layer of the north Indian Ocean. J.
Geophys. Res.-Oceans 108(C1), 9–11.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2001JC000907
Ruardij, P., Van Haren, H., Ridderinkhof, H., 1997.
The impact of thermal
stratification on phytoplankton and nutrient dynamics in shelf seas: a model
study. J. Sea Res. 38(3–4), 311–331.
https://doi.org/10.1016/S1385-1101(97)00042-7
Rudzin, J. E., Shay, L. K., Jaimes, B., Brewster, J. K., 2017.
Upper ocean
observations in eastern C aribbean S ea reveal barrier layer within a warm core
eddy. J. Geophys. Res.-Oceans122(2), 1057–1071.
https://doi.org/10.1002/2016JC012339
Shanas, P. R., Aboobacker, V. M., Albarakati, A. M., Zubier, K. M., 2017.
Climate driven variability of wind-waves in the Red Sea. Ocean Model.
119, 105–117.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ocemod.2017.10.001
Shenoi, S. S. C., Shankar, D., Shetye, S. R., 2002.
Differences in heat
budgets of the near-surface Arabian Sea and Bay of Bengal: Implications for the
summer monsoon. J. Geophys. Res.-Oceans 107(C6), 5–11.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2000JC000679
Shenoi, S. S. C., Shankar, D., Shetye, S. R., 2004.
Remote forcing
annihilates barrier layer in southeastern Arabian Sea. Geophys. Res. Lett.
31(5).
https://doi.org/10.1029/2003GL019270
Silva, A., Araujo, M., Medeiros, C., Silva, M., Bourles, B., 2005.
Seasonal
changes in the mixed and barrier layers in the western equatorial
Atlantic. Brazilian J. Oceanogr. 53, 83–98.
https://www.scielo.br/j/bjoce/a/Gtt9H7qnKVRJvhHhdch6NJy/
Sofianos, S. S., Johns, W. E., 2003.
An oceanic general circulation model
(OGCM) investigation of the Red Sea circulation: 2. Three-dimensional
circulation in the Red Sea. J. Geophys. Res.-Oceans 108(C3).
https://doi.org/10.1029/2001JC001185
Sofianos, S., Johns, W.E., 2015.
Water mass formation, Ooverturning
circulation, and the exchange of the Red Sea with the adjacent basins.
[In:] Rasul, N., Stewart, I. (eds.), The Red Sea. Springer Earth Sys. Sci.
Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg.
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-662-45201-1_20
Sprintall, J., Cronin, M. F., 2001.
Upper ocean vertical structure. https://doi.org/10.1006/rwos.2001.0149
Sprintall, J., Tomczak, M., 1992.
Evidence of the barrier layer in the
surface layer of the tropics. J. Geophys. Res.-Oceans 97(C5), 7305–7316.
https://doi.org/10.1029/92JC00407
Thadathil, P., Muraleedharan, P. M., Rao, R. R., Somayajulu, Y. K., Reddy, G.
V., Revichandran, C., 2007.
Observed seasonal variability of barrier layer
in the Bay of Bengal. J. Geophys. Res.-Oceans 112(C2).
https://doi.org/10.1029/2006JC003651
Thadathil, P., Thoppil, P., Rao, R. R., et al., 2008.
Seasonal variability
of the observed barrier layer in the Arabian Sea. J. Phys. Oceanogr.
38(3), 624–638.
https://doi.org/10.1175/2007JPO3798.1
Vialard, J., Delec luse, P., 1998.
An OGCM study for the TOGA decade. Pt.
I: Role of salinity in the physics of the western Pacific fresh pool. J.
Phys. Oceanogr. 28(6), 1071–1088.
https://doi.org/10.1175/1520-0485(1998)028<1071:AOSFTT>2.0.CO;2
Yao, F., Hoteit, I., Pratt, L. J., Bower, A. S., Zhai, P., Khl, A.,
Gopalakrishnan, G., 2014.
Seasonal overturning circulation in the Red Sea:
1. Model validation and summer circulation. J. Geophys. Res.-Oceans 119
(4), 2238–2262.
https://doi.org/10.1002/2013JC009004
Yao, F., Hoteit, I., Pratt, L. J., Bower, A. S., K표̈hl, A., Gopalakrishnan,
G., Rivas, D., 2014b.
Seasonal overturning circulation in the Red Sea: 2.
Winter circulation. J. Geophys. Res.-Oceans 119(4), 2263–2289.
https://doi.org/10.1002/2013JC009331
Zarokanellos, N. D., K푢̈ rten, B., Churchill, J. H., Roder, C., Voolstra, C.
R., Abualnaja, Y., Jones, B. H., 2017.
Physical mechanisms routing
nutrients in the central Red Sea. J. Geophys. Res.-Oceans 122(11),
9032–9046.
https://doi.org/10.1002/2017JC013017
Zeng, L., Wang, D., 2017.
Seasonal variations in the barrier layer in the
South China Sea: characteristics, mechanisms and impact of warming.
Climate Dynam. 48(5), 1911–1930.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s00382-016-3182-8
Zhai, P., Bower, A., 2013.
The response of the Red Sea to a strong wind jet
near the Tokar Gap in summer. J. Geophys. Res.-Oceans 118(1), 421–434.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2012JC008444n
Zhan, P., Krokos, G., Guo, D., Hoteit, I, 2019.
Three-dimensional signature
of the Red Sea eddies and eddy-induced transport. Geophys. Res. Lett.
46(4), 2167–2177.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2018GL081387
Zhan, P., Subramanian, A. C., Yao, F., Hoteit, I., 2014.
Eddies in the Red
Sea: A statistical and dynamical study. J. Geophys. Res.-Oceans 119(6),
3909–3925.
https://doi.org/10.1002/2013JC009563
Coupled current-wave simulation reveals sea surface heat fluxes responses to diurnal skin sea surface temperature modulation in the Sunda Strait
Oceanologia, 68 (2)/2026, 68206, 20 pp.
https://doi.org/10.5697/WMRG9198
Eko Supriyadi1,2, Tania June1,*, Agus Saleh Atmadipoera3, Andri Ramdhani4
1Department of Geophysics and Meteorology, Faculty of Mathematics and Natural Sciences, IPB University, Darmaga, Bogor, 16680, Indonesia;
e-mail: taniajune@apps.ipb.ac.id (T. June)
2Marine Meteorology Center, BMKG, Kemayoran, Jakarta, 10610, Indonesia
3Department of Marine Science and Technology, Faculty of Fisheries and Marine Science, IPB University, Darmaga, Bogor, 16680, Indonesia
4Public Meteorology Center, BMKG, Kemayoran, Jakarta, 10610, Indonesia
*corresponding author
Keywords:
Skin SST; Wind speed; Sea surface energy balance; Sunda Strait; ROMS; SWAN
Received: 1 September 2025; revised: 7 December 2025; accepted: 23 January 2026
Highlights
- This study applied a coupled ROMS–SWAN model to simulate cool skin and warm layer effects in the Sunda Strait, advancing understanding of SST variability.
- The cool skin effect averaged –0.2°C, showed strong diurnal variability, and decreased to ~ –0.1°C at wind speeds above 8 m s-1.
- A two-step correction based on wind speed and diurnal cycle effectively converted bulk SST to skin SST by removing both effects.
- The model revealed high correlations (up to 0.88 in the Java Sea) between combined effects and wind speed, with regional contrasts.
- Findings highlight skin SST as essential for tropical strait air–sea flux studies and improving parameterization schemes.
Abstract
The Sunda Strait, a critical interoceanic conduit between the Pacific and Indian Oceans, exhibits a unique relationship between the skin SST (Ts) and the sea surface energy balance. This study aims to model the cool skin (ΔTc) and warm layer (ΔTw) using a coupled Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS) and the Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) model. The focus is on analyzing the characteristics of ΔTc and ΔTw, quantifying the diurnal variability of the ΔTc, developing a correction of the bulk SST (Tb) to Ts, and analyzing the sea surface energy balance relative to Ts. Results show that the ΔTc layer contributes an average cooling of −0.2°C that varies diurnally and increases with wind speed (U10) up to 8 m s−1 and stabilizes near −0.1°C. A two-step correction based on U10 and the diurnal cycle was applied to minimize the discrepancy between Tb and Ts, successfully eliminating the combined influence of ΔTc and ΔTw (ΔTcw). Compared to other models, the proposed model shows a high correlation between ΔTcw and U10 in
the Indian Ocean, Sunda Strait, and Java Sea of 0.69, 0.74, and 0.88, respectively. This study also shows that Ts has an ocean regimes and seasonal relationship context with U10, net shortwave flux (Rcw), net longwave flux (Rlw), net sensible heat flux (Rshf), and net latent heat flux (Rlhf). These findings establish Ts as a critical diagnostic parameter for understanding air-sea fluxes in tropical strait systems.
References
Alappattu, D.P., Wang, Q., Yamaguchi, R., Lind, R.J., Reynolds, M., Christman,
A.J., 2017.
Warm layer and cool skin corrections for bulk water temperature
measurements for air-sea interaction studies. J. Geophys. Res. Oceans 122,
6470–6481.
https://doi.org/10.1002/2017JC012688
Casey, K.S., Brandon, T.B., Cornillon, P., Evans, R., 2010.
The Past,
Present, and Future of the AVHRR Pathfinder SST Program. [in:] Barale, V.,
Gower, J.F.R., Alberotanza, L. (Eds.), Oceanography from Space: Revisited,
Springer, Dordrecht, 273–287.
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-90-481-8681-5_16
Chakraborty, K., Joshi, A.P., Ghoshal, P.K., Ghosh, J., Akhand, A.,
Bhattacharya, T., Sreeush, M.G., Valsala, V., 2023.
Mechanisms and drivers
controlling spatio-temporal evolution of pCO2 and air-sea CO2 fluxes in the
southern Java coastal upwelling system. Estuar. Coast. Shelf Sci. 293,
108509.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ecss.2023.108509
Chu, H., Cao, C., Wang, W., Xiao, W., Zhang, K., Zhang, M., Lee, X., 2024.
The Land Wet-Bulb Temperature Increases Faster Than the Sea Surface
Temperature. Geophys. Res. Lett. 51, e2023GL106617.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2023GL106617
Cronin, M.F., Gentemann, C.L., Edson, J., Ueki, I., Bourassa, M., Brown, S.,
Clayson, C.A., Fairall, C.W., Farrar, J.T., Gille, S.T., Gulev, S., Josey,
S.A., Kato, S., Katsumata, M., Kent, E., Krug, M., Minnett, P.J., Parfitt, R.,
Pinker, R.T., Stackhouse, P.W., Swart, S., Tomita, H., Vandemark, D., Weller,
A.R., Yoneyama, K., Yu, L., Zhang, D., 2019.
Air-Sea Fluxes With a Focus on
Heat and Momentum. Front. Mar. Sci. 6.
https://doi.org/10.3389/fmars.2019.00430
de Moura, C.A., Kubrusly, C.S., 2013. The Courant–Friedrichs–Lewy (CFL)
Condition 80 Years After Its Discovery. Birkhäuser, 249 pp. Donlon, C.,
Robinson, I.S., Wimmer, W., Fisher, G., Reynolds, M., Edwards, R., Nightingale,
T.J., 2008.
An Infrared Sea Surface Temperature Autonomous Radiometer
(ISAR) for Deployment aboard Volunteer Observing Ships (VOS). J. Atmos.
Ocean. Technol. 25, 93–113.
https://doi.org/10.1175/2007JTECHO505.1
Donlon, C.J., Minnett, P.J., Gentemann, C., Nightingale, T.J., Barton, I.J.,
Ward, B., Murray, M.J., 2002.
Toward Improved Validation of Satellite Sea
Surface Skin Temperature Measurements for Climate Research. J. Clim. 15,
353–369.
https://doi.org/10.1175/1520-0442(2002)015<0353:TIVOSS>2.0.CO;2
Fairall, C.W., Bradley, E.F., Godfrey, J.S., Wick, G.A., Edson, J.B., Young,
G.S., 1996a.
Cool-skin and warm-layer effects on sea surface temperature.
J. .Geophys. Res. Oceans 101, 1295–1308.
https://doi.org/10.1029/95JC03190
Fairall, C.W., Bradley, E.F., Rogers, D.P., Edson, J.B., Young, G.S., 1996b.
Bulk parameterization of air-sea fluxes for Tropical Ocean-Global
Atmosphere Coupled-Ocean Atmosphere Response Experiment. J. Geophys. Res.
Oceans 101, 3747–3764.
https://doi.org/10.1029/95JC03205
Fernández, P., Speich, S., Borgnino, M., Meroni, A.N., Desbiolles, F.,
Pasquero, C., 2023.
On the importance of the atmospheric coupling to the
small-scale ocean in the modulation of latent heat flux. Front. Mar. Sci.
10, 1136558.
https://doi.org/10.3389/fmars.2023.1136558
Ganeshan, M., Wu, D.L., 2016.
The open-ocean sensible heat flux and its
significance for Arctic boundary layer mixing during early fall. Atmos.
Chem. Phys. 16, 13173–13184.
https://doi.org/10.5194/acp-16-13173-2016
Gentemann, C.L., Minnett, P.J., 2008.
Radiometric measurements of ocean
surface thermal variability. J. Geophys. Res. Oceans 113.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2007JC004540
Haryanto, Y., Agdialta, R., Hartoko, A., Anggoro, S., Zainuri, M., 2019.
Effect of the Monsoon to Sea Surface Temperature in the Java Sea.
[in:] Proceedings of the International Conference on Maritime and Archipelago
(ICoMA 2018), Atlantis Press, 86–89.
https://doi.org/10.2991/icoma-18.2019.19
Hersbach, H., Bell, B., Berrisford, P., Hirahara, S., Horányi, A.,
Muñoz-Sabater, J., Nicolas, J., Peubey, C., Radu, R., Schepers, D., Simmons,
A., Soci, C., Abdalla, S., Abellan, X., Balsamo, G., Bechtold, P., Biavati, G.,
Bidlot, J., Bonavita, M., De Chiara, G., Dahlgren, P., Dee, D., Diamantakis,
M., Dragani, R., Flemming, J., Forbes, R., Fuentes, M., Geer, A., Haimberger,
L., Healy, S., Hogan, R.J., Hólm, E., Janisková, M., Keeley, S., Laloyaux,
P., Lopez, P., Lupu, C., Radnoti, G., de Rosnay, P., Rozum, I., Vamborg, F.,
Villaume, S., Thépaut, J.-N., 2020.
The ERA5 global reanalysis. Q.
J. Roy. Meteor. Soc. 146, 1999–2049.
https://doi.org/10.1002/qj.3803
Hsu, P.-C., 2022.
Evaluation of Wind and Solar Insolation Influence on
Ocean Near-Surface Temperature From in Situ Observations and the Geostationary
Himawari-8 Satellite. Remote Sens (Basel). 14, (19), 4975.
https://doi.org/10.3390/rs14194975
Huang, B., Liu, C., Banzon, V., Freeman, E., Graham, G., Hankins, B., Smith,
T., Zhang, H.-M., 2021.
Improvements of the Daily Optimum Interpolation Sea
Surface Temperature (DOISST) Version 2.1. J. Clim. 34, 2923–2939.
https://doi.org/10.1175/JCLI-D-20-0166.1
Hussein, M.M.A., 2022.
Relationship Between Latent Heat Flux and Sea
Surface Temperature in Alexandria Eastern Harbor, Egypt. Turk. J. Fish.
Aquat. Sci. 22 (6), TRJFAS20642.
http://doi.org/10.4194/TRJFAS20642
Iversen, S.C., Sperrevik, A.K., Goux, O., 2023.
Improving sea surface
temperature in a regional ocean model through refined sea surface temperature
assimilation. Ocean Sci. 19, 729–744.
https://doi.org/10.5194/os-19-729-2023
Jessup, A.T., Branch, R., 2008.
Integrated Ocean Skin and Bulk Temperature
Measurements Using the Calibrated Infrared In Situ Measurement System (CIRIMS)
and Through-Hull Ports. J. Atmos. Ocean. Tech. 25, 579–597.
https://doi.org/10.1175/2007JTECHO479.1
Kang, E.-J., Sohn, B.-J., Kim, S.-W., Kim, W., Kwon, Y.-C., Kim, S.-B., Chun,
H.-W., Liu, C., 2024.
A revised ocean mixed layer model for better
simulating the diurnal variation in ocean skin temperature. Geosci. Model
Dev. 17, 8553–8568.
https://doi.org/10.5194/gmd-17-8553-2024
Komen, G.J., Hasselmann, S., Hasselmann, K., 1984.
On the existence of a
fully developed wind-sea spectrum. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 14, 1271–1285. Li,
Z., Guan, L., Chen, R., 2023. Sea surface skin temperature retrieval from HY-1D
COCTS observations. Front. Mar. Sci. 10.
https://doi.org/10.3389/fmars.2023.1205776
Lofgren, B.M., 1995.
Sensitivity of Land–Ocean Circulations,
Precipitation, and Soil Moisture to Perturbed Land Surface Albedo. J. Clim. 8 (10), 2521–2542.
https://doi.org/10.1175/1520-0442(1995)008<2521:SOLCPA>2.0.CO;2
Luo, B., Minnett, P.J., Szczodrak, M., Akella, S., 2022.
Regional and
Seasonal Variability of the Oceanic Thermal Skin Effect. J. Geophys. Res.
Oceans 127, e2022JC018465.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2022JC018465
Minnett, P.J., 2003.
Radiometric measurements of the seasurface skin
temperature: the competing roles of the diurnal thermocline and the cool
skin. Int. J. Remote Sens. 24, 5033–5047.
https://doi.org/10.1080/0143116031000095880
Minnett, P.J., Knuteson, R.O., Best, F.A., Osborne, B.J., Hanafin, J.A., Brown,
O.B., 2001.
The Marine-Atmospheric Emitted Radiance Interferometer: A
High-Accuracy, Seagoing Infrared Spectroradiometer. J. Atmos. .Ocean Tech.
18, 994–1013.
https://doi.org/10.1175/1520-0426(2001)018<0994:TMAERI>2.0.CO;2
Minnett, P.J., Smith, M., Ward, B., 2011.
Measurements of the oceanic
thermal skin effect. Deep Sea Res. Pt II, 58, 861–868.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.dsr2.2010.10.024
Murray, M.J., Allen, M.R., Merchant, C.J., Harris, A.R., Donlon, C.J., 2000.
Direct observations of skin-bulk SST variability. Geophys. Res. Lett.
27, 1171–1174.
https://doi.org/10.1029/1999GL011133
Olabarrieta, M., Warner, J.C., Kumar, N., 2011. Wave-current interaction in
Willapa Bay. J. Geophys. Res. Oceans 116.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2011JC007387
Pawlowicz, R., Beardsley, B., Lentz, S., 2002.
Classical tidal harmonic
analysis including error estimates in MATLAB using T_TIDE. Comput. Geosci.
28, 929–937.
https://doi.org/10.1016/S0098-3004(02)00013-4
Pimentel, S., Tse, W.-H., Xu, H., Denaxa, D., Jansen, E., Korres, G., Mirouze,
I., Storto, A., 2019.
Modeling the Near-Surface Diurnal Cycle of Sea
Surface Temperature in the Mediterranean Sea. J. Geophys. Res. Oceans 124,
171–183.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2018JC014289
Pinker, R.T., Bentamy, A., Katsaros, K.B., Ma, Y., Li, C., 2014.
Estimates
of net heat fluxes over the Atlantic Ocean. J. Geophys. Res. Oceans 119,
410–427.
https://doi.org/10.1002/2013JC009386
Putri, M.R., 2005.
Study of Ocean Climate Variability (1959–2002) in the
Eastern Indian Ocean, Java Sea and Sunda Strait Using the HAMburg Shelf Ocean
Model. Ph.D. Dissertation, Hamburg Univ., 104 pp.
Saha, K., Zhao, X., Zhang, H., Casey, K.S., Zhang, D., Baker-Yeboah, S.,
Kilpatrick, K.A., Evans, R.H., Ryan, T., Relph, J.M., 2025.
AVHRR
Pathfinder version 5.3 level 3 collated (L3C) global 4km sea surface
temperature for 1981–2023. NOAA National Centers for Environmental
Information [www document].
Saunders, P.M., 1967a.
The Temperature at the Ocean-Air Interface. J.
Atmos. Sci. 24, 269–273.
https://doi.org/10.1175/1520-0469(1967)024<0269:TTATOA>2.0.CO;2
Saunders, P.M., 1967b.
Aerial measurement of sea surface temperature in the
infrared. J. Geophys. Res. 72 (16), 4109–4117.
https://doi.org/10.1029/JZ072i016p04109
Siregar, S., Yuliadi, L., Purba, N.P., Pranowo, W., Syamsuddin, M., 2017.
Pertukaran massa air di Laut Jawa terhadap periodisitas monsun dan Arlindo
pada tahun 2015. Depik 6, 44–59.
https://doi.org/10.13170/depik.6.1.5523
Song, X., 2023.
Observed Opposite Fall-to-Winter Variations in the Air-Sea
Latent Heat Flux Between the Western Boundary Currents and Coastal Seas.
Geophys. Res. Lett. 50, e2022GL100875.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2022GL100875
Sun, X., Wu, R., 2021.
Seasonality and time scale dependence of the
relationship between turbulent surface heat flux and SST. Clim. Dynam. 56,
3173–3186.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s00382-021-05631-0
Takaya, Y., Bidlot, J.-R., Beljaars, A.C.M., Janssen, P.A.E.M., 2010.
Refinements to a prognostic scheme of skin sea surface temperature. J.
Geophys. Res Oceans 115.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2009JC005985
Tomita, H., Senjyu, T., Kubota, M., 2016.
Evaluation of airsea sensible and
latent heat fluxes over the Japan Sea obtained from satellite, atmospheric
reanalysis, and objective analysis products. J. Oceanogr. 72, 747–760.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s10872-016-0368-y
Wang, K., Dickinson, R.E., 2013.
Global atmospheric downward longwave
radiation at the surface from groundbased observations, satellite retrievals,
and reanalyses. Rev. Geophys. 51, 150–185.
https://doi.org/10.1002/rog.20009
Ward, B., 2006.
Near-surface ocean temperature. J. Geophys. Res.
Oceans 111.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2004JC002689
Willmott, C.J., Ackleson, S.G., Davis, R.E., Feddema, J.J., Klink, K.M.,
Legates, D.R., O’Donnell, J., Rowe, C.M., 1985.
Statistics for the
evaluation and comparison of models. J. Geophys. Res. Oceans 90,
8995–9005.
https://doi.org/10.1029/JC090iC05p08995
Yan, Y., Wang, G., Wang, X.H., Chen, C., Ling, Z., Zhang, L., 2023.
Relationship between subsurface diurnal warming and wind speed. Deep
Sea Res. Pt. I, 199, 104106.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.dsr.2023.104106
Yan, Y., Zhang, L., Song, X., Wang, G., Chen, C., 2021.
Diurnal Variation
in Surface Latent Heat Flux and the Effect of Diurnal Variability on the
Climatological Latent Heat Flux over the Tropical Oceans. J. Phys.
Oceanogr. 51, 3401–3415.
https://doi.org/10.1175/JPO-D-21-0128.1
Yang, M., Guan, L., Qu, L., Zhang, K., 2023.
Cool skin effect and warm skin
phenomenon observed by shipboard radiometer in the Northwest Pacific.
Front. Mar. Sci. 10.
https://doi.org/10.3389/fmars.2023.1212974
Yu, L., 2018.
Sea Surface Exchanges of Momentum, Heat, and Freshwater
Determined by Satellite Remote Sensing. [In:] Cochran, J.K., Bokuniewicz,
H.J., Yager, P.L. (Eds.), Encyclopedia of Ocean Sciences, Vol. 1, 3rd Edn.,
Acad. Press, 15–23.
https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-12-409548-9.11458-7
Zeng, X., Beljaars, A., 2005.
A prognostic scheme of sea surface skin
temperature for modeling and data assimilation. Geophys. Res. Lett. 32.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2005GL023030
Zhang, H., Babanin, A.V, Liu, Q., Ignatov, A., 2019.
Cool skin signals
observed from Advanced Along-Track Scanning Radiometer (AATSR) and in situ SST
measurements. Remote Sens. Environ. 226, 38–50.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.rse.2019.03.035
Zhang, H., Beggs, H., Ignatov, A., Babanin, A.V., 2020.
Nighttime Cool Skin
Effect Observed from Infrared SST Autonomous Radiometer (ISAR) and Depth
Temperatures. J. Atmos. Ocean. Tech. 37, 33–46.
https://doi.org/10.1175/JTECH-D-19-0161.1
Zhang, R., Zhou, F., Wang, X., Wang, D., Gulev, S.K., 2021.
Cool Skin
Effect and its Impact on the Computation of the Latent Heat Flux in the South
China Sea. J. Geophys. Res. Oceans 126, 2020JC016498.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2020JC016498
Seabed saturation conditions from in-situ
measurements performed on Norderney
Oceanologia, 68 (2)/2026, 68207, 17 pp.
https://doi.org/10.5697/YIAX1215
Waldemar Magda
Department of Geotechnical and Hydraulic Engineering, Gdańsk University of Technology, 11/12 Gabriela Narutowicza Street, 80-233
Gdańsk, Poland;
e-mail: waldemar.magda@pg.edu.pl (W. Magda)
Keywords:
Coastal engineering; Intertidal zone; Partly saturated seabed; Degree of saturation; In-situ seabed sampling; Statistical analysis
Received: 13 July 2025; revised: 18 January 2026; accepted: 23 February 2026
Highlights
- A very unique seabed sampling performed on Norderney has indicated the mean value of the degree of saturation equal to S̄r = 0.973.
- A possible range of variation 0.962 ≤ S̄r ≤ 0.986 has been found, based on the analysis of propagation of uncertainties and assuming the annual variability of seawater conditions.
- The spatial analysis has indicated an increasing tendency in Sr values when moving from the high tide line towards the low tide line, regardless of the direction of seabed sampling.
- It has been proven that there is no significant difference between the means of the degree of saturation, calculated for the ebbing (dewatering) and flooding phases of the tidal cycle.
- The assumption of normal (Gaussian) distribution in relation to the variability of the degree of saturation has been proved in normality tests.
- The obtained S̄r values are higher than the values adopted by many authors in their wave-induced seabed response computations.
Abstract
This paper deals with an important coastal engineering problem of defining proper seabed saturation conditions, which
have a significant influence on the pore-fluid compressibility and the wave-induced cyclic response of poro-elastic seabed
sediments. A unique in-situ measuring campaign was conducted in the tidal zone of the northern beach of Norderney,
off the North Sea coast of Germany, where 186 sandy seabed samples were taken underwater. Based on the laboratory
measurements, a set of calculated saturation degrees was statistically analyzed. Both the histogram and the normal
Q-Q plot, as well as the Shapiro-Wilk normality test, confirmed the validity of the assumption of the normal probability
distribution for the variability of the degree of saturation. The mean degree of saturation of the top layer of the se
usabed, (S̄r) = 0.973, constitutes the main output of the study, whereas the uncertainty propagation analysis enabled
to define the possible range of variation, which is 0.962 ≤ (S̄r) ≤ 0.986. It should be clearly emphasised that a proper
assessment of the seabed saturation conditions is very important, mainly due to the correctness of the description of
the wave-induced pore-fluid pressure field used in more detailed analyses of the pore-fluid pressure gradients and the
liquefaction potential of the seabed, which have a direct impact on phenomena such as sand transport on beaches,
seabed erosion, and stability of coastal structures (e.g. breakwaters and submarine buried pipelines).
References
Bendat, J.S., Piersol, A.G., 1971.
Random Data: Analysis and Measurement
Procedures. John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 200 pp.
https://ia801506.us.archive.org/15/items/in.ernet.dli.2015.134197/2015.134197.Random-Data-Analysis-And-Measurement-Procedures.pdf
Craig, R.F., 2004.
Craig’s Soil Mechanics. Seventh edition, Spon
Press, Taylor & Francis Group, London, New York, 460 pp.
https://doi.org/10.4324/9780203494103
Eichmanns, C., Schüttrumpf, H., 2021.
Influence of sand trapping fences
on dune toe growth and its relation with potential aeolian sediment
transport. J. Marine Sci. Eng. (MDPI) 9, 850, 1–30.
https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse9080850
Fox, J., 2016.
Applied Regression Analysis and Generalized Linear
Models. SAGE Publ. Inc., Los Angeles (3rd edn.), 791 pp.
https://dokumen.pub/applied-regression-analysis-and-generalized-linear-models-3nbsped-1452205663-9781452205663.html
Gill, A.E., 1982.
Atmosphere-Ocean Dynamics. Int. Geophys. Ser. 30.
Acad. Press, San Diego, Ca., London, 662 pp.
https://archive.org/details/AtmosphereOceanDynamicsGillHsu
J.R.C., Jeng, D.S., 1994.
Wave-induced soil response in an unsaturated
anisotropic seabed of finite thickness. Int. J. Numer. Anal. Meth.
Geomech. 18, 785–807.
https://doi.org/10.1002/nag.1610181104
Jeng, D.S., 2013.
Porous Models for Wave-seabed Interactions.
Springer, Heidelberg, New York Dordrecht London, 289 pp.
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-33593-8
Jeng, D.S., 2018.
Mechanics of Wave-Seabed-Structure Interactions.
Modelling, Processes and Applications. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge,
358 pp.
https://doi.org/10.1017/9781316672266
Kell, G.S., 1975.
Density, thermal expansivity, and compressibility of
liquid water from 0°C to 150°C: correlations and tables for atmospheric
pressure and saturation reviewed and expressed on 1968 temperature scale.
J. Chem. Eng. Data 20, 97–105.
http://www.bioconsult.ch/Inovatech/W-Lehre/J+Che+Eng+Dat20,+97.pdf
Madsen, O.S., 1978.
Wave-induced pore pressures and effective stresses in a
porous bed. Géotechnique 28, 377–393.
https://doi.org/10.1680/geot.1978.28.4.377
Magda, W., 1992.
Wave-induced pore pressure acting on a buried submarine
pipeline. Proc. 23th Conf. Coas. Eng. (ICCE 1992), Am. Soc. Civil Eng.
4–9 October 1992, Venice, Italy, 3135–3148.
https://doi.org/10.1061/9780872629332.239
Magda, W., 1994.
Analytical solution for the wave-induced excess
pore-pressure in a finite-thickness seabed layer. Proc. 24th Conf. Coast.
Eng. (ICCE 1994), ASCE, 23–28 October 1994, Kobe, Japan, 3111–3125.
https://doi.org/10.1061/9780784400890.225
Magda, W. 1997.
Wave-induced uplift force on a submarine pipeline buried in
a compressible seabed. Ocean Eng. 24(6), 551–576.
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0029801896000315
Magda, W., 1998.
Wave-Induced Pore Pressure Oscillations in Sandy Seabed
Sediments. Ph.D. thes., Tech. Univ. Gdańsk, Marine Civil Eng. Depart.,
Gdańsk, Poland, 170 pp.
https://mostwiedzy.pl/pl/publication/wave-induced-pore-pressure-oscillations-in-sandy-seabed-sediments,75377-1
Magda, W., 2000.
Wave-induced cyclic pore-pressure perturbation effects in
hydrodynamic uplift force acting on submarine pipeline buried in seabed
sediments. Coast. Eng. 39(2–4), 243–272.
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0378383999000630
Magda, W., 2025.
Criticism of the analytical solutions to the wave-induced
cyclic response of a poro-elstic seabed of finite thickness. Arch.
Hydro-Eng. Environ. Mech. 72(1), 51–74.
https://doi.org/10.2478/heem-2025-0004
Mei, C.C., Foda, M.A., 1981.
Wave-induced responses in a fluid-filled
poroelastic solid with a free surface – a boundary layer theory.
Geophys. J. Royal Astronom. Soc. 66, 597–631.
https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-246X.1981.tb04892.x
Merxhani, A., Liang, D., 2012.
Investigation of the poroelastic response of
seabed to solitary. Proc. 22Nd (2012) Int. Offshore Polar Eng. Conf.,
Rhodes, Greece, June 17–22, 2012, 101–108.
https://onepetro.org/ISOPEIOPEC/proceedings-abstract/ISOPE12/ISOPE12/ISOPE-I-12-433/12908?redirectedFrom=PDF
Michallet, H., Mory, M., Piedra-Cueva, I., 2009.
Wave-induced pore pressure
measurements near a coastal structures. J. Geophys. Res. 114(C06019),
1–18.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2008JC005071
Nago, H., Maeno, S., 1984.
Pore water pressure in sand bed under
oscillating water pressure. Memoirs School Eng. 19(1), Okayama Univ.,
Tsushima, Okayama, Japan, 13–32.
https://files01.core.ac.uk/download/pdf/12528934.pdf
Niemeyer, H.D., 1992.
Die ursächliche Deutung van Transpanphänomenen als
Gestaltungsgrundlage für Strandauffüllungen. [In:] Die Küste 54,
Heide, Holstein: Boyens, 53–92.
https://henry.baw.de/items/c00bb39e-4230-41fa-9f00-047a9f15a341
Okusa, S., 1985.
Wave-induced stresses in unsaturated submarine
sediments. Géotechnique 35, 517–532.
https://doi.org/10.1680/geot.1985.35.4.517
Ooura, T., 1996.
Gamma and Error functions. Computer codes in C and
Fortran. https://www.kurims.kyoto-u.ac.jp/~ooura/gamerf.html
Press, W.H., Teukolsky, S.A., Vetterling, W.T., Flannery, B.P., 1997.
Numerical Recipes in Fortran 77. The Art of Scientific Computing,
Fortran Numerical Recipes Vol. 1, Cambridge Univ. Press, 973 pp.
https://belglas.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/numericalrecipesinf77.pdf
Quante, M., Colijn, F, 2016.
North Sea Region Climate Change
Assessment, Springer Nature, 528 pp.
https://link.springer.com/book/10.1007/978-3-319-39745-0
Richwien, W., Magda, W., 1994.
Design Levels For Offshore Structure.
State-of-the-Art and Instantenous Pore-Pressure Model. Forschungsbereich
aus dem Fachbereich Bauwesen, Universität, Heft 63, Gesamthochschule Essen,
Essen, 103 pp.
https://cloud.wilis.pg.edu.pl/index.php/s/PsLTJzk4CMrAEED
Royston, P., 1982.
An extension of Shapiro and Wilk’s W test for
normality to large samples. J. Royal Stat. Soc. Ser. C 31(2), 115–124.
https://www.jstor.org/stable/2347973
Sandven, R., Husby, E., Husby, J.E., Jönland, J., Roksvåg, K.O., Staehli,
F., Tellugen, R., 2007.
Development of a sampler for measurement of gas
content in soils. J. Water. Port Coast. Ocean Eng. 133(1), 3–13.
https://ascelibrary.org/doi/abs/10.1061/%28ASCE%290733-950X%282007%29133%3A1%283%29
Schmertmann, J.H., 1989.
Density tests above zero air voids line. J.
Geotech.Eng. 115, 1003–1018.
https://doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)0733-9410(1989)1
15:7(1003)
Sumer, B.M., 2014.
Liquefaction Around Marine Structures, World
Scientific, New Jersey, 472 pp.
https://doi.org/10.1142/7986
Tørum , A., 2007.
Wave-induced pore pressures Air/gas content. J.
Water. Port Coast. Ocean Eng. 133(1), 83–86.
https://ascelibrary.org/doi/10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(2007)133%3A1(83)
Ulker, M.B.C., Rahman, M.S., 2009.
Response of saturated and nearly
saturated porous media: Different formulations and their applicability.
Int. J. Numerical Analy. Methods Geomech. 33(5), 633–664.
https://doi.org/10.1002/nag.739
Verruijt, A., 1969.
Elastic storage of aquifers. [In:] R. J. M.
DeWiest, (ed.), Flow Through Porous Media, Acad. Press, New York, London,
331–376.
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/258354880
Wikipedia.com, 2025.
Norderney. https://pl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Norderney
Yamamoto, T., Koning, H.L., Sellmeijer, H., Hijum, E., 1978.
On the
response of a poro-elastic bed to water waves. J. Fluid Mech. 87,
193–206.
https://doi.org/10.1017/S0022112078003006
Limited effect of the electromagnetic field associated with submarine power cables on the growth of the Baltic macroalgae
Oceanologia, 68 (2)/2026, 68208, 11 pp.
https://doi.org/10.5697/HBPW8897
Magdalena Jakubowska-Lehrmann1,*, Aleksandra Zgrundo2,*, Daniel Czmajduch2, Zbigniew Otremba3
1National Marine Fisheries Research Institute, Kołłątaja 1, 81-332 Gdynia, Poland;
e-mail: mjakubowska@mir.gdynia.pl (M. Jakubowska-Lehrmann)
2Division of Marine Ecosystems Functioning, Faculty of Oceanography and Geography, University of Gdańsk,
Al. Piłsudskiego 46, 81-378 Gdynia, Poland;
e-mail: aleksandra.zgrundo@ug.edu.pl (A. Zgrundo)
3Department of Physics, Gdynia Maritime University, Morska 81-87, 81-225, Gdynia, Poland
*corresponding author
Keywords:
Electromagnetic field; Submarine cables; Offshore wind farms; Fucus vesiculosus; Furcellaria lumbricalis; Ocean Multi-Use
Received: 6 October 2025; revised: 23 February 2026; accepted: 2 March 2026
Highlights
- We assessed the effects of electromagnetic field (EMF) on two macroalgae species
- EMF had a limited effect on the growth of Fucus vesiculosus and Furcellaria lumbricalis
- EMF did not affect nutrient uptake rates of both species
- No changes were recorded in water and organic matter content
Abstract
Magnetic fields generated by submarine cables and marine renewable energy devices may negatively affect organisms living nearby. At the same time, the number of projects related to the strategic integration of low-trophic aquaculture within offshore wind farms is increasing. As there is a complete lack of information on the effects of magnetic fields on macroalgae, in our study, we investigated the effects of an electromagnetic field (EMF; 50 Hz, 1 mT) on the basic indicators of macroalgal functioning in two Baltic species of commercial value, Fucus vesiculosus and Furcellaria lumbricalis. EMF had a limited effect on the growth of both species. No changes were observed in nutrient uptake rates, water content, or organic matter content.
References
Adler, I., Martin, G., Kovalchuk, N., Orav-Kotta, H., Vene, K., Tuvikene, R.,
Kotta, J., 2025.
Exploring the cultivation of Ulva intestinalis in
low-salinity environments of the Baltic Sea. Oceans 6(2), 30.
https://doi.org/10.3390/oceans6020030
Al-Janabi, B., 2016.
The adaptive potential of early life stage Fucus
vesiculosus under multifactorial environmental change. Ph.D. thes.,
Christian Albrecht's Univ., Kiel.
Armoškaitė, A., Bārda, I., Andersone, I., Bonnevie, I. M., Ikauniece, A.,
Kotta, J., Kõivupuu, A., Lees, L., Psuty, I., Strāke, S., Sprukta, S.,
Szymanek, L., von Thenen, M., Schroder, L., Hansen, H. S., 2021.
Considerations of use-use interactions between macroalgae cultivation and
other maritime sectors: An eastern Baltic MSP case study. Sustainability
13(24), 13888.
https://doi.org/10.3390/su132413888
Asundi, S., Rout, S., Stephen, S., Khandual, S., Dutta, S., Kumar, S., 2024.
Parametric study of the effect of increased magnetic field exposure on
microalgae Chlorella vulgaris growth and bioactive compound production.
Phycology 4(2), 314–329.
https://doi.org/10.3390/phycology4020016
Austin, A. P., 1960.
Observations on Furcellaria fastigiata (L.) Lam. forma
aegagropila Reinke in Danish waters together with a note on other unattached
algal forms. Hydrobiologia 14, 255–277. Bäck, S., Collins, J. C.,
Russell, G., 1992. Effects of salinity on the growth of Baltic and Atlantic
Fucus vesiculosus. Br. Phycol. J. 27(1), 39–47.
Balazy, P., Wiktor, J., Tatarek, A., Węsławski, J. M., 2024.
Apparent
return of free-living Fucus vesiculosus to the Polish Baltic waters.
Oceanologia 66(2), 424–428.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.oceano.2024.02.004
Billing, S.-L., Charalambides, G., Tett, P., Giordano, M., Ruzzo, C., Arena,
F., Santoro, A., Lagasco, F., Brizzi, G., Collu, M., 2022.
Combining wind
power and farmed fish: Coastal community perceptions of multi-use offshore
renewable energy installations in Europe. Energy Res. Soc. Sci. 85,
102421.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.erss.2021.102421
Bird, C. J., Saunders, G. W., McLachlan, J., 1991.
Biology of Furcellaria
lumbricalis hudson) Lamouroux (Rhodophyta: Gigartinales), a commercial
carrageenophyte. J. Appl. Phycol. 3, 61–82.
Boderskov, T., Nielsen, M. M., Rasmussen, M. B., Balsby, T. J. S., Macleod, A.,
Holdt, S. L., Sloth, J. J., Bruhn, A., 2021.
Effects of seeding method,
timing and site selection on the production and quality of sugar kelp,
Saccharina latissima: A Danish case study. Algal Res. 53, 102160.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.algal.2020.102160
Bojanowski, R., 1973.
The occurrence of major and minor chemical elements
in the more common Baltic seaweed. Oceanologia 2, 81–152.
Cada, G. F., Bevelhimer, M. S., Riemer, K. P., Turner, J. W., 2011. Effects on
freshwater organisms of magnetic fields associated with hydrokinetic turbines.
ORNL/TM-2011/244. Oak Ridge National Laboratory.
[osti.gov]https://www.osti.gov/biblio/1025846
(accessed 9 July 2025)
Catarino, M. D., Silva, A. M., Cardoso, S. M., 2018.
Phycochemical
constituents and biological activities of Fucus spp. Mar. Drugs 16(8),
249.
https://doi.org/10.3390/md16080249
Deamici, K. M., Cardias, B. B., Costa, J. A. V., Santos, L. O., 2016.
Static magnetic fields in culture of Chlorella fusca: Bioeffects on growth
and biomass composition. Process. Biochem.y 51(7), 912–916.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.procbio.2016.04.005
Deamici, K. M., Costa, J. A. V., Santos, L. O., 2016.
Magnetic fields as
triggers of microalga growth: evaluation of its effect on Spirulina sp.,
Bioresour. Technol. 220, 62–67.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.biortech.2016.08.038
EC, 2013. The Minimum Health and Safety Requirements Regarding the Exposure of
Workers to the Risks Arising from Physical Agents (Electromagnetic Fields) and
Repealing Directive 2004/40/EC. European Parliament and Council.
Fey, D. P., Jakubowska, M., Greszkiewicz, M., Andrulewicz, E., Otremba, Z.,
Urban-Malinga, B., 2019.
Are magnetic and electromagnetic fields of
anthropogenic origin potential threats to early life stages of fish?
Aquat. Toxicol. 209, 150–158.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.aquatox.2019.01.023
Font, Y. S., Dı́az, Y. O., Cuypers, A., Alemán, E. I., Vandamme, D., 2023.
The effect of magnetic field treatment on the cultivation of microalgae: An
overview of involved mechanisms. J. Appl. Phycol. 35(4), 1525–1536.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s10811-023-02994-1
FucoSan, 2020. Algae sources, cultivation and collection. FucoSan project –
Result Rep.
[fucosan.eu]https://www.fucosan.eu/en/project/
(Accessed 9 July 2025).
Garcia-Oliveira, P., Carreira-Casais, A., Caleja, C., Pereira, E., Calhelha, R.
C., Sokovic, M., Simal-Gandara, J., Ferreira, I. C. F. R., Prieto, M. A.,
Barros, L., 2020.
Macroalgae as an alternative source of nutrients and
compounds with bioactive potential. Proc. 70, 46.
https://doi.org/10.3390/foods_2020-07648
GESAMP, 1991.
GESAMP Reports and Studies No. 47. Joint Group of
Experts on the Scientific Aspects of Marine Environmental Protection.
Ghodbane, S., Lahbib, A., Sakly, M., Abdelmelek, H., 2013. Bioeffects of static
magnetic fields: oxidative stress, genotoxic effects, and cancer studies.
BioMed Res. Int. 2013, 602987.
https://doi.org/10.1155/2013/602987
Gnaiger, E., Bitterlich, G., 1984.
Proximate biochemical composition and
caloric content calculated from elemental CHN analysis: a stoichiometric
concept. Oecologia 62, 289–298.
Greenwell, M., Bird, C. J., McLachlan, J., 1984.
Depth-related variation in
gross chemical composition of several seaweeds. Aquat. Bot. 20(3–4),
297–305.
Haglund, K., Pedersén, M., 1988.
Spray cultivation of seaweeds in
recirculating brackish water. Aquaculture 72(1–2), 181–189.
Hirano, M., Ohta, A., Abe, K., 1998.
Magnetic field effects on
photosynthesis and growth of the cyanobacterium Spirulina platensis. J.
Ferment. Bioeng. 86(3), 313–316.
Indergaard, M., Knutsen, S. H. 1990.
Seasonal Differences in Ash, Carbon,
Fibre and Nitrogen Components of Furcellaria lumbricalis (Gigartinales,
Rhodophyceae), Norway. Bot. Mar. 33(4).
https://doi.org/10.1515/botm.1990.33.4.327
Jakubowska, M., Urban-Malinga, B., Otremba, Z., Andrulewicz, E., 2019.
Effect of low-frequency electromagnetic field on the behavior and
bioenergetics of the polychaete Hediste diversicolor. Mar. Environ.
Res.150, 104766.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.marenvres.2019.104766
Jakubowska-Lehrmann, M., Białowąs, M., Otremba, Z., Hallmann, A.,
Śliwińska-Wilczewska, S., Urban-Malinga, B., 2022.
Do magnetic fields
related to submarine power cables affect the functioning of a common
bivalve? Mar. Environ. Res. 179, 105700.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.marenvres.2022.105700
Jakubowska-Lehrmann, M., Makaras, T., Normant-Saremba, M., Białowąs, M.,
Otremba, Z., 2025.
Exploring the impact of magnetic fields related to
submarine power cables on the American mud crab Rhithropanopeus harrisii: A
behavioural and physiological perspective. Mar. Pollut. Bull. 212, 117492.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.marpolbul.2024.117492
Jing-wen, L., Shuang-lin, D., Xiao-yun, L., 2002.
Aspects of iron nutrition
in macroalgae Ulva pertusa (Chlorophyta) under iron stress. Chin. J.
Oceanol. Limnol. 20(2), 162–169.
Kentzer, T., Borowczak, E., Szczepkowska, E., 1976.
Investigations on the
growth intensity and its modification due to impurities in certain Baltic
algae. Stud. Mat. Oceanol. 15, 169–186. (in Polish)
Kersen, P., Paalme, T., Pajusalu, L., Martin, G., 2017.
Biotechnological
applications of the red alga Furcellaria lumbricalis and its cultivation
potential in the Baltic Sea. Bot. Mar. 60(2), 207–218.
https://doi.org/10.1515/bot-2016-0062
Kornfeldt, R. A., 1982.
The relation between nitrogen and phosphorus
content of macroalgae and the waters of northern Öresund. Bot. Mar.
25(4), 197–291.
Kotta, J., Paalme, T., Kersen, P., Martin, G., Herkul, K., Moller, T., 2008.
Density dependent growth of the red algae Furcellaria lumbricalis and
Coccotylus trancatus in the West Estonian Archipelago Sea, Northern Baltic
Sea. Oceanologia 50(4), 577–585.
[old.iopan.pl]https://old.iopan.pl/oceanologia/50_4.html#A5
Kotta, J., Raudsepp, U., Szava-Kovats, R., Aps, R., Armoskaite, A., Barda, I.,
Bergström, P., Futter, M., Gröndahl, F., Hargrave, M., Jakubowska, M.,
Jänes, H., Kaasik, A., Kraufvelin, P., Kovaltchouk, N., Krost, P., Kulikowski,
T., Kõivupuu, A., Kotta, I. Lees, L., Loite, S., Maljutenko, I., Nylund, G.,
Paalme ,T., Pavia, H., Purina, I., Rahikainen, M., Sandow, V., Visch, W., Yang,
B., Barboza, F. R., 2022.
Assessing the potential for sea-based macroalgae
cultivation and its application for nutrient removal in the Baltic Sea.
Sci. Total Environ. 839, 156230.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.scitotenv.2022.156230
Kruk-Dowgiallo, L., 1991.
Long-term changes in the structure of underwater
meadows of the Puck Lagoon. Acta Ichthyol. Piscat. 21 (Suppl.).
Kulikowski, T., Jakubowska, M., Krupska, J., Psuty, I., Szulecka, O., 2021.
Guide to macroalgae cultivation and use in the Baltic Sea Region. Nat.
Marine Fisheries Res. Inst., Gdynia.
Lehvo, A., Bäck, S., Kiirikki, M., 2001.
Growth of Fucus vesiculosus L.
(Phaeophyta) in the northern Baltic proper: Energy and nitrogen storage in
seasonal environment. Bot. Mar. 44(4), 337–347.
https://doi.org/10.1515/bot.2001.044
Li, Y., Liu, X., Liu, K., Miao, W., Zhou, C., Li, Y., Wu, H., 2014.
Extremely low-frequency magnetic fields induce developmental toxicity and
apoptosis in zebrafish (Danio rerio) embryos. Biol. Trace Elem. Res. 162,
324–332.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s12011-014-0130-5
Li, Z. Y., Guo, S. Y., Li, L., Cai, M. Y., 2007.
Effects of electromagnetic
field on the batch cultivation and nutritional composition of Spirulina
platensis in an air-lift photobioreactor. Bioresour. Technol. 98(3),
700–705.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.biortech.2006.01.024
Loghmannia, J., Heidari, B., Rozati, S. A., Kazemi, S., 2015.
The
physiological responses of the Caspian kutum (Rutilus frisii kutum) fry to
static magnetic fields with different intensities during acute and subacute
exposures. Ecotoxicol. Environ. Saf. 111, 215–219.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ecoenv.2014.10.020
Luo, X., Zhang, H., Li, Q., Zhang, J., 2020.
Effects of static magnetic
field on Chlorella vulgaris: growth and extracellular polysaccharide (EPS)
production. J. Appl. Phycol. 32, 2819–2828.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s10811-020-02164-7
Maar, M., Holbach, A., Boderskov, T., Thomsen, M., Buck, B. H., Kotta, J.,
Bruhn, A., 2023.
Multi-use of offshore wind farms with low-trophic
aquaculture can help achieve global sustainability goals. Commun. Earth
Environ. 4(1), 447.
https://doi.org/10.1038/s43247-023-01116-6
Martin, G., Paalme, T., Torn, K., 2006.
Growth and production rates of
loose-lying and attached forms of the red algae Furcellaria lumbricalis and
Coccotylus truncatus in Kassari Bay, the West Estonian Archipelago Sea.
Hydrobiologia 554, 107–115.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s10750-005-1010-y
Meichssner, R., Krost, P., Schulz, R., 2021.
Experimental testing of
density- and season-dependent growth in vegetative Fucus aquaculture and
modelling of growth over one year for different cultivation scenarios. J.
Appl. Phycol. 33, 3939–3950.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s10811-020-02274-2
Meichssner, R., Stegmann, N., Cosin, A.-S., Sachs, D., Bressan, M., Marx, H.,
Krost, P., Schulz, R., 2020.
Control of fouling in the aquaculture of Fucus
vesiculosus and Fucus serratus by regular desiccation. J. Appl. Phycol.
32, 4145–4158.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s10811-020-02274-2
Menestrino, B. D. C., Pintos, T. H. C., Sala, L., Costa, J. A. V., Santos, L.
O., 2020.
Application of static magnetic fields on the mixotrophic culture
of Chlorella minutissima for carbohydrate production. Appl. Biochem.
Biotechnol. 192(3), 822–830.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s12010-020-03364-0
North Sea Farmers, 2025.
NORTH SEA FARM #1. https://www.northseafarmers.org/projects/nsf1
(Accessed 9 July 2025)
Oliva, M., De Marchi, L., Cuccaro, A., Fumagalli, G., Freitas, R., Fontana, N.,
Raugi, M., Barmada, S., Pretti, C., 2023.
Introducing energy into marine
environments: A lab-scale static magnetic field submarine cable simulation and
its effects on sperm and larval development on a reefforming serpulid.
Environ. Pollut. 328, 121625.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.envpol.2023.121625
O'Shea, R., Collins, A., Howe, C., 2022.
Offshore multi-use setting:
Introducing integrative assessment modelling to alleviate uncertainty of
developing seaweed aquaculture inside wind farms. Environ. Challenges 8,
100559.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.envc.2022.100559
Paalme, T., Kotta, J., Kersen, P., 2013.
Does the growth rate of drifting
Furcellaria lumbricalis and Coccotylus truncatus depend on their proportion and
density? Proc. Estonian Acad. Sci. 62(2), 141–151.
https://doi.org/10.3176/proc.2013.2.08
Pazur, A., Scheer, H., 1992.
The growth of freshwater green algae in weak
alternating magnetic fields of 7.8 Hz frequency. Z. Naturforsch. C
47(9–10), 690–694.
https://doi.org/10.1515/znc-1992-9-1009
Pedersen, M., Borum, J., 1996.
Nutrient control of algal growth in
estuarine waters. Nutrient limitation and the importance of nitrogen
requirements and nitrogen storage among phytoplankton and species of
macroalgae. Mar. Ecol. Prog. Ser.142, 261–272.
https://doi.org/10.3354/meps142261
Peteiro, C., 2017.
Alginate production from marine macroalgae, with
emphasis on kelp farming. [In:] Alginates and their biomedical
applications, Springer, Singapore, 27–66.
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-10-6910-9_2
Pliński, M., Florczyk, I., 1984.
Analysis of the composition and vertical
distribution of the macroalgae in the western part of the Gulf of Gdansk in
1979 and 1980. Oceanologia 19, 101–116.
http://www.iopan.gda.pl/oceanologia/OC_19/OC_19_101-115.pdf
Rueness, J., Tananger, T., 1984.
Growth in culture of four red algae from
Norway with potential for mariculture. Proc. 11th Int. Seaweed Symp.,
Springer Netherlands, 303–307.
Saletnik, B., Saletnik, A., Słysz, E., Zaguła, G., Bajcar, M.,
Puchalska-Sarna, A., Puchalski, C., 2022.
The static magnetic field
regulates the structure, biochemical activity, and gene expression of
plants. Molecules 27(18), 5823.
https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules27185823
Sánchez-Saavedra, M., Voltolina, D., Simental, J., Carbajal- Miranda, M. J.,
2008.
Removal of epiphytes of the kelp Macrocystis pyrifera (L.) Agardh
using different biocides. Hidrobiológica 18(2), 99–104.
Santini, M. T., Ferrante, A., Rainaldi, G., Indovina, P., Indovina, P. L.,
2005.
Extremely low frequency (ELF) magnetic fields and apoptosis: a
review. Int. J. Radiat. Biol. 81(1), 1–11.
https://doi.org/10.1080/09553000400029502
Santos, L. O., Deamici, K. M., Menestrino, B. C., Garda-Buffon, J., Costa, J.
A. V., 2017.
Magnetic treatment of microalgae for enhanced product
formation. World J. Microbiol. Biotechnol. 33, 1–6.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s11274-017-2332-4
Sarraf, M., Kataria, S., Taimourya, H., Santos, L. O., Menegatti, R. D., Jain,
M., Ihtisham, M., Liu, S., 2020.
Magnetic field (MF) applications in
plants: An overview. Plants 9(9), 1139.
https://doi.org/10.3390/plants9091139
Scott, K., Harsanyi, P., Lyndon, A. R., 2018.
Understanding the effects of
electromagnetic field emissions from Marine Renewable Energy Devices (MREDs) on
the commercially important edible crab, Cancer pagurus (L.). Mar. Pollut.
Bull. 131, 580–588.
https://doi.org/10.3389/conf.fmars.2018.06.00105
Ślesińska, B., 1977.
The species composition of plants when collecting
Furcellaria from Puck Bay. Zeszyty Naukowe UG, ser. Oceanografia 3,
139–148 (in Polish).
Small, D. P., Hüner, N. P., Wan, W., 2012.
Effect of static magnetic
fields on the growth, photosynthesis and ultrastructure of Chlorella kessleri
microalgae. Bioelectromagnetics 33(4), 298–308.
https://doi.org/10.1002/bem.20706
Soares-Ramos, E. P., de Oliveira-Assis, L., Sarrias-Mena, R.,
Fernández-Ramı́rez, L. M., 2020.
Current status and future trends of
offshore wind power in Europe. Energy 202, 117787.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.energy.2020.117787
Stankevičiūtė, M., Jakubowska, M., Pažusienė, J., et al., 2019.
Genotoxic and cytotoxic effects of 50 Hz 1 mT electromagnetic field on
larval rainbow trout (Oncorhynchus mykiss), Baltic clam (Limecola balthica),
and common ragworm hediste diversicolor). Aquat. Toxicol. 208, 109–117.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.aquatox.2018.12.023
Suzuki, Y., Toyama, Y., Miyakoshi, Y., Ikehata, M., Yoshioka, H., Shimizu, H.,
2006.
Effect of static magnetic field on the induction of micronuclei by
some mutagens. Environ. Health Prev. Med. 11, 228–232.
https://doi.org/10.1265/ehpm.11.228
Svahn, C., Maria Gylle, A., Ekelund, N. G., 2012.
Photosynthetic activity
in marine and brackish water strains of Fucus vesiculosus and Fucus radicans
(Phaeophyceae) at different light qualities. Photochem. Photobiol 88(6),
1455–1460.
https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1751-1097.2012.01187.x
Thomas, J.-B. E., Sodré Ribeiro, M., Potting, J., Cervin, G., Nylund, G. M.,
Olsson, J., Albers, E., Undeland, I., Pavia, H., Gröndahl, F., 2020. A
comparative environmental life cycle assessment of hatchery, cultivation, and
preservation of the kelp Saccharina latissima. ICES J. Mar. Sci.78(1),
451–467.
https://doi.org/10.1093/icesjms/fsaa112
Trokowicz, D., Skrodzki, M., 1964.
Patent description 53780 – The method
of obtaining alginic acid and agar-agar from seaweed (in Polish).
Tu, R., Jin, W., Xi, T., Yang, Q., Han, S. F., Abomohra, A. E. F., 2015.
Effect of static magnetic field on the oxygen production of Scenedesmus
obliquus cultivated in municipal wastewater. Water Res. 86, 132–138.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.watres.2015.07.039
Wallentinus, I., 1978.
Productivity studies on Baltic macroalgae. Bot.
Mar. 21, 365–380.
https://doi.org/10.1515/botm.1978.21.6.365
Wallentinus, I., 1984.
Comparisons of nutrient uptake rates for Baltic
macroalgae with different thallus morphologies. Mar. Biol. 80, 215–225.
https://doi.org/10.1007/bf02180189
Wang, H. Y., Zeng, X. B., Guo, S. Y., Li, Z. T., 2008.
Effects of magnetic
field on the antioxidant defense system of recirculation-cultured Chlorella
vulgaris. Bioelectromagnetics 29(1), 39–46.
https://doi.org/10.1002/bem.20360
Weinberger, F., Paalme, T., Wikström, S. A., 2020.
Seaweed resources of
the Baltic Sea, Kattegat and German and Danish North Sea coasts. Bot. Mar.
63(1), 61–72.
https://doi.org/10.1515/bot-2019-0019
West, J. A., McBride, D. L., 1999.
Long-term and diurnal carpospore
discharge patterns in the Ceramiaceae Rhodomelaceae and Delesseriaceae
(Rhodophyta). 16th Int. Seaweed Symp., Springer, Dordrecht, 101–113.
Zgrundo, A., Złoch, I., 2022.
Gone and back – The anthropogenic history
of Coccotylus brodiei (Turner) Kützing and Furcellaria lumbricalis hudson) JV
Lamouroux in the Gulf of Gdańsk (Southern Baltic Sea), Water 14(14),
2181.
https://doi.org/10.3390/w14142181
Characteristics of Malacca Strait Throughflow during Indian Ocean Dipole mode 2020–2024
Oceanologia, 68 (2)/2026, 68209, 15 pp.
https://doi.org/10.5697/QISX9789
Noir P. Purba1,2,*, Martono3, Ghelby M. Faid2, Hind Azidane4, Raffy R. Alfarez2, Muhammad H. Ilmi2, Noor C.D. Aryanto5
1Faculty of Fishery and Marine Science, Department of Marine Science, Universitas Padjadjaran, Bandung, Indonesia;
e-mail: noir.purba@unpad.ac.id (N. P. Purba)
2KomitmenX Research Group, Universitas Padjadjaran, Bandung, Indonesia
3Research and Innovation Agency (BRIN), Jakarta, Indonesia
4Faculty of Sciences, Department of Geology, Ibn Tofail University, Kénitra, Morocco
5Research Centre for Geological Resources, National Research and Innovation Agency (BRIN), Bandung, Indonesia
Keywords:
Water mass stability; Rupat Strait; T-S diagram; Surface currents; Indonesian throughflow
Received: 17 September 2025; revised: 17 December 2025; accepted: 23 February 2026
Highlights
- The northern region is saltier and has low oxygen, the south is fresher and high in oxygen, and the middle is a mixing zone.
- Positive IOD makes waters warmer and saltier; negative IOD makes them cooler, fresher, and richer in oxygen.
- Currents are stronger in the north, weaker in the south, with water flowing both to the Andaman Sea and to the Java Sea/Indian Ocean
Abstract
The hydrographic dynamics of the Malacca Strait Througflow (MST) during Indian Ocean Dipole (IOD) events
remain poorly characterized, particularly for recent years. This study investigates the characteristics of water masses
and circulation from 2020 to 2024 during different IOD phases. High-resolution ocean model data from Copernicus
Marine Service (CMEMS) model outputs were examined using statistical analyses of temperature, salinity, and oxygen
variability, complemented by volume transport and Lagrangian simulations to examine circulation pathways. The result
revealed a strong north-south gradient in water-mass properties, where the northern region is significantly affected
by Andaman Sea waters, which are higher in salinity and oxygen-depleted. The southern region receives water from
the Java Sea and the South China Sea, which are warmer and less saline. The middle region serves as a mixing zone
between the northern and southern water masses. Seasonal variations are most evident in surface waters, whereas
deep-water characteristics remain stable throughout the seasons. Evidence indicates that different mixing processes
occur in each region, affecting the distribution of water properties. IOD phases significantly modulate MST conditions.
The positive IOD phases result in warmer temperatures, lower oxygen levels, and more stable salinity due to decreased
freshwater input. In contrast, negative phases lead to cooler temperatures, higher oxygen concentrations, and lower
salinity due to increased rainfall and runoff. Crucially, particle tracking revealed a bifurcated flow, with pathways
towards both the Andaman Sea and the Java Sea, and volume transport increased by 7.02% in the south during
positive IOD. These findings highlight the MST’s complex and regionally heterogeneous response to climate variability.
References
Ai, L., Liu, S., Cong, S., Zhang, H., Cao, P., Wu, K., Ye, W., Mohamed, C. A.
R., Shi, X., 2024.
Spatial Variability Of Surface Sediments In The Malacca
Strait And Its Implications For Sedimentary Environments. J. Asian Earth
Sci. 259, 105922.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jseaes.2023.105922
Akhir, M. F. M., Yong J., 2011.
Seasonal Variation of Water Characteristics
During Inter-Monsoon Along the East Coast of Johor. J. Sustainability Sci.
Manage. 6(2), 206–214.
Amiruddin, M. A., Zaiton Ibr, Z., Aizat Isma, S., 2011.
Water Mass
Characteristics in the Strait of Malacca Using Ocean Data View. Res. J.
Environ. Sci. 5(1), 49–58.
https://doi.org/10.3923/rjes.2011.49.58
Chen, H., Malanotte-Rizzoli, P., Koh, T. Y., Song, G., 2014.
The Relative
Importance Of The Wind-Driven And Tidal Circulations In Malacca Strait.
Cont. Shelf Res. 88, 92–102.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.csr.2014.07.012
Daryabor, F., Ooi, S. H., Samah, A. A., Akbari, A., 2016.
Dynamics Of The
Water Circulations In The Southern South China Sea And Its Seasonal
Transports. Plos ONE 11(7), 1–20.
https://doi.org/10.1371/Journal.Pone.0158415
Daryabor, F., Samah, A. A., Ooi, S. H., Chenoli, S. N., 2015.
An Estimate
Of The Sunda Shelf And The Strait Of Malacca Transports: A Numerical
Study. Ocean Sci. Discus. 12(1), 275–313.
https://doi.org/10.5194/osd-12-275-2015
Haditiar, Y., Putri, M. R., Ismail, N., Muchlisin, Z. A., Rizal, S., 2019.
Numerical Simulation Of Currents And Volume Transport In The Malacca Strait
And Part Of The South China Sea. Eng. J. 23(6), 129–143.
https://doi.org/10.4186/Ej.2019.23.6.129
Ibrahim, Z. Z., Yanagi, T., 2006.
The Influence Of The Andaman Sea And The
South China Sea On Water Mass In The Malacca Strait, La Mer, 33–42.
Isa, N. S., Akhir, M. F., Khalil, I., Kok, P. H., Roseli, N. H., 2020.
Seasonal Characteristics Of The Sea Surface Temperature And Sea Surface
Currents Of The Strait Of Malacca And Andaman Sea. J. Sustainability Sci.
Manage. 15(4), 66–77.
https://doi.org/10.46754/Jssm.2020.06.007
Jin, S., Nie, X., Wang, G., Teng, F., Xu, T., 2023.
Analysis Of The Distribution And Seasonal Variability Of The South China Sea Water Masses Based On The K-Means Cluster Method. J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 11(3).
https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse11030485
Khoirunnisa, H., Wisha, U. J., Lubis, M. Z., 2017.
The Coherency And Correlation Between Sea Surface Temperature And Wind Velocity In Malacca
Strait: Cross Wavelet Transform And Wavelet Coherency Application. JGEET 2(3), 210.
https://doi.org/10.24273/Jgeet.2017.2.3.590
Kok, P. H., Wijeratne, S., Akhir, M. F., Pattiaratchi, C., Roseli, N. H., Ali, F. S. M., 2021.
Interconnection Between The Southern South China Sea And The Java Sea Through The Karimata Strait. J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 9(10).
https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse9101040
Liu, H., Wu, C., Xu, W., Wang, X., Thangaraj, S., Zhang, G., Zhang, X., Zhao, Y., Sun, J., 2020.
Surface Phytoplankton Assemblages And Controlling Factors In The Strait Of Malacca And Sunda Shelf. Front. Marine Sci. 7, 1–11.
https://doi.org/10.3389/fmars.2020.00033
McDougall, T. J., Barker, P. M., 2011.
Getting Started With TEOS-10 And The Gibbs Seawater (GSW), Oceanographic Toolbox Vol. 1.
Purba, N. P., Pranowo, W. S., Faizal, I., Adiwira, H., 2018. Temperature-Salinity stratification in the Eastern Indian Ocean using Argo
float. IOP Conf. Ser.: Earth Environ. Sci. 162, 012010.
https://doi.org/10.1088/1755-1315/162/1/012010
Rizal, S., Damm, P., Wahid, M. A., Sündermann, J., Ilhamsyah, Y., Iskandar, T., Muhammad, 2012.
General Circulation in the Malacca Strait and Andaman Sea: A Numerical Model Study. Am. J. Environ. Sci. 8(5), 479–488.
https://doi.org/10.3844/ajessp.2012.479.488
Roseli, N. H., Akhir, M. F., Husain, M. L., Tangang, F., Ali, A., 2015.
Water Mass Characteristics and Stratification at the Shallow Sunda Shelf of the Southern South China Sea. Open J. Mar. Sci. 05(04), 455–467.
https://doi.org/10.4236/ojms.2015.54036
Saji, N. H., Goswami, B. N., Vinayachandran, P. N., Yamagata, T., 1999.
A dipole mode in the tropical Indian Ocean. Nature 401 (6751), 360–363.
https://doi.org/10.1038/43854
Sangmanee, C., Vasinamekhin, V., Khokiattiwong, S., 2020.
Water Characteristic In The South Andaman Shelf Sea From Observations During
2014–2019. Phuket Mar. Biol. Center Res.Bull.87(77), 75–85.
https://doi.org/10.14456/Pmbcrb.2020.7
Soumya, M., Vethamony, P., Tkalich, P., 2015.
Inter-Annual Sea Level Variability in the Southern South China Sea. Global Planet. Change 133, 17–26.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.gloplacha.2015.07.003
Webster, P. J., Moore, A. M., Loschnigg, J. P., Leben, R. R., 1999.
Coupled ocean-atmosphere dynamics in the Indian Ocean during 1997–98. Nature 401, 356–360.
https://doi.org/10.1038/43848
Wibowo, M. A., Tanjung, A., Rifardi, E. M., Yoswaty, D., Su- santi, R., Muttaqin, A. S., Fajary, F. R., Anwika, Y. M., 2022.
Understanding The Mechanism Of Currents Through The Malacca Strait Study Case 2020–2022: Mean State, Seasonal And Monthly Variation. IOP Con- ference Series. Earth Environ. Sci. 1118(1).
https://doi.org/10.1088/1755-1315/1118/1/012069
Semidiurnal and diurnal barotropic currents in the inner shelf and surf zone of the west coast of India: Measurements and modeling
Oceanologia, 68 (2)/2026, 68210, 20 pp.
https://doi.org/10.5697/PWUX9926
Yadhunath E. M.1,*, Jaya Kumar Seelam2,3, Subeesh M. P.1, Jai Singh2, Luis Ryan2
1Naval Physical and Oceanographic Laboratory, Kochi, India;
e-mail: yadhunath90@gmail.com (Yadhunath, E. M.)
2CSIR – National Institute of Oceanography, Goa, India
3Academy of Scientific & Innovative Research, CSIR–NIO, Goa, India
Keywords:
Barotropic tide; Inner shelf; Wave; Surf zone; Delft3d; ADCP
Received: 1 December 2024; revised: 10 January 2026; accepted: 23 February 2026
Highlights
- In the inner shelf, currents are mostly dictated by the tides with the predominant M and K1 frequencies.
- In surfzone, the currents in both bands are strongly modulated by the winds.
- We established a 2D hydrodynamic model to understand how winds and tides affect the currents in the diurnal and semidiurnal bands.
- A sensitivity experiment with and without wind forcing demonstrated the influence of wind: the land-sea breeze significantly modulates surf zone currents.
- Surf zone underestimates the tidal current amplitude in the absence of wind. In the inner shelf, both bands show a little variation in sensitivity runs.
Abstract
We study the dynamics of barotropic currents at semidiurnal and diurnal frequency bands in the inner shelf and surf
zone off the west coast of India using moored velocity observations. In both the Inner shelf and the Surf zone, the
observed current exhibits significant semidiurnal and diurnal energy. The hourly climatology of residual currents exhibits
a strong diurnal variability in the barotropic currents in the both regions. A 2D hydrodynamic model, Delft3d, was
implemented, and sensitivity experiments were performed to understand the role of wind and wave in the tidal and
diurnal variability of barotropic currents in the region. Surf zone barotropic currents in diurnal band are strongly
modulated by the winds. However, wind has minimal influence on the barotropic current in the inner shelf. Sensitivity
experiments with and without waves show that, apart from wind, wave parameters have significant influence on the
diurnal variability of surf zone currents. Analysis further confirms that diurnal currents in the surf zone are primarily
wind-driven, while inner shelf currents are mostly tide-dominated. Overall, this study underscores the necessity of
incorporating wind, wave, and tidal forcing to realistically simulate nearshore currents in the inner shelf and surf zone
along the west coast of India.
References
Aboobacker, V.M., Seemanth, M., Samiksha, S.V., Sudheesh, K., Kerkar, J.,
Vethamony, P., 2014.
Sea breeze-induced wind sea growth in the central west
coast of India. Ocean Eng. 84, 20–28.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2014.03.030
Alford, M.H., Simmons, H.L., Marques, O.B., Girton, J.B., 2019.
Internal
tide attenuation in the North Pacific. Geophy. Res. Lett. 46 (14),
8205–8213.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2019GL082648
Allard, R., Dykes, J., Hsu, Y.H.L., Kaihatu, J., Conley, D., 2008.
A
real-time nearshore wave and current prediction system. J. Marine Syst. 69
(1–2), 37–58.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jmarsys.2007.02.020
Allouche, M., Bou-Zeid, E., Iipponen, J., 2023.
The influence of synoptic
wind on land-sea breezes. Q. J. Roy. Meteor. Soc. 149 (757), 3198–3219.
https://doi.org/10.1002/qj.4552
Alvares, C., 1993.
Fish, Curry, and Rice: A Citizen’s Report on the State
of the Goan Environment. Ecoforum, 1st edn., Goa, 260 pp.
Amol, P., Vijith, V., Fernando, V., Pednakar, P., Singh, J., 2018.
Impact
of local and remote winds on the shelf circulation off the central west coast
of India. Ocean. Dynam. 68,1607–1623.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s10236-018-1211-3
Andutta, F.P., Patterson, R.G., Wang, X.H., 2019.
Monsoon driven waves
superpose the effect from macro-tidal currents on sediment resuspension and
distribution. Estuar. Coast. Shelf. Sci. 223, 85–93.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ecss.2019.04.036
Balaji, R., Ramana Murthy, M.V., Satheeshkumar, J., 2019.
Measurement of
surf zone hydrodynamics along the coastline of Pondicherry, India. [In:]
Proceedings of the Fourth International Conference in Ocean Engineering
(ICOE2018), Vol. 2, Springer, Singapore, 25–34.
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-13-3134-3_3
Basco, D.R., 1983.
Surf zone currents. Coast. Eng. 7 (4), 331–355.
https://doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(83)90003-0
Chaudhuri, A., Amol, P., Shankar, D., Mukhopadhyay, S., Aparna, S.G., Fernando,
V., Kankonkar, A., 2021.
Observed variability of the West India Coastal
Current on the continental shelf from 2010–2017. J. Earth. Syst. Sci.
130 (2), 77.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s12040-021-01603-4
Delpey, M., Lastiri, X., Abadie, S., Roeber, V., Maron, P., Liria, P., Mader,
J., 2021.
Characterization of the wave resource variability in the French
Basque coastal area based on a high-resolution hindcast. Renew. Energ.
178, 79–95.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.renene.2021.05.167
Dyer, K.R., 1997. Estuaries: A Physical Introduction. 2nd edn., Wiley,
Chichester, 195 pp.
Galparsoro, I., Borja, Á., Legorburu, I., Hernández, C., Chust, G., Liria,
P., Uriarte, A., 2010
. Morphological characteristics of the Basque
continental shelf (Bay of Biscay, northern Spain); their implications for
Integrated Coastal Zone Management. Geomorphology 118 (3–4), 314–329.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.geomorph.2010.01.012
George, J., Kumar, V.S., Gowthaman, R., Singh, J., 2020.
Nearshore waves
and littoral drift along a micro-tidal wave-dominated coast having comparable
wind-sea and swell energy. J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 8 (1), 55.
https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse8010055
Halsne, T., Benetazzo, A., Barbariol, F., Christensen, K.H., Carrasco, A.,
Breivik, Ø., 2024.
Wave modulation in a strong tidal current and its
impact on extreme waves. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 54 (1), 131–151.
https://doi.org/10.1175/JPO-D-23-0051.1
Hamm, L., 1992.
Directional nearshore wave propagation over a rip channel:
an experiment. [In:] Edge, B.L. (Ed.), Coastal Engineering 1992.
Proceedings of the twentythird international conferrence, ASCE, New York,
226–239.
https://doi.org/10.1061/9780872629332.017
Holman, R.A., 1986.
Extreme value statistics for wave runup on a natural
beach. Coast. Eng. 9 (6), 527–544.
https://doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(86)90002-5
Hopkins, J., Elgar, S., Raubenheimer, B., 2016.
Observations and model
simulations of wave-current interaction on the inner shelf. J. Geophys.
Res-Oceans, 121 (1), 198–208.
https://doi.org/10.1002/2015JC010788
Inman, D.L., Quinn, W.H., 1951.
Currents in the surf zone. Coast. Eng.
Proc. 2, 3–3.
https://icce-ojs-tamu.tdl.org/icce/article/view/1469
Jiao, N.Z., Chen, D.K., Luo, Y.M., Huang, X.P., Zhang, R., Zhang, H.B., Zhang,
F., 2015.
Climate change and anthropogenic impacts on marine ecosystems and
countermeasures in China. Adv. Clim. Chang. Res. 6 (2), 118–125.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.accre.2015.09.010
Kumar, N., Lerczak, J.A., Xu, T., Waterhouse, A.F., Thomson, J., Terrill, E.J.,
Ahn, S., 2021.
The inner-shelf dynamics experiment. Bull. Amer.
Meteor. Soc. 102 (5), E1033–E1063.
https://doi.org/10.1175/BAMS-D-19-0281.1
Kunte, P.D., Wagle, B.G., Sugimori, Y., 2002.
A review and reassessment of
sediment transport along the Goa Coast, India. J. Coastal. Res. 18 (3),
612–621.
http://www.jstor.org/stable/4299114
Lentz, S.J., 1994.
Current dynamics over the northern California inner
shelf. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 24 (12), 2461–2478.
https://doi.org/10.1175/1520-0485(1994)024
Longuet-Higgins, M.S., 1970b.
Longshore currents generated by obliquely
incident sea waves. J. Geophys. Res. 75 (33), 6790–6801.
https://doi.org/10.1029/JC075i033p06790
Luijendijk, A.P., 2001.
Validation, calibration and evaluation of
Delft3D-FLOW model with ferry measurements. M.Sc. thesis, Tech. Univ.
Delft, The Netherlands.
Matsunaga, N., Hashida, M., Kawakami, H., 1996.
Windinduced waves and
currents in a nearshore zone. [In:] Coastal Engineering 1996, ASCE, New
York, 3363–3377.
https://doi.org/10.1061/9780784402429.260
Mazumdar, A., 2020.
Recent contributions to the geochemistry and
sedimentology of estuaries, mangroves, and mudbanks along the Indian coast: A
status report. Proc. Indian Natl Sci. Acad. 86 (1), 485–497.
Mehra, P., Prabhudesai, R.G., Joseph, A., Kumar, V., Agarvadekar, Y., Luis, R.,
Nadaf, L., 2013.
Comparison of sea-level measurements between microwave
radar and subsurface pressure gauge deployed at select locations along the
coast of India. J. Appl. Remote. Sens. 7 (1), 073569–073569.
https://doi.org/10.1117/1.JRS.7.073569
Mitra, A., Mandal, S., Shanas, P.R., Joseph, D., Yuvaraj, S., George, J.,
Kumar, V.S., 2022.
Variability in tidal harmonics of the coastal and
estuarine waters of Goa during the winter monsoon and spring
inter-monsoon. Reg. Stud. Mar. Sci. 51, 102226.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.rsma.2022.102226
Moulton, M., Chickadel, C.C., Thomson, J., 2021.
Warm and cool nearshore
plumes connecting the surf zone to the inner shelf. Geophy. Res. Lett. 48
(10), e2020GL091675.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2020GL091675
Müller, M., 2012.
The influence of changing stratification conditions on
barotropic tidal transport and its implications for seasonal and secular
changes of tides. Cont. Shelf. Res. 47, 107–118.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.csr.2012.07.003
Okon, L.U.E., Seelam, J.K., Hemanath, L., Thomas, J., Narine, R., 2025.
Hypothesis-driven sensitivity analysis of Delft3D flexible mesh
hydrodynamic model: insights into coastal processes in the monsoonal tropical
Goa Coast, India. Ocean Dynam. 75 (9), 1–14.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s10236-025-01724-0
Paniagua-Arroyave, J.F., Valle-Levinson, A., Parra, S.M., Adams, P.N., 2019.
Tidal distortions related to extreme atmospheric forcing over the inner
shelf. J. Geophys. Res.-Oceans, 124(9), 6688—6701.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2019JC015021
Pasma, G.R., Suharyanto, H.H.R., Khoirunnisa, H., Wijayanti, R., Gumbira, G.,
Rachman, R.A., 2024.
Assessment of sensitivity and validity of hydrodynamic
model in Cisadane using Delft3D Flow model. ILMU KELAUTAN: IJMS. 29 (1),
133–146.
https://doi.org/10.14710/ik.ijms.29.1.133-146
Pitman, S., Gallop, S.L., Haigh, I.D., Masselink, G., Ranasinghe, R., 2016.
Wave breaking patterns control rip current flow regimes and surf zone
retention. Mar. Geol. 382, 176–190.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2016.10.016
Port, A., Gurgel, K.W., Staneva, J., Schulz-Stellenfleth, J., Stanev, E.V.,
2011.
Tidal and wind-driven surface currents in the German Bight: HFR
observations versus model simulations. Ocean. Dynam. 61 (10), 1567–1585.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s10236-011-0412-9
Prakash, N., Ashly, K.U., Seelam, J.K., Bhaskaran, H., Yadhunath, E.M.,
Lavanya, H., Surisetty, V.A.K., 2021.
Investigation of near-shore processes
along North Goa beaches: A study based on field observations and numerical
modelling. J. Earth. Syst. Sci. 130 (4), 242.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s12040-021-01755-3
Pradhan, U.K., Mishra, P., Mohanty, P.K., Panda, U.S., Ramanamurthy, M.V.,
2020.
Modeling of tidal circulation and sediment transport near tropical
estuary, east coast of India. Reg. Stud. Mar. Sci. 37, 101351.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.rsma.2020.101351
Pugh, D T., 1987.
Tides, surges and mean sea level. 1st edn., John
Wiley & Sons Ltd., United States, 486 pp.
Rafiq, S.W., Pattiaratchi, C., Janeković, I., 2020.
Dynamics of the
land-sea breeze system and the surface current response in south-west
Australia. J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 8 (11), 931.
https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse8110931
Rahman, A., Venugopal, V., 2017.
Parametric analysis of three-dimensional
flow models applied to tidal energy sites in Scotland. Estuar. Coast.
Shelf. Sci. 189, 17–32.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ecss.2017.02.027
Ren, L., Nash, S., Hartnett, M., 2015.
Observation and modeling of tide-
and wind-induced surface currents in Galway Bay. Water. Sci. Eng. 8 (4),
345–352.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.wse.2015.12.001
Rivonker, C.U., Padate, V.P., Hegde, M.R., Velip, D.T., 2018.
Habitat
complexity of tropical coastal ecosystems: An ecosystem management
perspective. [In:] Environmental Management of Marine Ecosystems. CRC
Press, 263– 286.
Seelam, J.K., Yadhunath, E.M., Jishad, M., Gowthaman, R., Rajasekaran, C.,
Pednekar, P. S. 2014.
Post-monsoon equilibrium beach profiles and longshore
sediment transport rates at Candolim, Miramar and Keri beaches of Goa.
Current Sci. India, 106 (3), 408–416.
https://www.jstor.org/stable/24099901
Sharples, J., 1997.
Cross-shelf intrusion of subtropical water into the
coastal zone of northeast New Zealand. Cont. Shelf. Res. 17 (7),
835–857.
https://doi.org/10.1016/S0278-4343(96)00060-X
Shenoi, S.S.C., Gouveia, A.D., Shetye, S.R., 1992.
Diurnal and semidiurnal
tidal currents in the deep mid-Arabian Sea. Proc. Indian Acad. Sci.-Earth
Planet. Sci. 101, 177–189.
https://doi.org/10.1007/BF02840351
Shetye, S.R., I. Suresh, I., Shankar, D., Sundar, S., Jayakumar, P., Mehra,
R.G., Prabhudesai, R.G., Pednekar, P.S., 2008.
Observational evidence for
remote forcing of the West India Coastal Current. J. Geophys. Res.-Oceans.
113 (C11).
https://doi.org/10.1029/2008JC004874
Sous, D., Forsberg, P.L., Touboul, J., Nogueira, G.G., 2021.
Laboratory
experiments of surf zone dynamics under on- and offshore wind conditions.
Coast. Eng. 163, 103797.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2020.103797
Song, H., Kuang, C., Wang, X.H., Ma, Z., 2020.
Wave-current interactions
during extreme weather conditions in southwest of Bohai Bay China. Ocean.
Eng. 216, 108068.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2020.108068
Stelling, G.S., Van Kester, J.A.T.M., 1994.
On the approximation of
horizontal gradients in sigma coordinates for bathymetry with steep bottom
slopes. Int. J. Numer. Meth. Fl. 18 (10), 915–935.
https://doi.org/10.1002/fld.1650181003
Sterl, M.F., Delandmeter, P., van Sebille, E., 2020.
Influence of
barotropic tidal currents on transport and accumulation of floating
microplastics in the global open ocean. J. Geophys. Res-Oceans, 125 (2),
e2019JC015583.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2019JC015583
Stow, D., 2017.
Oceans: A Very Short Introduction. Oxford Univ. Press,
224 pp.
https://doi.org/10.1093/actrade/9780199655076.001.0001
Subeesh, M.P., Unnikrishnan, A.S., 2016.
Observed internal tides and
near-inertial waves on the continental shelf and slope off Jaigarh, central
west coast of India. J. Marine Syst. 157, 1–19.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jmarsys.2015.12.005
Subeesh, M.P., Unnikrishnan, A.S., Fernando, V., Agarwadekar, Y., Khalap, S.T.,
Satelkar, N.P., Shenoi, S.S.C., 2013.
Observed tidal currents on the
continental shelf off the west coast of India. Cont. Shelf. Res. 69,
123–140.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.csr.2013.09.008
Subeesh, M.P., Unnikrishnan, A.S., Francis, P.A., 2021.
Generation,
propagation and dissipation of internal tides on the continental shelf and
slope off the west coast of India. Cont. Shelf. Res. 214, 104321.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.csr.2020.104321
Testut, L., Unnikrishnan, A.S., 2016.
Improving modeling of tides on the
continental shelf off the west coast of India. J. Coastal. Res. 32 (1),
105–115.
http://drs.nio.org/drs/handle/2264/4908
Truong, D.T., Doan, D., Nguyen Cao, D., 2021.
The impact of waves and tidal
currents on the sediment transport at the sea port. Civil. Eng. J. 7 (10),
1634–1649.
https://doi.org/10.28991/cej-2021-03091749
Uchiyama, Y., McWilliams, J.C., Shchepetkin, A.F., 2010.
Wave–current
interaction in an oceanic circulation model with a vortex-force formalism:
Application to the surf zone. Ocean. Model. 34 (1–2), 16–35.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ocemod.2010.04.002
Venkateswarlu, C., Surisetty, V.A.K., Somani, A., Gireesh, B., Naidu, C.V.,
2023.
Surf zone-related drownings and injuries based on lifeguard records
in Goa beaches (2008–2020). Nat. Hazards 117 (1), 313–337.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s11069-023-05861-x
Vethamony, P., Aboobacker, V.M., Menon, H.B., Kumar, K.A., Cavaleri, L., 2011.
Superimposition of wind seas on preexisting swells off Goa coast. J.
Marine Syst. 87 (1), 47–54.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jmarsys.2011.02.024
Wright, L.D., Short, A.D., 1984.
Morphodynamic variability of surf zones
and beaches: a synthesis. Mar. Geol. 56 (1–4), 93–118.
https://doi.org/10.1016/0025-3227(84)90008-2
Yadhunath, E.M., Seelam, J.K., Jishad, M., 2022a.
Rip current occurrences
in meso tidal surf zones at a coastal stretch along the central west coast of
India. Reg. Stud. Mar. Sci. 51, 102180.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.rsma.2022.102180
Yadhunath, E.M., Seelam, J.K., Pednekar, P.S., Rajive, R.K., Gowthaman, R.,
2022b.
Longshore currents on a mesotidal beach of Goa, India –
Measurements and improved formulae. Indian. J. Geo.-Mar. Sci. 51 (11),
867–877.
https://doi.org/10.56042/ijms.v51i11.3503
Reconstruction of the South Java Coastal Current during the Indian Ocean Dipole and El Niño Southern Oscillation from 1993 to 2023
Oceanologia, 68 (2)/2026, 68211, 19 pp.
https://doi.org/10.5697/JWPI2821
Martono1,*, Noir P. Purba3, Heru Santoso1, Yosef Prihanto1, Amaliah Nurlatifah1, Teguh Harjana1, Edy Maryadi2
1Center for Climate and Atmospheric Research – Indonesian National Research and Innovation Agency, Bandung, Indonesia;
e-mail: mart001@brin.go.id (Martono)
2Research Centre for Artificial Intelligence and Cyber Security – Indonesian National Research and Innovation Agency, Bandung, Indonesia
3Department of Marine Science, Faculty of Fisheries and Marine Science, Padjadjaran University, Jatinangor, Indonesia
Keywords:
Monsoon; Eastward currents; ENSO; IOD
Received: 28 June 2025; revised: 4 March 2026; accepted: 12 March 2026
Highlights
- The South Java Coastal Current (SJCC) usually forms from October to May.
- Negative IOD and La Niña events can strengthen the SJCC during June to September.
- Positive IOD and El Niño events weaken the SJCC, especially from October to January.
- The IOD has a stronger impact on SJCC than ENSO.
Abstract
The South Java Coastal Current (SJCC) transports warm water from the tropical Indian Ocean toward the southeast along the coastal areas of western Sumatra and southern Java. This study aims to reconstruct the SJCC and examine its seasonal and interannual variations during different phases of the Indian Ocean Dipole (IOD) and El Niño–Southern Oscillation (ENSO) from 1993 to 2023. Surface ocean currents were examined using the Ocean Surface Current Analysis Real-time (OSCAR) dataset, along with sea level anomaly (SLA), ERA5 surface wind, Niño 3.4, and Dipole Mode Index (DMI). Results reveal that, on the intraseasonal timescale, the SJCC exhibits a dominant periodicity of about 76 days. In general, the eastward surface currents along the southern waters of Java are formed throughout the year. From June to September, the eastward surface currents are usually absent under normal conditions but appear during negative IOD and La Niña events, driven by wind mechanisms and Kelvin wave activity. Conversely, during positive IOD and El Niño events, the eastward surface currents weaken significantly or are suppressed, especially from October to January. The influence of IOD events on the eastward surface currents is stronger than that of ENSO. The variability of the eastward surface currents is affected not only by seasonal monsoon winds but also by large-scale ocean-atmosphere interactions and the movement of equatorial Kelvin waves. Understanding these processes
is essential for more accurate prediction of regional circulation, heat transfer, and climate variability in the southeastern tropical Indian Ocean.
References
Adiwira, H., Purba, N.P., Harahap, S.A., Syamsuddin, M.L., 2018.
Variabilitas suhu laut pada kejadian IOD (Indian Ocean Dipole) di perairan
barat Sumatera menggunakan data Argo Float. Depik 7 (1), 28–41.
https://doi.org/10.13170/depik.7.1.8089
Aldrian, E., Susanto, R.D., 2003.
Identification of three dominant rainfall
regions within Indonesia and their relationship to sea surface
temperature. Int. J. Climatol. 23, 1435–1452.
https://doi.org/10.1002/joc.950
Ashok, K., Guan, Z., Yamagata, T., 2001.
Impact of the Indian Ocean dipole
on the relationship between the Indian monsoon rainfall and ENSO. Geophys.
Res. Lett. 28, 4499–4502.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2001GL013294
Atmadipoera, A.S., Jasmine, A.S., Purba, M., Kuswardani, A.R.T.D., 2020.
Upwelling characteristics in the southern Java waters during strong La Nina
2010 and super El Ňino 2015. Jurnal Ilmu dan Teknologi Kelautan Tropis 12
(1), 257–276.
http://doi.org/10.29244/jitkt.v12i1.28977
Atmadipoera, A.S., Koch-Laroy, A., Madec, G., Grelet, J., Baurand, F., Jaya,
I., Dadou, I., 2022.
Part I: Hydrological properties within the eastern
Indonesian throughflow region during the INDOMIX experiment. Deep Sea Res.
Pt. I, 182 (4), 1–10.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.dsr.2022.103735
Bonjean, F., Lagerloef, G.S.E., 2002.
Diagnostic model and analysis of the
surface currents in the tropical Pacific Ocean. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 32
(10), 2938–2954.
https://doi.org/10.1175/1520-0485(2002)032<2938:DMAAOT>2.0.CO;2
Chen, G., Han, W., Wang, D., Zhang, L., Chu, X., He, Y., Chen, J., 2022.
Seasonal structure and interannual variation of the South Equatorial
Current in the Indian Ocean. J. Geophys. Res.-Oceans 127 (11), 1–13.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2022JC018969
Copernicus Marine Service Information, 2024.
SEALEVEL_
GLO_PHY_L4_MY_008_047: Global ocean gridded L4 sea surface heights and derived
variables reprocessed 1993–ongoing. EU Copernicus Marine Service
(CMEMS), Marine Data Store (MDS). Accessed March 2025. Available at:
https://data.marine.copernicus.eu/product/SEALEVEL_GLO_PHY_L4_MY_008_047
Dohan, K., 2017.
Ocean surface currents from satellite data. J.
Geophys.Res. Oceans, 122, 2647–2651.
https://doi.org/10.1002/2017JC012961
Dohan, K., [ESR] 2021.
Ocean Surface Current Analyses Real-time (OSCAR)
Surface Currents – Final 0.25 Degree (Version 2.0) [Data set]. NASA
Physical Oceanography Distributed Active Archive Center. Accessed: 2026-04-24
https://doi.org/10.5067/OSCAR-25F20
Duan, Y., Liu, L., Han, G., Liu, H., Yu, W., Yang, G., Wang, H., Wang, H., Liu,
Y., Zahid., Waheed, H., 2016.
Anomalous behaviors of Wyrtki Jets in the
equatorial Indian Ocean during 2013. Scientific Reports 6, 29688.
https://doi.org/10.1038/srep29688
Feng, M., Wijffels, S., 2002.
Intraseasonal variability in the South
Equatorial Current of the east Indian Ocean. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 32,
265–277.
https://doi.org/10.1175/1520-0485(2002)032<0265:IVITSE>2.0.CO;2
Gingele, F.X., Deckker, P.D., Girault, A., Guichard, F., 2002.
History of
the South Java Current over the past 80 ka. Palaeogeogr. Palaeocl. 183
(3–4), 247–260.
https://doi.org/10.1016/S0031-0182(01)00489-8
Gordon, A.L., 2005.
Oceanography of the Indonesian seas and their
throughflow. Oceanography 18 (4), 14–27.
https://doi.org/10.5670/oceanog.2005.01
Gordon, A.L., Sprintall, J., Van Aken, H.M., Susanto, D., Wijffels, S.,
Molcard, R., Ffield, A., Pranowo, W., Wirasantosa, S., 2010.
The Indonesian
throughflow during 2004–2006 as observed by the INSTANT program. Dynam.
Atmos. Oceans. 50, 115–128.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.dynatmoce.2009.12.002
Hersbach, H., Bell, B., Berrisford, P., Biavati, G., Horányi, A., Muñoz
Sabater, J., Nicolas, J., Peubey, C., Radu, R., Rozum, I., Schepers, D.,
Simmons, A., Soci, C., Dee, D., Thépaut, J.-N., 2023.
ERA5 monthly
averaged data on pressure levels from 1940 to present. Copernicus Climate
Change Service (C3S) Climate Data Store (CDS). Accessed: March, 2025.
https://doi.org/10.24381/cds.6860a573
Hersbach, H., Bell, B., Berrisford, P., Hirahara, S., Horányi, A.,
Muñoz-Sabater, J., Nicolas, J., Peubey, C., Radu, R., Schepers, D., Simmons,
A., Soci, C., Abdalla, S., Abellan, X., Balsamo, G., Bechtold, P., Biavati, G.,
Bidlot, J., Bonavita, M., De Chiara, G., Dahlgren, P., Dee, D., Diamantakis,
M., Dragani, R., Flemming, J., Forbes, R., Fuentes, M., Geer, A., Haimberger,
L., Healy, S., Hogan, R.J., Hólm, E., Janisková, M., Keeley, S., Laloyaux,
P., Lopez, P., Lupu, C., Radnoti, G., de Rosnay, P., Rozum, I., Vamborg, F.,
Villaume, S., Jean-Noël Thépaut, J.N., 2020.
The ERA5 global
reanalysis. Q. J. Roy. Meteor. Soc. 146 (730), 1999–2049.
https://doi.org/10.1002/qj.3803
Hood, R.R., Bange, H.W., Beal, L., Beckley, L.E., Burkill, P., Cowie, G.L.,
D’Adamo, N., Ganssen, G., Hendon, H., Hermes, J., Honda, M., McPhaden, M.,
Roberts, M., Singh, S., Urban, E., Yu, Y., 2015.
Science Plan of the Second
International Indian Ocean Expedition (IIOE-2): A Basin-Wide Research
Program. Scientific Committee on Oceanic Research, Newark, Delaware, USA.
https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00651/76340/77331.pdf
Iskandar, I., McPhaden, M.J., 2011.
Dynamics of wind-forced intraseasonal
zonal current variations in the equatorial Indian Ocean. J. Geophys. Res.
116 (C6), C06019.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2010JC006864
Iskandar, I., Tozuka, T., Sasaki, H., Masumoto, Y., Yamagata, T., 2006.
Intraseasonal variations of surface and subsurface currents off Java as
simulated in a high-resolution ocean general circulation model. J.
Geophys. Res. 111 (C12), C12015.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2006JC003486
Jin, X., Wright, J.S., 2020.
Contributions of Indonesian Throughflow to
eastern Indian Ocean surface variability during ENSO events. Atmos Sci
Lett. 21, e979.
https://doi.org/10.1002/asl.979
Johnson, E.S., Bonjean, F., Lagerloef, G.S.E., Gunn, J.T., Mitchum, G.T., 2007.
Validation and error analysis of OSCAR sea surface currents. J. Atmos.
Oceanic Tech. 24 (4), 688–701.
https://doi.org/10.1175/JTECH1971.1
Kuswardani, R.T.D., Qiao, F., 2014.
Influence of the Indonesian Throughflow
on the upwelling off the east coast of South Java. Chin. Sci. Bull. 59
(33), 4516–4523.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s11434-014-0549-2
Le Traon, P.Y., Nadal, F., Ducet, N., 1998.
An improved mapping method of
multisatellite altimeter data. J. Atmos. Ocean. Tech. 15 (2), 522–534.
https://doi.org/10.1175/1520-0426(1998)015<0522:AIMMOM>2.0.CO;2
Mao, X., Zheng, S., Feng, M., Liang, P., Xie, L., Yang, L., Yan, L., 2024.
Interannual variability the South Equatorial Current in the Southeast
Indian Ocean associated with El Niño-Southern Oscillation. J. Climate, 38
(3), 545–562.
https://doi.org/10.1175/JCLI-D-23-0725.1
Michida, Y., Yoritaka, H., 1996.
Surface currents in the area of the
Indo-Pacific throughflow and in the tropical Indian Ocean observed with surface
drifters. J. Geophys. Res. - Ocean, 101 (5).
https://doi.org/10.1029/96JC00035
Nagura, M., McPhaden, M.J., 2008.
The dynamics of zonal current variations
in the central equatorial Indian Ocean. Geophys. Res. Lett. 35, L23603.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2008GL035961
Ningsih, N.S., Rakhmaputeri, N., Harto, A.B., 2013.
Upwelling Variability
along the Southern Coast of Bali and in Nusa Tenggara Waters. Ocean Sci.
J. 48 (1), 49–57.
https://doi.org//10.1007/s12601-013-0004-3
Ningsih, N.S., Sakina, S.L., Susanto, R.D., Hanifah, F., 2021.
Simulated
zonal current characteristics in the southeastern tropical Indian Ocean
(SETIO). Ocean Sci. 17, 1115–1140.
https://doi.org/10.5194/os-17-1115-2021
Phillips, H.E., Tandon, A., Furue, R., Hood, R., Ummenhofer, C.C., Benthuysen,
J.A., Menezes, V., Hu, S., Webber, B., Sanchez-Franks, A., Cherian, D.,
Shroyer, E., Feng, M., Wijesekera, H., Chatterjee, A., Yu, L., Hermes, J.,
Murtugudde, R., Tozuka, T., Su, D., Singh, A., Centurioni, L., Prakash, S.,
Wiggert, J., 2021.
Progress in understanding of Indian Ocean circulation,
variability, air–sea exchange, and impacts on biogeochemistry. Ocean
Sci. 17 (6), 1677–1751.
https://doi.org/10.5194/os-17-1677-2021
Potemra, J.T., 1999.
Seasonal Variations of upper ocean transport from the
Pacific to the Indian Ocean via Indonesianstraits. J.Phys. Oceanogr.
29(11), 2930–2944.
https://doi.org/10.1175/1520-0485(1999)029<2930:SVOUOT>2.0.CO;2
Pranowo, W.S., Kuswardani, A.R.T.D., Nugraha, B., Novianto, D., Muawanah, U.,
Prihatno, H., Yu, W., 2016.
Ocean Climate Interaction of South Eastern
Indian Ocean for Tuna Fisheries and Its Socio-Economy Impacts. Int. J.
Sci. Res. 5 (4), 1956–1961.
https://openknowledge.fao.org/items/d8e50e6e-3359-490b-9ba6-b45ae53ca2c9
Purba, N.P., Khan, A.M., 2019.
Upwelling session in Indonesian waters.
World News of Natural Sciences, 25, 1–10.
Qu, T., Du, Y., Strachan, J., Meyers, G., Slingo, J., 2005.
Sea surface
temperature and its variability in the Indonesian region. Oceanography 18
(4), 50–61.
https://doi.org/10.5670/oceanog.2005.05
Quadfasel, D., Cresswell, G.R., 1992.
A note on the seasonal variability of
the South Java Current. J. Geophys. Res. 97 (3685).
https://doi.org/10.1029/91JC03056
Rayner, N.A., Parker, D.E., Horton, E.B., Folland, C.K., Alexander, L.V.,
Rowell, D.P., Kent, E.C., Kaplan, A., 2003.
Global analyses of sea surface
temperature, sea ice, and night marine air temperature since the late
nineteenth century. J. Geophys. Res. - Atmospheres, 108 (D14), 4407.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2002JD002670
Rio, M.H., Mulet, S., Picot, N., 2014.
Beyond GOCE for the ocean
circulation estimate: Synergetic use of altimetry, gravimetry, and in situ data
provides the most accurate ocean circulation to date. Geophys. Res. Lett.
41 (24), 8918–8925.
https://doi.org/10.1002/2014GL061773
Röhrs, J., Sutherland, G., Jeans, G., Bedington, M., Sperrevik, A.K.,
Dagestad, K.F., Gusdal, Y., Mauritzen, C., Dale, A., LaCasce, J.H., 2021.
Surface currents in operational oceanography: Key applications, mechanisms,
and methods. J. Oper. Oceanogr. 16 (1), 60–88.
https://doi.org/10.1080/1755876X.2021.1903221
Saji, N.H., Goswami, B.N., Vinayachandran, P.N., Yamagata, T., 1999.
A
dipole mode in the tropical Indian Ocean. Nature 401, 360–363.
https://doi.org/10.1038/43854
Schott, F.A., McCreary Jr, J.P., 2001.
The monsoon circulation of the
Indian Ocean. Prog. Oceanogr. 51 (1), 1–123.
https://doi.org/10.1016/S0079-6611(01)00083-0
Schott, F.A., Xie, S.P., McCreary, Jr. J.P., 2009.
Indian Ocean circulation
and climate variability. Rev. Geophys. 47, RG1002.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2007RG000245
Soeriatmadja, R.E., 1957.
The coastal current south of Java. Mar. Res.
Indonesia, 3, 41–55.
Sprintall, J., Chong, J., Syamsudin, F., Morawitz, W., Hautala, S., Bray, N.,
Wijffel, S., 1999.
Dynamics of the South Java Current in the
Indo-Australian basin. Geophys. Res. Lett. 26 (16), 2493–2496.
https://doi.org/10.1029/1999GL002320
Sprintall, J., Gordon, A.L., Wijffels, S.E., Feng, M., Hu, S., Koch-Larrouy,
A., Phillips, H., Nugroho, D., Napitu, A., Pujiana, K., Susanto, R.D., Sloyan,
B., Peña-Molino, B., Yuan, D., Riama, N.F., Siswanto, S., Kuswardani, A.,
Arifin, Z., Wahyudi, A.J., Zhou, H., Nagai, T., Ansong, J.K.,
Bourdalle-Badié, R., Chanut, J., Lyard, F., Arbic, B.K., Ramdhani, A.,
Setiawan, A., 2019.
Detecting change in the Indonesian seas. Front.
Mar. Sci. 6, 257.
http://doi.org/10.3389/fmars.2019.00257
Sprintall, J., Wijffels, S., Molcard, R., Jaya, I., 2010.
Direct evidence
of the South Java Current system in Ombai Strait. Dynam. Atmos. Oceans, 50
(2), 140–156.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.dynatmoce.2010.02.006
Srivasta, A., Martin, G.M., Pradhan, M., Rao, S.A., Ineson, S., 2025.
The
multi-year negative Indian Ocean Dipole of 2021–2022. EGUshere
[preprint].
http://doi.org/10.5194/egushere-2025-2303
Susanto, R.D., Gordon, A.L., Zheng, Q.N., 2001.
Upwelling along the coasts
of Java and Sumatra sand its relation to ENSO. Geophys. Res. Lett. 28 (8),
1599–1602.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2000GL011844
Susanto, R.D., Marra, J., 2005.
Effect of the 1997/98 El Niño on
chlorophyll a variability along the southern coasts of Java and Sumatra.
Oceanography 18 (4), 24–127.
https://doi.org/10.5670/oceanog.2005.13
Syamsudin, F., Kaneko, A., 2013.
Ocean variability along the southern coast
of Java and Lesser Sunda Islands. J. Oceanogr. 69, 557–570.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s10872-013-0192-6
Trenberth, K.E., 1997.
The definition of El Niño. Bull. Am. Meteor.
Soc. 78 (12), 2771–2777.
https://doi.org/10.1175/1520-0477(1997)078<2771:TDOENO>2.0.CO;2
Tussadiah, A., Syamsuddin, M.L., Pranowo, W.S., Purba, N.P., Riyantini, I.,
2016.
Eddy vertical structure in southern Java Indian Ocean: Identification
using Automated Eddies Detection. Int. J. Sci. Res. 5 (3), 967–971.
https:doi.org/10.21274/NOV162003
Utamy, R.M., Purba, N.P., Pranowo, W.S., Suherman, H., 2015.
The Pattern of
South Equatorial Current and primary productivity in South Java seas.
[In:] 2015 5th International Conference on Environment Science and
Biotechnology (ICESB 2015), IPCBEE Vol.81.
https://doi.org/10.7763/IPCBEE
Utari, P.A., Setiabudidaya, D., Khakim, M.Y.N., Iskandar, I., 2019.
Dynamics of the South Java Coastal Current revealed by RAMA observing
network. Terr. Atmos. Ocean. Sci. 30 (2), 1–11.
https://doi.org/10.3319/TAO.2018.12.14.01
Webster, P.J., Moore, A.M., Loschnigg, J.P., Leben, R.R., 1999.
Coupled
ocean-atmosphere dynamics in the Indian Ocean during 1997–1998. Nature
401, 356–360.
https://doi.org/10.1038/43848
Wen, C., Wang, Z., Wang, J., Li, H., Shi, X., Gao, W., Huang, H., 2023.
Variation of the coastal upwelling off South Java and their impact on local
fishery resources. J. Oceanol. Limnol. 41 (1), 1389–1404.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s00343-022-2031-3
Wijffels, S.E., Bray, N., Hautala, S., Meyers, G., Morawitz, W.M.L., 1996.
The WOCE Indonesian Throughflow Repeat Hydrography Sections: I10 and
IR6. Int. WOCE Newslett. 24, 25–18.
https://oceanrep.geomar.de/id/eprint/5309/1/news24.pdf
Wijffels, S.E., Sprintall, J., Fieux, M., Bray, N., 2002.
The JADE and WOCE
I10/IR6 Throughflow sections in the southeast Indian Ocean. Part 1: water mass
distribution and variability. Deep Sea Res. Pt. II, 49 (7–8),
1341–1362.
https://doi.org/10.1016/S0967-0645(01)00155-2
Wilson, L.J., Fulton, C.J., McC Hogg, A., Joyce, K.E., Radford, B.T.M., Fraser,
C.I., 2016.
Climate-driven changes to ocean circulation and their inferred
impacts on marine dispersal patterns. Global Ecol. Biogeogr. 25,
923–939.
https://doi.org/10.1111/geb.12456
Wirasatriya, A., Setiawan, J.D., Sugianto, D.N., Rosyadi, I.A., Haryadi.,
Winarso, G., Setiawan, R.Y., Susanto, R.D., 2020.
Ekman dynamics
variability along the southern coast of Java revealed by satellite data.
Int. J. Remote Sens. 41 (21), 8475–8496.
https://doi.org/10.1080/01431161.2020.1797215
Wrytki, K., 1961.
Physical Oceanography of the Southeast Asian Waters.
Naga Rep. Vol. 2. Scripps Inst. Oceanogr., California.
https://escholarship.org/content/qt49n9x3t4/qt49n9x3t4.pdf
Wyrtki, K., 1962.
The Upwelling in the Region between Java and Australia
during the Southeast Monsoon. Mar. Freshwater Res. 13 (3), 217–225.
https://doi.org/10.1071/MF9620217
Wyrtki, K., 1973.
An equatorial jet in the Indian Ocean. Science 181,
262–264.
https://doi.org/10.1126/science.181.4096.262
Wu, P., Arbain, A.A., Mori, S., Hamada, J., Hattori, M., Syamsudin, F.,
Yamanaka, M.D., 2013.
The Effects of an Active Phase of the Madden-Julian
Oscillation on the Extreme Precipitation Event over Western Java Island in
January 2013. SOLA 9, 79–83.
https://doi.org/10.2151/sola.2013-018
Xu, X., Wang, L., Yu, W., 2021.
The unique mean seasonal cycle in the
Indian Ocean anchors its various air-sea coupled modes across the basin.
Sci. Rep. 11, 5632.
https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-021-84936-w
Yu, Y., Zhang, D., Lin, X., 2019.
Seasonal and interannual variations of
the Indonesian Throughflow derived from OSCAR and reanalysis data. J.
Phys. Oceanogr. 49 (6), 1449–1466.
https://doi.org/10.1175/JPO-D-18-0240.1