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The coast is a dynamic zone where constantly occurring hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes affect the shape of the shore. The paper presents a method based on spatial and spectral analysis of changes in the coastline position based on data obtained from aerial photographs interpretation and Fourier analysis, on the example of the Hel Peninsula. The Hel Peninsula is one of the most interesting accumulation forms of the Polish Baltic coast, where dynamic changes of the seashore cause the occurrence of time-varying sections of accumulation-abrasion of the coastline. For the purpose of detecting the coastline changes, historical aerial photographs from the years 1947, 1957, 1963, 1991 were used. It was assumed that the over-40-year research period, which includes the obtained series of aerial photographs, would allow for a sufficient study of the long-term shoreline changes, which allow for distinguishing the length of characteristic coastline undulations. The quasi-wave signal of the shoreline changes obtained from the aerial photographs interpretation, after using Fourier analysis, enabled an effective and precise identification of the coastline undulation. The spatial analyses, showed that the Hel Peninsula is clearly divided into a part subjected to accumulation processes and an abraded one. Furthermore, the dynamics of coastline changes was determined, showing that the abrasive processes were intensifying. Moreover, spectral Fourier analysis allowed for the precise identification of coastline undulations with dominant lengths. The obtained results of spatial and spectral analysis indicate that abrasive-accumulation sections with a length of about 0.3–4.5 km dominate on the Hel Peninsula shoreline.

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Abstract

The wave friction factor 𝑓𝑤 and the phase lead of the seabed shear stress over the free stream velocity 𝜑 for rough turbulent flow are revisited by utilizing the similarity theory used by Myrhaug (1989). Results are obtained for 𝑓𝑤 and 𝜑 by determining the similarity coefficients using the Dixen et al. (2008) data for large bed roughness. Comparisons are made with other experimental data and wave friction factor formulae. As a result, an approximation for 𝑓𝑤 by disregarding the phase 𝜑 is recommended covering a wide range of amplitude-to-roughness ratios.

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Abstract

The northern Indian Ocean has been warming steadily for over a half-century, especially the north-western Indian Ocean. It is widely reported that the increasing sea surface temperature in the global oceans decreases phytoplankton biomass and productivity. The impacts of long-term variations in the sea surface properties on the phytoplankton biomass (chlorophyll a) are least studied in the northern Indian Ocean. In this study, we have retrieved satellite, model, and ARGO float data sets to investigate the long-term variations in the distributions and trends of major oceanic variables for a better understanding of the respective changes that occurred in chlorophyll a concentration in the central regions of the Arabian Sea (AS) and the Bay of Bengal (BB). We have selected variables such as sea surface temperature (SST), sea surface salinity (SSS), photosynthetically available radiation (PAR), euphotic depth (ZEU), mixed layer depth (MLD), wind speed, mean sea level anomaly (MSLA), surface currents, etc., to relate with chlorophyll a. We found significant increasing trends in SST and positive-MSLA in both basins, and the chlorophyll a was decreased in the AS but contrastingly increased in the BB. Further data analysis revealed the possible reasons, such as seasonal changes in mean sea level anomaly and meridional currents, for the increasing trend of chlorophyll a in the central Bay of Bengal. The northward flow of the meridional currents during the southwest monsoon (SWM), transports the nutrient-rich water from the coastal upwelling zone of the southwest coast of India to the southern and central BB, and enhances chlorophyll a. Contrastingly, the southward flow of low-saline and nutrient-depleted Bay of Bengal water reduces the chlorophyll a. In addition, the large area of cold-core eddies found during the NEM enhanced the chlorophyll a in the central BB. Though contrasting trends between both basins in chlorophyll a distribution were found, the mean concentration of chlorophyll a in the northern Indian Ocean decreases. The present study signifies the importance of monsoon currents and eddies in regulating the chlorophyll a biomass and primary productivity in the AS and BB.

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Abstract

Klaipėda City is located in the Southeast Baltic Sea region, where sea level rise has been observed for decades. The Klaipėda Strait, which separates the Baltic Sea and the Curonian Lagoon, where the port is located, is also more prone to sudden extreme changes in water levels, usually caused by windstorms. Extreme sea level changes pose a threat to port operations, technical structures, city residents, buildings, and infrastructure. Fluctuations in sea levels also affect the water level of the Danė River, which enters the Klaipėda Strait and divides the city into two parts. Therefore, this study aims to determine the past extreme sea level events and their influence on floods in the Danė River within Klaipėda City from 1961 to 2022. For this, the impact of meteorological parameters caused dangerous sea level rises in the Klaipėda Strait, and the following rise of the Danė River was studied. The results show that the annual mean, annual mean maximum, and annual mean minimum water levels in the Klaipėda Strait increased from 1961 to 2022. Also, the number of events where the water level in the Klaipėda Strait was ≥ 100 cm in the Baltic Elevation System was increasing. The increasing frequency of extreme water level events in the Klaipėda Strait puts urban areas at greater risk from Danė River compound floods.

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Abstract

The goals of this study were the calibration of the XBeach model for moderate and weak hydrodynamic conditions in 2D mode and the determination of the volumetric changes induced by them. An evaluation of model performance was made based on the Brier Skill Score (BSS), the visual match of the profile shape (VMS), the absolute volumetric change error (m³/m) and the relative volumetric change error (%). An analysis of accuracy in determining volumetric changes in the dune coast, with XBeach applied, provided an average absolute error in determination of volumetric changes of 4.0 m³/m for a significant storm and 1.5 m³/m for moderate and weak hydrodynamic conditions in a 2D model calibration process. Simulations of morphological changes caused by moderate and weak hydrodynamic conditions for seven timeframes classified into three groups have been run in 2D mode. Within a validation process, the average absolute error in the determination of volumetric changes in the beach was ranging from 0.64 m³/m to 2.42 m³/m depending on the group of hydrodynamic conditions. A high value of the correlation coefficient (R) between the measured and modelled balance of volumetric changes (m3/m) for all timeframes – 0.79 and for the ‘strongest’ group no. 3 – 0.91 were revealed. For the remaining groups, i.e., group no. 1 and no. 2 of hydrodynamic conditions, no such correlation was observed. Furthermore, the temporal analysis of the sum of beach volumes proved that a rising trend was observed over 4 months. Thus, moderate and weak hydrodynamic conditions dominated the accumulation within the area of study. XBeach reflected this trend well, producing a difference between the measured and modelled sum of volumes at the end of the timeframe of 7.27 m³/m, which is close to the volume determination error by the model.

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Abstract

This paper presents the results of a one-year field study on the monsoonal reflective response of the rubble mound breakwater (RMB) of Chabahar Bay, located on the northern coast of the Gulf of Oman, Iran. Measurements show that, in general, the correlation between the reflection coefficient and Iribarren number during the winter monsoon period is more remarkable than that of the summer monsoon period. The difference in wave reflection behavior during monsoonal periods is mainly due to the energy proportion of incoming sea and swell waves. Various characteristic wave periods by means of power- and hyperbolic-law prediction functions are explored to enhance the wave reflection prediction, highlighting the significant performance of negative-moment spectral periods T_m−1 and T_m−2 compared with peak and mean spectral periods. Statistical comparison of the performance of T_m−1 and T_m−2 shows that T_m−2 considerably improves the prediction accuracy for moderated energy waves with bimodal sea and swell climates originating from different directions in the winter monsoon and pre-summer monsoon months. However, the prediction improvement is insignificant for unimodal energetic waves observed during the summer monsoon months. Generally, using T_m−2 increases the accuracy of the preexisting equations in predicting the observations of this study.

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