Oceanologia No. 68 (2) / 26


Original Research Articles


Original Research Articles



Energy as a tool to study tsunami–bathymetry interaction
Oceanologia, 68 (2)/2026, 68201, 19 pp.
https://doi.org/10.5697/THCD1574

Zygmunt Kowalik
College of Fisheries and Ocean Sciences, University of Alaska, Fairbanks, Alaska, USA;
e-mail: zkowalik@alaska.edu (Z. Kowalik)

Keywords: Tsunami; Kinetic and potential energy; Energy equilibrium; Reflection at depth discontinuity; Japan tsunami 2011; Seamount tsunami interaction

Received: 10 April 2025; revised: 20 January 2026; accepted: 23 February 2026

Highlights

Abstract

This study introduces a new framework for investigating tsunami propagation and its interaction with bathymetry by decomposing total energy into kinetic and potential components. Unlike conventional approaches based on wave amplitude or energy flux, this decomposition reveals local energy imbalances that arise when a tsunami interacts with variable bathymetry. These imbalances provide a new diagnostic tool for quantifying reflection and for distinguishing regions dominated by velocity (kinetic energy) or sea-level displacement (potential energy). The method is first tested in an idealized channel with a depth discontinuity. In addition to the expected incident, reflected, and transmitted waves, an imbalance between kinetic and potential energy emerges, with its magnitude controlled by the depth contrast. This imbalance forms the basis for defining a new reflection coefficient. The approach is then applied to the 2011 Japan Tōhoku Tsunami. Results show that kinetic and potential energies remain in equilibrium during long-distance propagation but diverge near major bathymetric features such as Koko Guyot Seamount and Hess Rise, where the imbalance depends on the relative depth between the seafloor and the seamount summit. Finally, an elliptical seamount model illustrates the limitations of the method and clarifies the conditions under which energy imbalance is most relevant.

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Seasonal and spatial variability of Fluorescent Dissolved Organic Matter in the southern Baltic Sea
Oceanologia, 68 (2)/2026, 68202, 28 pp.
https://doi.org/10.5697/RQTA2991

Monika Zabłocka*, Piotr Kowalczuk, Aleksandra Winogradow, Karol Kuliński
Institute of Oceanology, Polish Academy of Sciences, Powstańców Warszawy 55, 81–712 Sopot, Poland;
e-mail: monika_z@iopan.pl (M. Zabłocka)
*corresponding author

Keywords: Fluorescent Dissolved Organic Matter (FDOM); Chromophoric Dissolved Organic Matter (CDOM); Gulf of Gdańsk; Parallel Factor Analysis (PARAFAC)

Received: 2 April 2025; revised: 28 November 2025; accepted: 16 December 2025

Highlights

Abstract

This study presents a comprehensive analysis of Fluorescent (FDOM) and Chromophoric (CDOM) Dissolved Organic Matter in the southern Baltic Sea, enhancing our understanding of its composition, sources, and dynamics in a semi-enclosed marine system. The Baltic Sea’s unique hydrography and strong freshwater inflow served as a natural laboratory for investigating interactions between terrestrial and marine Dissolved Organic Matter (DOM). We examined spatial and seasonal variations of CDOM and FDOM, using absorption and fluorescence spectroscopy combined with parallel factor analysis (PARAFAC). Six fluorophore groups (C1–C6) were identified, with humic-like components (C1–C3, C5) of terrestrial and marine origin dominating the FDOM composition. Protein-like components (C4, C6) were more prominent in Open Waters (OW), particularly in late summer and fall. Humic-like fluorescence intensity (Ih) contributed 61–96% to total fluorescence (Itot). The total fluorescence intensity was much higher in the Gulf and Coastal Waters, GCW than in the Open Waters (OW) of the Baltic Sea. The vertical distributions of FDOM varied by region. In the Open Baltic Deep Waters (OBDW) the highest Ih values were observed near the bottom, likely resulting from diffusion of DOM from sediments, and the lowest at the surface. In the Gulf of Gdańsk Deep Waters (GGDW) Ih was the lowest in the Baltic Sea Winter Water (BSWW). Ip was the highest at the surface and the weakest at the bottom, in both areas.
This study offers new insight into the spatial, seasonal, and vertical behavior of FDOM and underscores its sensitivity to environmental conditions.

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Glacial bay as a local hot spot for retention and accumu­lation of heavy metals transported with glacier meltwater (Hornsund, Svalbard)
Oceanologia, 68 (2)/2026, 68203, 12 pp.
https://doi.org/10.5697/10.5697/WCPQ5217

Blanka Pajda1, Mateusz Moskalik2, Agata Zaborska*,1
1Institute of Oceanology, Polish Academy of Sciences, Powstańców Warszawy 55, 81-712 Sopot, Poland;
e-mail: agata@iopan.pl (A. Zaborska)
2Institute of Geophysics, Polish Academy of Sciences, Księcia Janusza 64, 01-452 Warsaw, Poland
*corresponding author

Keywords: Heavy metals; Pollutants; Melting glaciers; SPM; Glacial bays

Received: 3 September 2024; revised: 18 December 2025; accepted: 22 December 2025

Highlights

Abstract

In this study, we aim to understand the influence of an underwater sill on the fate of suspended particulate material (SPM) discharged by a melting tidewater glacier in an Arctic glacial bay. We examined the potential significance of SPM retention for the bay’s environment by analysing the fate of heavy metals introduced by glacier meltwater. Semi-enclosed bays with sills can not only limit water exchange but also act as effective traps for SPM and, consequently, for components, e.g., pollutants adsorbed onto these particles. Enhanced deposition of particulate pollutants can locally pose a threat to the ecosystem. We focus on Hansbukta, a glacial bay in Hornsund Fjord (Svalbard) that receives freshwater from the rapidly melting Hansbreen, a tidewater glacier. We analysed suspended particulate matter (SPM) concentrations and associated heavy metal content in six ablation seasons (2015–2020). Our results reveal seasonal variability in SPM and metal concentrations. In most months, over half of the analysed elements discharged with glacier meltwater remain in the bay. It was concluded that Hansbukta, which is isolated from the main fjord basin by an underwater sill, acts as a trap for metals and possibly other pollutants.

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The influence of seasonal hydrography and nutrient regimes on micro-phytoplankton assemblages in the coastal waters of Jeddah, central Red Sea
Oceanologia, 68 (2)/2026, 68204, 19 pp.
https://doi.org/10.5697/JZIS4816

Reny Palliparambil Devassy1, Vidyanandan Remadevi Shamji2, Faisal Mana Alsaaq2, Turki Metabe Alraddadi3, Mohsen Mohamed El-Sherbiny4,*
1Almobdioon Center for Studies, Consultancy, and Training, King Abdulaziz University, Jeddah, Saudi Arabia
2Faculty of Maritime Studies, King Abdulaziz University, P.O Box 80401, Jeddah, Saudi Arabia
3Department of Marine Physics, Faculty of Marine Science, King Abdulaziz University, P.O Box 80207, Jeddah 21589, Saudi Arabia
4Department of Marine Biology, Faculty of Marine Science, King Abdulaziz University, P.O Box 80207, Jeddah 21589, Saudi Arabia;
e-mail: ooomar@kau.edu.sa (M. M. El-Sherbiny)
*corresponding author

Keywords: Phytoplankton; Anthropogenic influences; Abundance; Coastal waters; Red Sea

Received: 14 October 2025; revised: 30 November 2025; accepted: 22 December 2025

Highlights

Abstract

This study examined spatial and temporal variations in hydrography, nutrients, and phytoplankton along the Jeddah coast, Red Sea. Temperature ranged from 26.2 ± 0.14°C (February) to 33.4 ± 0.17°C (August), with minimal salinity changes. Nitrate, silicate, and SPM were elevated in the central region. Chlorophyll a and phytoplankton abundances peaked there, reaching 1.54 mg m-3 in October and 43,393 × 103 cells m-3 in July. Centric diatoms (Proboscia alata) dominated in summer, pennate diatoms (Lioloma elongatum) in May, and dinoflagellates in June (1246 × 103 cells m-3). Cyanophytes peaked in November. In total, 284 species, including 40 harmful taxa, were identified, mainly diatoms and dinoflagellates.

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Barrier layer formation and dynamics in the Red Sea based on Argo profiles and sea level anomaly analysis
Oceanologia, 68 (2)/2026, 68205, 21 pp.
https://doi.org/10.5697/UHUO2457

Hadeel A. Alsayed1, Mohammed A. Alsaafani1,2,*, Turki M. Alraddadi1
1Department of Marine Physics, Faculty of Marine Sciences, King Abdulaziz University, P.O. Box 80207, Jeddah 21589, Saudi Arabia;
e-mail: malsaafani@kau.edu.s (M. A. Alsaafani)
2Department of Environmental Sciences, Faculty of Petroleum and Natural Science, Sana’a University, Sana’a, Yemen
*corresponding author

Keywords: Barrier layer; Argo floats; Red Sea; Deep convection; Mixed layer

Received: 6 May 2025; revised: 7 January 2025; accepted: 18 January 2026

Highlights

Abstract

This study presents the first comprehensive investigation of the barrier layer (BL) in the Red Sea (RS) based on Argo float observations from 2012 to 2018, combined with sea level anomaly (SLA) data. The BL is defined as the layer between the temperature-based mixed layer (MLT) and the density-based mixed layer (MLD). The RS is divided into three regions – north (26°N–22°N), central (22°N–18°N), and south (18°N–14°N) – to analyze the spatial and temporal variability of the BL. The results show strong evidence of BL presence in all three regions during winter, with maximum thickness observed in January–February, decay by April, and almost no BL during summer. The BL is thickest in the north due to winter cooling and convection, with salinity stratification deepening the MLT below the MLD. It is more moderate and persistent in the central basin, and thinner and short-lived in the south. Buoyancy frequency and salinity analysis confirm that haline stratification stabilizes the water column and sustains the barrier layer. SLA data were used to examine the impact of mesoscale eddies, indicating that anticyclonic eddies (AEs) enhance BL thickness through convergence and downwelling, whereas cyclonic eddies (CEs) tend to erode the BL by shoaling the mixed layer. In the northern RS, unusual deep mixed layers sometimes occur within CEs, which is consistent with the convective overturning during winter. These findings provide the first description of BL characteristics, which improve our understanding of Red Sea upper ocean dynamics, vertical mixing, and climate interactions.

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Coupled current-wave simulation reveals sea surface heat fluxes responses to diurnal skin sea surface temperature modulation in the Sunda Strait
Oceanologia, 68 (2)/2026, 68206, 20 pp.
https://doi.org/10.5697/WMRG9198

Eko Supriyadi1,2, Tania June1,*, Agus Saleh Atmadipoera3, Andri Ramdhani4
1Department of Geophysics and Meteorology, Faculty of Mathematics and Natural Sciences, IPB University, Darmaga, Bogor, 16680, Indonesia;
e-mail: taniajune@apps.ipb.ac.id (T. June)
2Marine Meteorology Center, BMKG, Kemayoran, Jakarta, 10610, Indonesia
3Department of Marine Science and Technology, Faculty of Fisheries and Marine Science, IPB University, Darmaga, Bogor, 16680, Indonesia
4Public Meteorology Center, BMKG, Kemayoran, Jakarta, 10610, Indonesia
*corresponding author

Keywords: Skin SST; Wind speed; Sea surface energy balance; Sunda Strait; ROMS; SWAN

Received: 1 September 2025; revised: 7 December 2025; accepted: 23 January 2026

Highlights

Abstract

The Sunda Strait, a critical interoceanic conduit between the Pacific and Indian Oceans, exhibits a unique relationship between the skin SST (Ts) and the sea surface energy balance. This study aims to model the cool skin (ΔTc) and warm layer (ΔTw) using a coupled Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS) and the Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) model. The focus is on analyzing the characteristics of ΔTc and ΔTw, quantifying the diurnal variability of the ΔTc, developing a correction of the bulk SST (Tb) to Ts, and analyzing the sea surface energy balance relative to Ts. Results show that the ΔTc layer contributes an average cooling of −0.2°C that varies diurnally and increases with wind speed (U10) up to 8 m s−1 and stabilizes near −0.1°C. A two-step correction based on U10 and the diurnal cycle was applied to minimize the discrepancy between Tb and Ts, successfully eliminating the combined influence of ΔTc and ΔTwTcw). Compared to other models, the proposed model shows a high correlation between ΔTcw and U10 in the Indian Ocean, Sunda Strait, and Java Sea of 0.69, 0.74, and 0.88, respectively. This study also shows that Ts has an ocean regimes and seasonal relationship context with U10, net shortwave flux (Rcw), net longwave flux (Rlw), net sensible heat flux (Rshf), and net latent heat flux (Rlhf). These findings establish Ts as a critical diagnostic parameter for understanding air-sea fluxes in tropical strait systems.

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Seabed saturation conditions from in-situ measurements performed on Norderney
Oceanologia, 68 (2)/2026, 68207, 17 pp.
https://doi.org/10.5697/YIAX1215

Waldemar Magda
Department of Geotechnical and Hydraulic Engineering, Gdańsk University of Technology, 11/12 Gabriela Narutowicza Street, 80-233 Gdańsk, Poland;
e-mail: waldemar.magda@pg.edu.pl (W. Magda)

Keywords: Coastal engineering; Intertidal zone; Partly saturated seabed; Degree of saturation; In-situ seabed sampling; Statistical analysis

Received: 13 July 2025; revised: 18 January 2026; accepted: 23 February 2026

Highlights

Abstract

This paper deals with an important coastal engineering problem of defining proper seabed saturation conditions, which have a significant influence on the pore-fluid compressibility and the wave-induced cyclic response of poro-elastic seabed sediments. A unique in-situ measuring campaign was conducted in the tidal zone of the northern beach of Norderney, off the North Sea coast of Germany, where 186 sandy seabed samples were taken underwater. Based on the laboratory measurements, a set of calculated saturation degrees was statistically analyzed. Both the histogram and the normal Q-Q plot, as well as the Shapiro-Wilk normality test, confirmed the validity of the assumption of the normal probability distribution for the variability of the degree of saturation. The mean degree of saturation of the top layer of the se usabed, (r) = 0.973, constitutes the main output of the study, whereas the uncertainty propagation analysis enabled to define the possible range of variation, which is 0.962 ≤ (r) ≤ 0.986. It should be clearly emphasised that a proper assessment of the seabed saturation conditions is very important, mainly due to the correctness of the description of the wave-induced pore-fluid pressure field used in more detailed analyses of the pore-fluid pressure gradients and the liquefaction potential of the seabed, which have a direct impact on phenomena such as sand transport on beaches, seabed erosion, and stability of coastal structures (e.g. breakwaters and submarine buried pipelines).

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Limited effect of the electromagnetic field associated with submarine power cables on the growth of the Baltic macroalgae
Oceanologia, 68 (2)/2026, 68208, 11 pp.
https://doi.org/10.5697/HBPW8897

Magdalena Jakubowska-Lehrmann1,*, Aleksandra Zgrundo2,*, Daniel Czmajduch2, Zbigniew Otremba3
1National Marine Fisheries Research Institute, Kołłątaja 1, 81-332 Gdynia, Poland;
e-mail: mjakubowska@mir.gdynia.pl (M. Jakubowska-Lehrmann)
2Division of Marine Ecosystems Functioning, Faculty of Oceanography and Geography, University of Gdańsk, Al. Piłsudskiego 46, 81-378 Gdynia, Poland;
e-mail: aleksandra.zgrundo@ug.edu.pl (A. Zgrundo)
3Department of Physics, Gdynia Maritime University, Morska 81-87, 81-225, Gdynia, Poland
*corresponding author

Keywords: Electromagnetic field; Submarine cables; Offshore wind farms; Fucus vesiculosus; Furcellaria lumbricalis; Ocean Multi-Use

Received: 6 October 2025; revised: 23 February 2026; accepted: 2 March 2026

Highlights

Abstract

Magnetic fields generated by submarine cables and marine renewable energy devices may negatively affect organisms living nearby. At the same time, the number of projects related to the strategic integration of low-trophic aquaculture within offshore wind farms is increasing. As there is a complete lack of information on the effects of magnetic fields on macroalgae, in our study, we investigated the effects of an electromagnetic field (EMF; 50 Hz, 1 mT) on the basic indicators of macroalgal functioning in two Baltic species of commercial value, Fucus vesiculosus and Furcellaria lumbricalis. EMF had a limited effect on the growth of both species. No changes were observed in nutrient uptake rates, water content, or organic matter content.

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Characteristics of Malacca Strait Throughflow during Indian Ocean Dipole mode 2020–2024
Oceanologia, 68 (2)/2026, 68209, 15 pp.
https://doi.org/10.5697/QISX9789

Noir P. Purba1,2,*, Martono3, Ghelby M. Faid2, Hind Azidane4, Raffy R. Alfarez2, Muhammad H. Ilmi2, Noor C.D. Aryanto5
1Faculty of Fishery and Marine Science, Department of Marine Science, Universitas Padjadjaran, Bandung, Indonesia;
e-mail: noir.purba@unpad.ac.id (N. P. Purba)
2KomitmenX Research Group, Universitas Padjadjaran, Bandung, Indonesia
3Research and Innovation Agency (BRIN), Jakarta, Indonesia
4Faculty of Sciences, Department of Geology, Ibn Tofail University, Kénitra, Morocco
5Research Centre for Geological Resources, National Research and Innovation Agency (BRIN), Bandung, Indonesia

Keywords: Water mass stability; Rupat Strait; T-S diagram; Surface currents; Indonesian throughflow

Received: 17 September 2025; revised: 17 December 2025; accepted: 23 February 2026

Highlights

Abstract

The hydrographic dynamics of the Malacca Strait Througflow (MST) during Indian Ocean Dipole (IOD) events remain poorly characterized, particularly for recent years. This study investigates the characteristics of water masses and circulation from 2020 to 2024 during different IOD phases. High-resolution ocean model data from Copernicus Marine Service (CMEMS) model outputs were examined using statistical analyses of temperature, salinity, and oxygen variability, complemented by volume transport and Lagrangian simulations to examine circulation pathways. The result revealed a strong north-south gradient in water-mass properties, where the northern region is significantly affected by Andaman Sea waters, which are higher in salinity and oxygen-depleted. The southern region receives water from the Java Sea and the South China Sea, which are warmer and less saline. The middle region serves as a mixing zone between the northern and southern water masses. Seasonal variations are most evident in surface waters, whereas deep-water characteristics remain stable throughout the seasons. Evidence indicates that different mixing processes occur in each region, affecting the distribution of water properties. IOD phases significantly modulate MST conditions. The positive IOD phases result in warmer temperatures, lower oxygen levels, and more stable salinity due to decreased freshwater input. In contrast, negative phases lead to cooler temperatures, higher oxygen concentrations, and lower salinity due to increased rainfall and runoff. Crucially, particle tracking revealed a bifurcated flow, with pathways towards both the Andaman Sea and the Java Sea, and volume transport increased by 7.02% in the south during positive IOD. These findings highlight the MST’s complex and regionally heterogeneous response to climate variability.

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Semidiurnal and diurnal barotropic currents in the inner shelf and surf zone of the west coast of India: Measurements and modeling
Oceanologia, 68 (2)/2026, 68210, 20 pp.
https://doi.org/10.5697/PWUX9926

Yadhunath E. M.1,*, Jaya Kumar Seelam2,3, Subeesh M. P.1, Jai Singh2, Luis Ryan2
1Naval Physical and Oceanographic Laboratory, Kochi, India;
e-mail: yadhunath90@gmail.com (Yadhunath, E. M.)
2CSIR – National Institute of Oceanography, Goa, India
3Academy of Scientific & Innovative Research, CSIR–NIO, Goa, India

Keywords: Barotropic tide; Inner shelf; Wave; Surf zone; Delft3d; ADCP

Received: 1 December 2024; revised: 10 January 2026; accepted: 23 February 2026

Highlights

Abstract

We study the dynamics of barotropic currents at semidiurnal and diurnal frequency bands in the inner shelf and surf zone off the west coast of India using moored velocity observations. In both the Inner shelf and the Surf zone, the observed current exhibits significant semidiurnal and diurnal energy. The hourly climatology of residual currents exhibits a strong diurnal variability in the barotropic currents in the both regions. A 2D hydrodynamic model, Delft3d, was implemented, and sensitivity experiments were performed to understand the role of wind and wave in the tidal and diurnal variability of barotropic currents in the region. Surf zone barotropic currents in diurnal band are strongly modulated by the winds. However, wind has minimal influence on the barotropic current in the inner shelf. Sensitivity experiments with and without waves show that, apart from wind, wave parameters have significant influence on the diurnal variability of surf zone currents. Analysis further confirms that diurnal currents in the surf zone are primarily wind-driven, while inner shelf currents are mostly tide-dominated. Overall, this study underscores the necessity of incorporating wind, wave, and tidal forcing to realistically simulate nearshore currents in the inner shelf and surf zone along the west coast of India.

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full, complete article - PDF


Reconstruction of the South Java Coastal Current during the Indian Ocean Dipole and El Niño Southern Oscillation from 1993 to 2023
Oceanologia, 68 (2)/2026, 68211, 19 pp.
https://doi.org/10.5697/JWPI2821

Martono1,*, Noir P. Purba3, Heru Santoso1, Yosef Prihanto1, Amaliah Nurlatifah1, Teguh Harjana1, Edy Maryadi2
1Center for Climate and Atmospheric Research – Indonesian National Research and Innovation Agency, Bandung, Indonesia;
e-mail: mart001@brin.go.id (Martono)
2Research Centre for Artificial Intelligence and Cyber Security – Indonesian National Research and Innovation Agency, Bandung, Indonesia
3Department of Marine Science, Faculty of Fisheries and Marine Science, Padjadjaran University, Jatinangor, Indonesia

Keywords: Monsoon; Eastward currents; ENSO; IOD

Received: 28 June 2025; revised: 4 March 2026; accepted: 12 March 2026

Highlights

Abstract

The South Java Coastal Current (SJCC) transports warm water from the tropical Indian Ocean toward the southeast along the coastal areas of western Sumatra and southern Java. This study aims to reconstruct the SJCC and examine its seasonal and interannual variations during different phases of the Indian Ocean Dipole (IOD) and El Niño–Southern Oscillation (ENSO) from 1993 to 2023. Surface ocean currents were examined using the Ocean Surface Current Analysis Real-time (OSCAR) dataset, along with sea level anomaly (SLA), ERA5 surface wind, Niño 3.4, and Dipole Mode Index (DMI). Results reveal that, on the intraseasonal timescale, the SJCC exhibits a dominant periodicity of about 76 days. In general, the eastward surface currents along the southern waters of Java are formed throughout the year. From June to September, the eastward surface currents are usually absent under normal conditions but appear during negative IOD and La Niña events, driven by wind mechanisms and Kelvin wave activity. Conversely, during positive IOD and El Niño events, the eastward surface currents weaken significantly or are suppressed, especially from October to January. The influence of IOD events on the eastward surface currents is stronger than that of ENSO. The variability of the eastward surface currents is affected not only by seasonal monsoon winds but also by large-scale ocean-atmosphere interactions and the movement of equatorial Kelvin waves. Understanding these processes is essential for more accurate prediction of regional circulation, heat transfer, and climate variability in the southeastern tropical Indian Ocean.

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